Stefano Gigante

Hi. I've got from a local seller a new battery for my Macbook, last serial letters VMN. As instructed here, I'm now using...

I've got a Macbook Core Duo. Last numbers and letters of the serial number are: VMN. I've got a cheap chinese battery....

The machine is a Core Duo, last serial numbers RVMN. While I was trying to execute the Fast LCD replacement guide, I was...

Hi! I've got a Macbook Core Duo, last serial number letters RVMN. This morning I tried using Facetime, and the iSight...

I whipped out my good old PSP 2000, date code 7C, serial ending in 276. I noticed however, after some time of use, that...

I've just fixed together my Macbook. The Superdrive was acting up, and the case was bulging. So I redid every connection,...

Hello. I've got a Macboook A1181, last numbers RVMN. I got a new topcase installed, but I couldn't make it flush over the...

Hello. I bought a new LCD Panel for my laptop (Macbook Core Duo, serial ending in #RVMN). However, since I've got buttery...

I own a Macbook, the 2006 model, Macbook Core Duo A1181 (last 4 # of serial are: RVMN). I wanted originally to buy the...

MacBook Santa Rosa/Penryn Upper Case with Keyboard I saw this Macbook part. I own a Macbook, the 2006 model, Macbook Core...

Depends how it’s broken. Did you drop it? Or pull it? If the rail is still intact, you have to carefully open the Joycon, put it back and close it. For that you’ll need absolutely a TriWing (Y head) screwdriver. If the rail is broken, you’ll need a new one. Same thing if it’s the rail on the Switch’s side.

We may need some additional informations. What keyboard is it? Branded? No brand? Wireless? USB? PS/2? All those things may be useful. Have you tried, if it's an USB keyboard, changing USB port? Have you tried, just to play it safe, to connect the keyboard to another PC?

Your device should still be in warranty, even if it's a first gen Nexus... they came out in 2012, and 2013 has yet to end. However your kind of accident has happened lots of times: you may find lots of similar questions with several hints. It happened on many devices, but there are common hints you may use. Also, remembering you'd have to be extra careful with an expensive device, you can try with a pair of thin needle nose pliers, trying carefully to grab the jack. Failing the needle nose pliers, you could try some of this other workarounds: (1) Use a straw, the kind you'd use to sip a drink. Plastic, soft and inexpensive.: cut it so you can "roll" in the socket, then push all the way into and try to move it around. If you're lucky, it should "disengage" the broken tip and the spring keeping the connector pushed on it, so, pushing carefully the straw out, the plug will follow (2) Failing that, but having to apply the utmost care to avoid further damage, you could try applying some fast-drying but strong...

Have you tried with Sugru? Maybe, and I say maybe it may do the trick. I dunno if there's a way to open the toy and replace the rubber string altogether, but that'll be the most effective kind of repair too.

You can try using Wugfresh Nexus Toolkit. It's an automated tool fixing stuff for Nexus devices, starting with the Galaxy Nexus. However, be warned that unlocking your Nexus device will wipe its contents: like you did a factory reset.

First and foremost, I can glean from your question that your unit is an iPhone 4, and not an iPhone 4S. However, you should give us the last four letters and numbers of the serial code. 1. No one can tell that for sure. The only way to know is changing the battery, booting up the unit and tell how it goes. You may also want to clean it more throughly with isopropylic alchol. 2. Not that I know. If you go through the iFixit site, you may see that several key parts of the iPhone 4, including the bezel mount and some of the assembly, are radically different, thus... 3. ... you can't "upgrade" your unit. You could, however, if your current issues are "just" a really short battery life and your unit heating try to fix it by buying a new battery only, and ordering a new logic board only of other troubles arise. It's a safe bet saying that the plunge in water shorted up the battery, and will account for a short battery life and the heating up device (the logic keeps trying to charge a broken down battery). The...

Early troubleshooting coming up: (1) Provide us with the last three letters and numbers of your serial number. You can find it in System Profiler, Hardware menu, printed on the back of your laptop (or behind the battery), or surely on the box it was shipped in. That'll help us gauge what machine you're speaking of (2) Try charging the Macbook with a new power brick. You don't have to buy one... yet. Just ask a friend to let him borrow yours for a couple of hours, or drop into an Apple Store telling you suspect your power cord is broken, you'd like to get it checked and if it works you'll drop there to buy one later (which you actually should do) (3) If your Macbook doesn't charge with the new power cord, try with an SMC and PRAM reset. It's different between the Macbook with a removable battery and the ones without, so we may need your Serial Number to give you detailed instruction. If it still doesn't, go into System Profiler and tell us which data your Macbook gives about the battery (4) If the battery...

Yes, of course yes. It's always unwise working with a powered on device.

I read the comment from pollytintop, and I agree. The proper "rules of engagement" for approaching and fixing water damage involve the complete removal of water and assessment. Sadly, this implies dismantling the water damaged device. Water itself isn't damaging: electricity is. And water reroutes electricity in every point of the iPhone where it's not supposed to go, thus, wrecking havoc with the water logged device. A lenghty stay in a Thirsty Bag, or, lacking that (and only if you can't afford getting one, I'm listing the possible avenues in order of efficiency) a cup filled with silica bags in a dry cupboard , or, failing that again, a cup filled with rice in a dry cupboard is always a good start. Then comes the dismantling: open carefully your device. You'll need a special screwdriver, included in this kit, along with two new, philips headed, screws. Be careful: the iPhone 4S is filled with little, tiny parts. Follow the guide for battery replacement: you're surely going to need a new battery, as...

No, every single A1181 has the same touchpad, that is the one before the Magic Trackpad, so, it has less multouch abilities. The latest A1181 topcase, on an older MacBook, would just add the iTunes Keys of the latest MacBook Pro, but not a Magic Trackpad-like device. If your wife is interested to a full multitouch, she can buy a Magic Trackpad. It works with Bluetooth even on every MacBook able to run at least OS X 10.6.4, so, every A1181 ever built (given at least a Snow Leopard update).