Jeff

I'm running a diagnostic on this Samsung Tab and there’s this dot array that will flash every 2 seconds and change to a...

In response to @danj - Here is an example of a damaged USB I repaired to get the data off (I know it’s not the cleanest job, but it worked!) I scraped off the coating to reveal traces on the board and tinned them with solder. Then attached the appropriate wires from a USB charger wire that I cut and stripped back. I agree with Dan that this is only to get the data off - I do not use this USB drive anymore because it is so easily damaged.

The original home button cable from the damaged screen can be reused with the new replacement screen. If some heat is used, the backlight layers can be taken apart, starting with the metal plate/mirror which has the home button cable enclosed inside. The process will be similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01ecUhWS... I highly recommend practicing this on a damaged screen first. Depending on what is replaced, the backlight LED power cable will need to be soldered as well. Best of luck!

This is a damaged USB-C port on the bottom of your Switch - It can be replaced but requires advanced hot-air rework: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_conti...-y8u8&feature=emb_logo

Hi @wisteria Just keeping it away from anything metal and anything sharp will render the battery harmless. As long as it’s charge isn’t affected by charging or discharging, it shouldn’t spontaneously light on fire (or cause any other type of harm). Even in these “worst case” environments, it’s extremely rare for a battery to light on fire.

This might sound crazy but is there any chance your paper towels have a metallic pattern printed on them? Any type of small metal embedded into the paper would be super heated by the microwaves and set the paper on fire...

Hi @xinwarrior Based on some research into the ASUS N53 it looks like this touchpad is easily transferred after removing a few surrounding screws.

Hi @derrickk This is the most common symptom of backlight LED failure. Replacing all backlight strips should fix this problem.

Hi @basco In my experience this issue is most likely related to a failed backlight array. Replacing all of the LED backlight strips should fix this problem.

Hi @rbutch If your TV has a T-CONN board it will connect the panel cables and main input board together towards the bottom of the unit. A small board usually only a few inches in each direction.

There is most likely a problem with one or more of the locations the "Downloads" library is trying to access. Try updating the file path for "Downloads" under the properties to a new location.

During this step, there should be a picture of the flip side showing 4 more Philips screws hidden deep inside the headset. Removing those additional 4 screws is critical to getting the headset opened and continuing to the next step.