Введение

Use this guide to replace the upper case, including the backlit keyboard, but without replacing the TrackPad.

  • Before proceeding, power down your machine. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

  • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

  • The special screwdriver needed to remove the ten 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

These pentalobe screw sizes can't possibly be right - not even close. Should they perhaps be 0,8 mm and 1,2 mm?

Rulle Boer - Ответить

The screw sizes refer to the length of the shaft, not the diameter of the head or socket. P5 is the standard pentalobe size for all these screws, regardless of length.

I agree that the notation is a little confusing. I think it's because, with standard sized hardware like for your house, you have shaft diameter (say 1/8" or 3mm) and shaft length (say 3" or 7.5cm). So we're programmed to think of small numbers like that as diameter. But in this case, they're length.

budpegasus - Ответить

Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

allison - Ответить

Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

bwgvanderveer - Ответить

I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

ola m - Ответить

Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

andrew - Ответить

It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

Larry Smith - Ответить

tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

Thank you

ilyabuhov - Ответить

Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

anne uhlir - Ответить

im looking for a Logic Board for a

Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

Any help is appreciated.

Jamie Comstock - Ответить

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
  • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

Jeannie Crowley - Ответить

When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

Gabriel - Ответить

As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.
  • As a precaution against accidental discharge or shock, disconnect the battery connector from the logic board.

  • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect the battery from the logic board.

  • Be sure to pull the connector horizontally toward the battery, and not straight up from the Air, or you may damage the socket on the logic board.

The clear plastic tab is missing on mine. Whoever worked on my laptop before me seems to have ripped it off. Now what?

mjmorawski - Ответить

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector upward out of its socket on the I/O board.

Be really careful when reconnecting the I/O board cable connector. The deep connector has a tendency to bend the pins with very little force applied. If this is the case, check to see if the gold pins are bent down, you may only see one row of gold pins vertically, or none.

They can be lifted with a flat head screwdriver bit. Gently slide the bit under the pins, this may need a small amount of pressure depending on how far they are bent down. Lever the pins back to the vertical position.

I found attempting to insert this connector was easier while holding the MacBook on a slight angle to see down the pins as I aligned the connector.

Another way to tell if the I/O connector cable is in place correctly is to run an Apple Hardware Test. Hold down the letter D while booting the mac and follow the prompts. If no issues found, you're all good.

A common error for a misconnected I/O Connector is 4SNS/1/C0000008:TS0P--124. This means the system cannot read the palm temperature sensor. Fix the cable and you're good

Ben - Ответить

Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.
  • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the top of the fan.

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The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
  • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

  • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the tip of a spudger to pry upward on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

  • Remove the I/O board cable.

This step can be skipped, not required for removing the fan.

yurkennis - Ответить

Agreed, there is no need to remove this cable.

David Robillard - Ответить

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

It is not necessary to remove the fan cable.

ezequielaceto - Ответить

It's certainly necessary to remove the fan cable, as you won't be able to remove the fan in Step 10 if you don't!

Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

If you break the ZIF socket, it could be a bad day.... It happened to me. Not one to throw in the towel, I fashioned a hold-down with a length of paperclip held in place by the nearby screw. So far, it is working like a charm. Hopefully, it continues to work and this helps some other poor soul.

Lester Newsom - Ответить

I also haven't removed the fan cable. No need for this step IMHO. Just let the fan on the side instead of completely remove it.

David Robillard - Ответить

Trouble putting the cable back in the ZIF socket?

Get some electrical tape and cut it down the the width of the ribbon cable fold over one end to create a pull tab. Now place the tape onto the ribbon to give yourself something to pull either in or out as needed. Then you can peel off the tape.

Don't forget the unlatch the connector first!

Source: Re-connecting fan ribbon cable

Adam Banko - Ответить

Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
  • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

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Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.
  • Lift the fan out of the upper case and carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove it from the Air.

Would like more detail about removing the fan cable. Looks like it just pulls out to the right. I thought I ripped it off.

kennyavis81 - Ответить

On re-installation of fan cable cable no tool required - just wiggle it in from from side/above (side force aided by bend of cable)

Super easy - my first computer repair..hope all is well

paul deacon - Ответить

The ribbon connector held in the socket by a tiny square on top, which enters a square hole in the top of the socket. An xacto blade used to pry the top of the connector gently up will help release the connector.

peteragries - Ответить

This helped me no end, I agree with the people above that it's worth explaining how the ribbon cable is held in and that

it's simple to remove and reinstall. Thank you for a brilliant guide.

leesparey - Ответить

Year, from the top, the ribbon appears to be just the plastic strip. Copper connectors are on the bottom but at first glance it looks like I pulled the connector off the ribbon. Mine pulled straight out away from the connector, no upward angle needed or desired.

