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The Xbox 7MN-0001 Wireless Controller, was manufactured by Microsoft Corporation. It is the first generation Xbox One controller released, but has since been discontinued. This controller has since been superseded by Models 1697/1698 and Model 1708. While this controller is commonly used with the Xbox One, it can also be used for PC gaming.

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3.5mm female jack problems?

I recently encountered a problem where I get static white noise in my headset. The controller in question is an Xbox One Elite controller.

I have trying multiple headsets with the controller and both have static. I also have my plain controller that also has a 3.5mm jack with both headsets and it has no static at all. So i can conclude that the problem lies with my Elite controller.

I have tried using the rechargable battery pack, pack with chord, batteries, batteries with chord, and chord no batteries. All have the same static white noise.

Is there a way to fix/replace the 3.5mm jack or is there any other solution to my problem?

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I have the same problem with my controller and i cant hear in one of my controllers and in the other my in game voice chat does not work like i can hear other just my mic does not work I've tried 3 different headsets all of them did not work so then i tried my friends controller and it did work i need to find a way to fix it because those controllers are not cheap you know?

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I can hear them but they can’t hear me do you know how to fix that

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Hi,

It may be that the 3.5mm socket has either a dry solder joint connection on the motherboard, has become slightly loose on the board due to removal / insertion of plug over a period of time or the internal springs in the socket which connect to the plug have lost tension.

In any event the controller will have to be opened for the problem to be diagnosed and repaired.

Here is a link to a video which shows the disassembly of your controller. If you stop the video at 2:15 minutes you can see the socket (I think- not sure if left or right component) on the circuit board, (on the board at the back, in the area just above the USB socket on the front board in the picture). Looking at the picture I cannot tell if it is a surface mounted or a through hole soldered type, so you will have to determine the problem once you get it open. Test if the socket is loose, by very gently trying to move it. It should be not moving at all, if it does 'rock' the connection is loose and will have to be remade. If the connection is solid the socket will have to be replaced as it cannot be repaired.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJ3qnxTi...

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So now what i have to buy a set of tools just to fix a broken headphone jack? If only microsoft manufactured reliable and actually good products.

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Yes, tools are required to do repairs, that's life. Don't like it, buy a new controller and stop complaining.

Amazing how society today wants everything handed to them

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Yeah. Amazing how society today wants quality products

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Had this exact same problem with 2 controllers that are less than one month old. If I wind tape around the top of the headphone plug and around the left grip to 'pull' the jack over the left this works with both controllers, but that's uncomfortable and I have to remove tape to put controllers on charging dock. I was looking here for a more permanent fix to avoid sending controllers away for who knows how long when my son has only had the system for 4 weeks, yes I could do this repair described above but shouldn't have to - these units are not fit for purpose. Microsoft need to fix the design flaw and recall these units to allow swap-outs of the faulty products in UK retail stores.

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try 3 different controllers with the same problem

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Same both sons both controllers no longer the aux port works. I'd like to tell at them for being too rough but they swear they have not been. Now they fight over the one adapter we have. Which are now not being made anymore but are made way better.

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Yup. I was having the same issue. After opening the remote I discovered that the jack only sits on the motherboard (no soldiers) and what has happen is the prons on the jack don't make contact with the motherboard as before. I removed the jack and pryied the connectors out so it would make a better connection. But the problem continued. Only one side of my headset plays audio (if I rock the headset jack side to side to find a sweetspot ) but any movement of the jack stops the connection. End result = time for a new remote and be more carefull putting stress on the jack next time

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I've given this answer elsewhere on here, but here goes anyway...As another reply states, the socket just sits (loosely) on the circuit board. This allows movement which wears out the contacts on the board. I tried all sorts of things and eventually got a length of eight core cable (Ethernet cable would work) - you only need seven cores - and soldered it on to the board and the socket, extending the socket outside the controller. It's a bit Heath Robinson, but it works and saves buying a new controller. If you're going to attempt this then a couple of tips:

1). Once the socket is out of the unit, the contacts can fall out of it, particularly when soldering. I suggest some good tape to hold them in before you start.

2). Test all of the connections. The back two pairs (furthest from the socket hole) detect the presence of the plug in the socket. One pair is normally open and the other is normally closed, so don't assume that a short is a bad thing. Test the socket first to familiarise yourself with how it works with and without a plug.

3). If you're still reading and understand all this then give it a go. If not then I suggest you don't attempt it.

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What is the pinout please? Cant find anywhere online

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