Ben

I think the charger port flex are identical but I need to make sure before I try to solder one on.

Hi guys! Got another Nintendo Switch here, no liquid damage as far as I can tell under microscope, battery connector...

On a USB Ammeter it displays 0.46A and constantly stays there. Opened up device and found battery was pretty much flat....

I know that you can reset it on a Mac with command option P R but does it get reset when the battery is unplugged, OS...

I’ll explain the history of this device. The customer dropped it off at our shop to check and see if the phone can be...

I'm currently doing board level repair on it, replaced the transceiver for cellular service, fixed no service / service...

This phone has been previously liquid damaged and cleaned very well on the logic board. Now the leftover issue is: Service...

Problem description: The phone is stuck in an apple logo boot loop with Blue screen of death cutting it off. I can break...

So I replaced the battery on the same iPhone 4 3 times due to battery swelling, first time was just the battery draining...

So the phone powers on with a DC bench power supply and shows that charging symbol when charger plugged in. Won't charge a...

Faulty replacement battery I’d assume. I recommend contacting seller for a warranty replacement.

You’ll need to get the screen replaced. Unfortunately there’s no cheap way around it. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Early 2015 Display Assembly Replacement MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015) Display Assembly

120 Australian Dollar equals 5,815.44 Indian Rupee That’s roughly how much the rear camera assembly goes for on a 7 plus.

My guess is defective battery. At 1% it should at least be very close to 3.7V or higher. Starting voltage required to boot up system is around 3.7V. Lower than that the iPad should be on the low battery symbol instead.

It is probably the ethernet chip on the PS4’s logic board. Unfortunately these are soldered on and will require micro-soldering to replace that chip. It is replaceable but only by a reputable console repair shop that does board repairs.

Few things to check: (1) Make sure you are running Windows 10 version 1903, also known as the Windows 10 May 2019 Update. You can check this by typing winver in the start menu search bar and hit enter. If it is not on 1903 yet then do the windows update to get to that windows version. (2) Ensure BIOS is up to date (This has already been done as you’ve said) (3) Make sure you are using latest AMD chipset drivers. I think they are called AGESA and there have been quite a few hotfixes in terms of OS stability and drivers for that. (4) Run the ram at non-overclocked / stock speeds (2133/2400 basically disabled ram profile). Sometimes ram overclocks can be unstable due to the motherboard / cpu combo not handling it well without finer tuning of the ram overclock. (5) Use DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) to clean uninstall your Nvidia and any other obsolete graphics drivers. You can download it here. After doing that make sure to install latest nvidia graphics driver.

Have you verified that the replacement LCD is not for the Mini 1 and is for the Mini 2? Those LCDs have a very subtle difference which you can see from the bottom of the LCD display assembly. At the bottom there are two metal rectangle covers that are soldered to the back of the screen. On the mini 2 this will be smaller than a Mini 1 version. So a quick way to see if you got the right screen if the old screen has the same size metal as the new screen. If it’s not the same you’ll notice the difference at a glance. Try reseating the display cable, this one sometimes is not plugged in fully on one side. Remember to always have the battery unplugged when unplugging or plugging in the display cable. If the battery is flat it should at least show you the low battery icon. If not there is a problem with either the display or the power going into the iPad, hopefully not a board-level problem.

That little daughterboard I'm guessing it's for the smart cover sensor? That one is needed so that the iPad doesn't auto-lock itself if you wrap fold the smart cover to the back of the iPad. It’s like what the iPad Air 1, 2, 4,5 and 6 use.

You sure it isn’t part of the wallpaper try another background?

Fan needs to be replaced, had one that would intermittently display that error and replacing the fan fixed it. This is on a HP TPN-C125 general model.

If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.

I honestly do not understand why the back cover is removed from the mid frame, you can remove the mid frame silver plastic with the back cover anyway.

They can’t be both PMI8994 Power Management IC’s I’ve looked at them under an microscope and one is PMI8994 and the other is PM8994.

Check step 3 of this guide: Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Screen Replacement

Unfortunately the connector plugs are different and the cables go in different areas.

No. Different connectors.

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.

I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.

Yeah don't listen to this comment. I replace Macbook Pro glass regularly and this is one of the worst ways to do it. I never replace glass without taking the screen assembly from the MacBook first.

The reason why I always separate the screen assembly from the MacBook is because it's just going to increase the difficulty of taking off the glass so much to the point that you regret that you wasted your time trying this and you could of done it in less time if you took the screen off from the MacBook.