Allen - Ответить

Question: Is the ribbon connector a part of the fan, so that the new fan has its own ribbon connector? Apologies if this sounds trivial, but I could not tell from the wording/picture.

jerry bennett - Ответить

Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
  • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

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Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.
  • Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the corner of the Air to disconnect it from its socket, using the tip of a spudger to help push the connector out of its socket.

  • Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

Mine was very reluctant... couldn't get any purchase with a spudger, had to use flat tweezers to get enough grip on the cable. Exerted slowly increasing pull, but when it came out, it broke loose suddenly.

Allen - Ответить

My Macbook Air (2013) didn't have this cable.

Phillip Remaker - Ответить

Mine too, only a slot where a cable was passing,

Gianni Borghesan -

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

  • De-route the left speaker cable from its retainer on the I/O board.

On re-assembly, I haven't gotten the speaker or microphone to work. Must have broken the connection, but it looks fine. Ran the hardware diagnostic (holding down "D" at start up) and got the following error code - 4MOT/4/40000002:Exhaust-0

Anyone know what this means.

Daniel Thomas - Ответить

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

  • Pry up from beneath the wires.

Be very careful: it is quite easy to accidentally pry the whole cable connector from the I/O board.

Dallas Guy - Ответить

What do you do if this happens? Buy a whole new I/O board?

adamwitz -

I agree, I found this to be the only critical step of the entire disassembly procedure: I snapped the microphone connector socket off the board despite applying a relatively gentle pull on the cables. Fortunately I did this on a dead MBair from which I wanted to get the display, but now I'm afraid of doing the same damage while installing the display on the target MBair!

Any tricks/tips would be most welcome.

Lorenzo

Lorenzo Cangiano - Ответить

Following up on my previous post I'd like to share how I eventually circumvented the risk of snapping the microphone connector socket on the I/O board. Instead of attempting to disconnect the mic (as suggested in this guide, step 14), I did the following: a. remove the battery, b. detach the right speaker, c. detach the microphone from the outer case (for steps b and c I followed the iFixit guide on how to replace a MacbookAir microphone). The advantage is that the microphone can now remain safely connected to the I/O board. Of course when reassembling the mac one has to reverse these extra steps (the microphone can be easily reattached to the case as it has a sticky side). I would strongly advise iFixit to revise this guide accordingly!

Lorenzo Cangiano -

I don't think this step is necessary if you aren't seeking to fully remove the I/O board - if you are seeking only to remove the heatsink, you can skip this step, leave this delicate cable attached, then in the next couple steps you'll end up "flipping" the board out of the way, while leaving this cable connected.

coopermarcus - Ответить

Maybe I just lucked out but removing the mic cable was about the same effort as the left speaker cable. I wasn't ready to try Lorenzo's workaround above without a photo guide, so took my chances. Your mileage may vary.

Allen - Ответить

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Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
  • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

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Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.
  • Carefully lift the I/O board from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

When following these instructions in reverse, and reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to carefully check and adjust the alignment of the ports on the board with the holes in the case - it is especially obvious if the headphone port is mis-aligned with the case.

coopermarcus - Ответить

Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:
  • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Three 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Two 2.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Be careful when screwing in again not to overtighten, the plastic of the battery breaks easily with tightening.

Mike Dacre - Ответить

When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.
  • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the four exposed lithium polymer cells.

  • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

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Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use your spudger to help pull the cable out of its socket.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Pry up from beneath the cables.

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Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket. While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket. Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.
  • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

  • While holding the lock away from the socket, use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable from its socket.

  • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

Regarding the second photo on step 22, I believe the placement of the spudger is incorrect. If the second photo's purpose is to demonstrate the placement of the spudger described in the second bullet--"...use the tip of a spudger and your fingers to gently remove the display data cable..."-- then such placement could lead to damaging the connector. View this annotated screenshot to see what I'm trying to convey: https://www.evernote.com/shard/s4/sh/1f5....

Christopher Fernandes - Ответить

I agree, I used tweezers to pull it gently and it worked beautifully

Gian Carlo -

Agree. Use tweezers.

sdcsoup -

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna cable connectors up and off their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

When reconnecting, how will I know which cable connects to the connectors?

