I have the same problem everything is replace coil , condenser points , all air gaps are good clean the contact points but still no good blue spark...any more suggestions you all small engines guru .
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Π Π΅ΠΏΡΡΠ°ΡΠΈΡ: 860,3ΠΊ
1,4ΠΊ
974
2,4ΠΊ
@charliebrown39 couple more things for you to check:
Check the air gap between the flywheel magnets and the laminations of an externally mounted coil or module.
Check the flywheel magnets for the proper strength using this rough test. Hold a screwdriver at the extreme end of the handle with the blade down, move the blade to within 3/4 inch (19.05 mm) of the magnets. If the screwdriver blade is attracted to the magnets, the magnetic strength is satisfactory.
Examine the stator components.
Check the ignition cam for roughness.
Check the movable point arm that rests on the ignition cam for wear.
Check the spring steel on the point assembly for evidence of excessive heat.
Check contact points for wear. If they are pitted or burned, this is an indication that the condenser is not functioning properly. If any of the above are faulty, replace accordingly.
After the points are replaced and engine is retimed, be sure to clean the points with lint free paper. An engine will not run smoothly if the points are improperly set or coated with even a small quantity of oil, etc.
Examine the coil and lamination assembly (either internal or external) for cracks in the insulation or other damage which would cause shorts or leakage of current. Make sure the electrical leads are intact, especially where they enter the coil.
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Where are you checking for spark? When you crank the engine, does it turn over? Make sure your battery is charged. Trickle charge it at 2 amps for 24 hours if not charged (this is assuming it does not turn over). The electric current runs from the battery, via the ignition switch to the ignition coil. On newer vehicles the ignition coil and distributor can be intertwined in one unit and this is controlled by the onboard "computer" (ECM). On older vehicles check the wire that runs from the ignition coil and hold it within an eighth of an inch from the engine block(metal part of block; ground). Another person has to crank the motor while you are doing this. Observe a little spark which will tends to arc to the ground (the block in this case). If you do not observe the spark you have no current coming from the ignition coil. In that case, check the wires running to and from the ignition coil. You may have a defective ignition switch, ignition coil, ecm or a break in the wires running to and from. It just takes trial and error to isolate the problem. If when cranking, check the wires running to the ignition coil with a multimeter set to volts...(most meters set to ohms may blow because the current level may be out of their range). You should get a reading while crankin the engine. If you do not, check the wire running from the ignition switch to the coil. If the wire has continuity you have a defective ignition switch. The most common cause would be a blown fuse, or the wire coming from the ignition coil. Google your vehicle engine to find the specific location of you ignition coil wiring location. The principles are the same regardless of vehicle or engine. Hope this helps. Good luck!
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@charliebrown39 what engine and what have you checked?
ΠΈΠ· oldturkey03