Ben

I think the charger port flex are identical but I need to make sure before I try to solder one on.

Hi guys! Got another Nintendo Switch here, no liquid damage as far as I can tell under microscope, battery connector...

On a USB Ammeter it displays 0.46A and constantly stays there. Opened up device and found battery was pretty much flat....

I know that you can reset it on a Mac with command option P R but does it get reset when the battery is unplugged, OS...

I’ll explain the history of this device. The customer dropped it off at our shop to check and see if the phone can be...

I'm currently doing board level repair on it, replaced the transceiver for cellular service, fixed no service / service...

This phone has been previously liquid damaged and cleaned very well on the logic board. Now the leftover issue is: Service...

Problem description: The phone is stuck in an apple logo boot loop with Blue screen of death cutting it off. I can break...

So I replaced the battery on the same iPhone 4 3 times due to battery swelling, first time was just the battery draining...

So the phone powers on with a DC bench power supply and shows that charging symbol when charger plugged in. Won't charge a...

Have you checked the top panel cover? It sounds like something is shorting the power button in some sort of way as it should not switch on by itself after plugging in the power cable. Most likely the power button spring is bent to somewhere it shouldn’t be. I recommend posting a photo here before trying to bend it if it is. Adding images to an existing question

That MacBook already has a SATA 3 controller, that is embedded with the logic board on a chip called the PCH (Platform Controller Hub or you could say chipset). I assume you are referring to this SATA SSD right? If yes you can install that and reinstall MacOS (additionally do a time machine backup to do transfer) and you’re all set. OWC Aura Pro 6G SSD MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012 SSD Replacement

Keyboard needs to be replaced. If one key is doing this then I’m fairly certain the keyboard has gone bad, and this almost always happens due to liquid damage, I’ve confirmed it about 95% of the time I do keyboard replacement on MacBooks. The keyboard sends data to the trackpad then to the logic board. That one key has a broken circuit trace (likely from corrosion) on the keyboard which is stopping it from identifying that the F key is pressed. MacBook Air 11" Early 2015 Upper Case Replacement MacBook Air 11" (Mid 2013-Early 2015) Upper Case

Either one or more pins are missing on the digitizer connector on the main board less likely as you’ve already checked or the digitizer has become faulty after re-opening. Most likely from either a tear in the cable or crushing the digitizer cable between the glass and the housing when closing it again. There is a part of the cable that needs to be folded inwards before closing or the cable will get damaged.

Usually turn off after 30 seconds indicates board problem or bad HDD. But as you say it’s now staying on I’m leaning on either a dud replacement HDMI Chip (these are quite common depending on where you buy it from). Or the graphics chip APU has gone bad.

Apparently the A1370 screen screen from between 2010-2012 are all compatible.

Have you tried looking for a replacement board? There is a board number usually printed on the PCB.

It will physically fit but it won’t work because the screen is incompatible with each other vice-versa.

Try getting the trackpad cable replaced. The part is relatively cheap and easy to replace. That cable is very common to go bad on any MacBook Pro model in 2015 due to the design where the cable can easily get damaged by debris due to the placement of it being on top of the battery and right under the removable bottom cover. The trackpad cable has an I2C data line which has the data signal from the keyboard going to the trackpad first which goes through that cable, then back to the main board. When that line is cut both the trackpad and keyboard (sometimes it's either or both) will not work. And yes those errors are most likely related to trackpad cable too. Don't take it to apple yet until you've tried replacing the trackpad cable.

"I did NOT replace thermal paste, but as I said, it wasn't loud to begin with before taking it apart." There’s your problem. Thermal paste needs to be replaced with something like arctic silver 5 or equivilent + double check that all thermal pads are present. Other things to check is make sure clamp is not upside down.

The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.

I honestly do not understand why the back cover is removed from the mid frame, you can remove the mid frame silver plastic with the back cover anyway.

They can’t be both PMI8994 Power Management IC’s I’ve looked at them under an microscope and one is PMI8994 and the other is PM8994.

Check step 3 of this guide: Microsoft Surface Pro 5 Screen Replacement

Unfortunately the connector plugs are different and the cables go in different areas.

No. Different connectors.

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

The thickness / coverage of the area available to put the adhesive is plentiful which allows you to use more adhesive than you need. Anyway what I use is red double sided tape as it's adhesive strength is very good and the thickness is good to use in this case. It's called 'PET red double sided transparent tape'.

I think iFixit sells rolls of them which aren't really expensive at all.