Ringo CoC - Ответить

Fits oneway only. See length of the cable connectors

yuroen - Ответить

I put a small piece of red tape on the right wire to identify.

kcunningham - Ответить

Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.
  • Gently de-route the antenna cables from the slot cut into the logic board.

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Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 2.85 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.
  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

  • Pull the drive straight out of its socket and remove it from the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

Warning: there may be adhesive keeping the SSD in place. i got 1 with, and 1 without, both slightly different models (but still the same model name, A1466 )

divinity76 - Ответить

Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
  • Remove the six 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

Please Please Please remember to re-attach your antenna cables if you are replacing the upper case with a new or refurbished one. They have a way of slipping under the logic board.

Timothy Button - Ответить

These screws are easily stripped. If you accidentally push too hard, you will strip the screw when re-attaching. If that happens, get a pair of needle nose pliers and gently work the screw out taking care not to damage the board.

Timothy Button - Ответить

My screws were 4.xx mm

Gabe - Ответить

These screws are actually 3.6 mm T5 Torx. Please fix :)

Doc Halstater - Ответить

I’ll second this observation.

sjosefw -

When putting the logic board back, make sure the speaker wire isn't trapped under it

Shiv Sikand - Ответить

Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.
  • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the antenna cable retainer and left clutch hinge to the upper case.

These are T9-sized torx screws, not T8.

Hanii Puppy - Ответить

This is good to know. I think I need to order a screwdriver set - all I have is the pentalobe and one other that came with my SSD replacement kit.

forestsprite -

I also had T9 screws on my device.

I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. The screws are quite tight so it´s easier to loosen them while the case is lying flat on the surface. This procedure comes in handy in Step 34 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

wolfgang07 - Ответить

Mine were T8 screws, but I was able to use a T9 torx with pressure and that worked.

kcunningham - Ответить

Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.
  • Push the antenna cable retainer away slightly and remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case.

"remove the 3 mm T5 Torx screw securing the end of the heat sink to the upper case" -- an optional step when detaching components from upper case for cleaning, eg after a liquid spilled to keyboard.

yurkennis - Ответить

Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.
  • Carefully remove the logic board assembly from the upper case, minding any cables that may get caught.

  • Hold the antenna cables out of the way as you lift the heat sink end of the logic board out of the upper case.

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Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.
  • Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

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Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.
  • Remove the inner two 4.9 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right display hinge to the upper case.

  • We intentionally have you leave the third screw in to aid in future steps.

Again, these are T9 screws, not T8.

Hanii Puppy - Ответить

Dear all,

on my Air I dropped water and now the display looks without backlight... I can type with no issue, as well the backlight of the keyboard is working fine, audio too but the display doesn't show the light also if boosted at top. What's happened?

Thanks,

sev7en - Ответить

I also had T9 screws on my device.

Like in Step28 I found it helpful to loosen the 3rd screw of the hinge already a TINY bit. Comes in handy in Step 33 where you have to hold the case perpendicular with one hand, while unscrewing this screw with the other hand.

wolfgang07 - Ответить

Does anyone know if it will work without the display assembly all together? I just want to remove it and plug into an external monitor.

Andrew White - Ответить

I recommend to loosen outward screws at this step, so it is easier to completely unscrew them on the next step.

yurkennis - Ответить

Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.
  • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

  • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

During reassembly, once the two screws are in the left and right hinges, close the laptop and flip it over so that the display is down on the table. Run your fingers along the edge of the laptop where the display meets the lower assembly. If it is not flush, loosen the two screws in the hinges slightly and adjust, then retighten.

Ethan Cross - Ответить

Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.
  • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

  • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

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Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.
  • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

  • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case. Remove the right speaker from the upper case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the right speaker from the upper case.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case. Remove the left speaker from the upper case.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  • Remove the left speaker from the upper case.

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the left side of the upper case. Remove the microphone from the upper case.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone away from the left side of the upper case.

  • Remove the microphone from the upper case.

  • Upper case remains.

My microphone appears slightly different, featuring a ribbon cable which is difficult to re-route when re-assembling.

Under no circumstances try to pull the microphone out using any pulling motion on the cable, as the microphone assembly will come apart in two pieces (as mine did), and will most likely not function on re-assembly (as mine doesn't).

Goth70 Fuzed - Ответить

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the rear edge of the Air.

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While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.
  • While carefully lifting the keyboard ribbon cable with one hand, use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

I was hoping there would be a way to take the keyboard apart after step 41. I have a shorted power switch I was hoping to try and clean. $250 to replace the upper case on a Mac that's worth $550 if working and $250 as parts doesn't make sense. Super fun to take this apart though!

allison - Ответить

i need just to try to clean the keyboard cable socket, i need to follow all 40 steps or i can jump something?

dav - Ответить

Remove the following seven screws:
  • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Six 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the trackpad to the upper case.

