Сложность
Просто
Шаги
5
Необходимое время
10 - 15 мин.
- Controller Шагов: 3
- Battery Шагов: 2
Рекомендуемое руководство ученика
Это руководство стало результатом напряженной работой наших удивительных студентов, и сотрудники iFixit посчитали его очень крутым.
Введение
Use this guide to replace the 3.7 lithium-ion battery inside the DualShock 4.
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Using the Phillips #00 Screwdriver, remove the four 6.0 mm screws securing the rear cover to the controller.
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Beginning with the left shoulder:
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Pinch the left shoulder of the controller to introduce an opening.
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Wedge a plastic opening tool into the opening and slide it up towards the joystick.
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Pull down on the plier to crack open the casing.
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Repeat these steps for the right shoulder.
Shoulders are where L1/L2/R1/R2 are, not the %#*@ handles. Confusing instructions.
Quick tip: Be VERY careful at this step not to dislodge the tiny spring attached to the L2/R2 buttons. While removing the cover, it's easy to pull off either L2/R2 button. Inadvertently pulling off either button will also remove the tiny spring as well. While not too difficult to reassemble, it's not obvious where the spring goes as the spring is almost completely hidden along the side of the button (on the inside).
I just successfully completed analog stick replacements for two controllers. I completed the first repair without any trouble but managed to dislodge (and almost lose) the spring on the second time around. Needless to say, I spent some time trying to figure out where the spring is supposed to go (no photos of this anywhere). By sheer luck, I figured it out on my own. :)
Good luck and take your time--especially the first time!
couldn't have posted pics for me? :D
Golden tip but I would add a thing or two.
Most probably both triggers R1&R2 will stay in lower half of the pad case with springs hanging there.
You must take them of their lower case sockets before assembly and fit them bellow L1&L2
When you feel click when fitting them and spring works like on normal assembled pad you're done.
If thats not the case do not try to assemble lower casing half as triggers will not work properly.
Simon -
if you lost the springs unfortunately, the triggers would still work but it is harder to get to the precise digital press. In other words you will have hard time to create a light press than a hard press.
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Wedge a plastic opening tool into the case-splittings and pull down to crack open the casing near the following buttons:
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Share button
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Options button
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Split the plastic covers of the controller apart, taking note that they will still be attached by circuit board ribbons.
You can't just pull the casing halves apart. There is a plastic bar that is part of the casing and separates the L1 and R1 buttons from the L2 and R2 buttons. To get this loose, pull the casing outward perpendicular to the L and R buttons until you can slide the L2 and R2 buttons from behind the plastic bar.
SO yesterday replaced the thumb stick on my controller, and now the R2 button is stuck, know any way to remedy this?
I know you put a warning, but I lost the grey reset button extension. Any idea where to get a replacement part?
Hey, not even sure when you wrote this, but wanted to share my solution for this problem. I lost one of my reset button rubber pieces when I was doing a different repair, and found that a standard bamboo skewer is just about the perfect diameter to function as a replacement. Just cut it to the proper length and you should be able to get it in there and get your reset functionality back.
tcbrekke -
I've removed and changed all buttons all seemed ok but now the options and share button don't work, as in when I pressed them down there is no longer a click (bounce) I'm certain it's back in the correct place and I don't think they can be put the wrong way up, does anyone have any advice please :)
My share button stopped 'clicking'. When I stripped the controller down I noticed a small copper coloured dimple on the motherboard was depressed instead of proud like the one for the options button. With bluetack I was able to pull it out but each time I tested it with my finger it clicked once and stayed depressed. I don't think there is a permanent solution to this as it's probably metal fatigue or similar so i put a tiny bit of blue tack overy the dimple so the plunger could push that bit further and hopefully pull it out each time. Seems to work as I reassemble the controller. Fingers crossed it holds out a while! I'd love to know if someone else had a different solution.
The5HD -
When reassembling: If, like me, your R2/L2 buttons stayed with the bottom of the controller when you took it apart, it will be impossible to reassemble and get the tiny springs back in place.
To remedy, remove the buttons, and attach them, with the springs correctly placed, to the top of the controller. There are two tiny grooves, one on the button, and one on the controller top, into which the spring fits.
Jeff, we owe you a six pack for this comment.
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Detach the motherboard ribbon connecting the two sides of the controller by pulling it straight out with your fingers.
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After the two halves are separated, place the top of the controller off to the side.
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Using the blunt forceps, remove the battery plug by gently rocking the forceps side-by-side to loosen the plug.
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After removal of the plug from the motherboard, the battery can be lifted off of the controller.
For the replacement battery I found that the Turnigy 2000mAh 1S 1C Lipo w/ 2 Pin JST-PH worked perfectly while also being a budget option at only $2.54 USD before shipping. However ONLY INSTALL AFTER CHANGING THE POLARITY OF THE CONNECTOR, this can be done with a pin or craft knife with relative ease. After doing this the controller has doubled in battery life. It required no modification to the controllers internals only extra care to ensure the longer cables didn’t get pinched in reassembly.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Команда
Cal Poly, Team 6-21, Maness Winter 2014 Member of Cal Poly, Team 6-21, Maness Winter 2014
CPSU-MANESS-W14S6G21
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Комментариев: 9
My Dualshock 4 wont turn on after the battery replacement.
Any idea on why this happened?
have you tried to charge it?
The only replacement battery option listed in the 'relevant parts' section of the guide is for a used battery. Here is a a link to a new replacement battery for those that don't want to do this again in a few months. It is higher capacity than the OEM battery (1300mAh instead of 1000mAh) so it will last longer. Hope this helps!
My samsung galaxy tab 2 7inch screen goes black help
I found a replacement battery here, you have to mod the tray a little, but it works like a champ and doubles the life.
The x button on my controller want working properly so I ordered new rubber mounts. I followed the guide, taking my time to make sure I didn't damage anything.
With the new rubber in place I put everything back together and the controller was working fine but now I've realised it doesn't charge. The battery goes completely dead and switches off. If I then connect it with usb cable it doesn't charge but will turn on the controller for maybe 10 seconds before switching off again.
Anyone any idea what is going on? Thanks.
my controller is not starting today
Did this fix to the letter, controller works now but the light bar does not and I'm unsure if it charges. It shows it's fully charged. Could it be that the micro-usb connection is frapped?