    • One 1.4 mm T5 Torx set screw from its tapped hole near the front edge of the upper case.

  • During reassembly, do not over-tighten the set screw, as the button will cease to click at a certain point. Adjust the set screw until the movable side of the trackpad has minimal play.

I found that the solo T5 for step 41 can be stripped easily. I used a T6 bit making sure to press down firmly before unscrewing.

Christopher Fernandes - Ответить

I think these are phillips #000. I tried a cheap eye-glass repair phillips on these with little luck. I ended having to buy a $26 craftsman set to get a #000 phillips, but what a difference it made.

elijahbuck - Ответить

This is the info I needed! Thanks.

forestsprite -

Carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.
  • Carefully lift the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by lifting it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.

  • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

  • The upper case remains.

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Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

51 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

David Hodson

Участник с: 13.04.2010

129 323 Репутация

Автор 158 руководств

Комментариев: 13

question for anyone...just did step 14, and accidentally pried the whole microphone cable box out of the board. Any way to put that back in or did i just lose microphone capability?

adamwitz - Ответить

You can resolder it back on or carefully use a hot-air rework station and Kapton tape to protect the surrounding area.

applerepairshop -

This guide is truly SPOT-on!!

I went to my local Fry's Electronics and purchased a Pro's Kit branded "Consumer Electronic Equipment Repair Kit" that had all the necessary bits and tools needed for US$35.

No need to spend $250 for a new upper case, I figured: what did I have to loose?

I found a brand new keyboard $45.95 (included priority shipping) from MCCComputers.com

Steps: Remove keyboard:: CAREFULLY, remove all #000 Philips head screws around the outside edge of the keyboard on the logic board side of top case. Then, i started at one end, four keys at a time and started rocking around the four corners and pressing firmly in sections (from the side where you usually type on the keys, inward) until the rivets started popping out. MAKE SURE YOU ARE DOING THIS IN AN ENVIRONMENT THAT IS CLEAN and SMOOTH SURFACES. They go everywhere!

Reassembly:use 3M #77 adhesive spray on the aluminum casing to reattach and make up for lost rivets. Snap in rivets with flat end of T-15 bit and screw-in edge screws.

TuckerLM - Ответить

Step 9

On reassembly with a new upper case I spent a long time trying to replace the red-circled screw to hold the fan. After a while I figured out that the new case I purchased from IFIXIT had a small screw already inserted in the socket. Once I removed this extra part everything went smoothly.

wlnem - Ответить

Can i change a Uppercase (2012, Mainboard defect, Keyboard WITH Backlight, monitor OK) with the uppercase of my MB Air 2011 (NO Backlight, Monitor with Scratches)

Wanna have Backlite Keys. ;-)

Schalt Klaue - Ответить

nobody ever testing it?

Schalt Klaue - Ответить

Most excellent directions, worked for me. Thank you.

Ken Peterson - Ответить

I am replacing the backlight keyboard on a mid-2011 Air and inadvertainly knocked off the resistor(?) that is immediately adjacent to the backlight cable socket on the logic board. Is this critical; is there a fix; or do I need to get another logic board?

Thanks, Ken

Ken Cline - Ответить

Just finished… very good guide… takes longer than an hour, for first time anyway. You have to be careful and pay attention. Also, the backlit keyboard costs $17 and new battery $65 both on amazon. Everything works great, like new… however, the keyboard back light is much dimmer and has unevenly lit keys all over the keyboard… wondering if that’s related to the cheap keyboard or something else… any thoughts let us know, thanks!

Gabriel Solnica - Ответить

This guide worked great. If you just want to replace the keyboard, skip steps 41 & 42 and have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLbasVD6...

Uwe Schmock - Ответить

I accidentally caused a small Bent/cut and scratched at the keyboard ribbon cable edge at the trackpad while trying to remove the retainers. So now some keys are not responding. Is there any way to strip/so something to that ribbon cable to get good connection or do i need to replace the whole keyboard.

Tom Mathew - Ответить

The clear instructions with pictures were spot on. Also, the comments posted by others under each instruction were very helpful. Author David Hodson did a great job and I would recommend his instructions to anyone not afraid to take on this kind of technical repair. This format for following along is miles above trying to watch Utube videos while trying to do intricate, detailed work. No comparison. Great job David!

lhillmike - Ответить

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