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Введение

This guide will go over how to remove the screen/display on the Microsoft Surface Pro 5, also known as the Microsoft Surface Pro (2017).

  1. Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.
    • Before you begin, discharge the Surface Pro's battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally damaged during the repair.

    • The display is strongly glued to the frame of the device.

    • To remove the display, first soften the adhesive by applying heat. You can use a heat pad, heat gun, or iOpener. In a pinch, a hair dryer can also work.

    • Be careful when using a heat gun, as too much heat can permanently damage the display and/or battery.

    • Steadily and evenly heat the perimeter of the display until it's too hot to touch, and try to maintain that temperature for several minutes.

  2. Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame. If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.
    • Use a suction cup or an iSclack to pull up on the glass and create a slight gap between the glass and the metal frame.

    • If your display is badly cracked, a suction cup may not adhere. It may help to first cover the display with a layer of packing tape. Alternatively, you can superglue your suction cup to the display.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Slide the pick around the sides and bottom of the display to cut the adhesive. Apply more heat as needed.

    • Work carefully—the glass is thin and will crack easily if you try to force it.

    • Separate the top edge last. There are antennas on both sides, so be careful not to damage them. Use more heat or a bit of isopropyl alcohol to help weaken the adhesive.

    The screen switch out took me over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix. As suggested here, my broken screen shattered even more despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added greatly to the time needed to fix. I found it helpful to work to separate the screen from the adhesive so that the adhesive remained behind and acted as a protective layer for the antennae. Once the glass was off, I went back and removed the glass shards from the adhesive with a plastic spudger and only replaced the adhesive that I had removed adding new adhesive to the gaps which worked well.

    Lauren Alvarado - Ответить

  3. Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool. Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the smaller ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool.

    • Disconnect the smaller ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

  4. Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove. Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.
    • Pry up the metal shield covering the larger ribbon cable port using the plastic opening tool and remove.

    • Disconnect the larger ribbon cable by prying up with the nylon spudger.

    There is a small battery logo near the battery on the motherboard , it looks like a battery out of juice logo, you want to short the two parts of the logo together (so that the red led next to it turns off) so that the battery isnt powering the motherboard anylonger so that you dont blow backlight or any other circuts

    aaron stevenson - Ответить

    I’d love for this to be true, but I’ve searched very thoroughly and I don’t see it. Checked the Surface Pro 4 and SP6 as well. AFAIK there’s no way to disconnect the battery. Just wasn’t designed to be serviced at all.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s there and it works! Thanks!

    Jay Bremner - Ответить

    • Remove the screen from the rest of the device .

    • To replace the adhesive securing the screen, carefully remove any old adhesive from both the device and the back of the display. Clean and prep the surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth, swiping the cloth in one direction (not back and forth). Apply a strong double-sided tape, such as 2 mm Tesa 61395.

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Caleb Granch

Участник с: 02.10.2017

440 Репутация

Автор 2 руководств

Команда

Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017 Участник Cal Poly, Team S15-G3, Livingston Fall 2017

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F17S15G3

3 членов

Автор 22 руководств

Комментариев: 21

Hello Caleb, I am having trouble sourcing a replacement screen. Do you have any suggestions?

Cameron Wells - Ответить

There are china ones on eBay now.

Homer D -

Why remove the ribbon cables from the motherboard side (where you have to pry off covers) and not from the LCD? Also, do the covers need to be replaced?

Homer D - Ответить

I helped remove the LCD. No technical reason other than ease of access. It was easier to reach the connection points on the motherboard than on the LCD screen. The screen doesn’t lift up very far, making it tough to get at those connections on the screen. But either way should work fine.

The covers don’t need to be replaced. They are thin metal and are held in place by the small tabs you see around the edges. Those covers were fairly pliable, robust enough to handle lifting them off. Just don’t go folding them like a piece of paper :)

Paul Manzer -

After replacing the LCD + Digitizer Assembly I have no backlight. The Screen is responsive to touch and does display but you have to hold it at a certain angle to see anything the screen is so dim. Any suggestions for why the backlight may not be working? I reattached the old display and the backlight doesn’t work on it either anymore. I’m hoping that there is just an issue with the LCD Cable…

Joe Setterbo - Ответить

I have the same problem. No back light!

Benjamin Ille -

my screen has these “internal cracks” touchscreen works just the screen looks cracked but isnt.

Aamin Ojha - Ответить

like phyycally cracked

Aamin Ojha - Ответить

Hey author, you might want to mention that if you insert the pick or credit card any further than about 5mm on lower edge of the screen, you can probably kiss it goodbye. The bottom edge bezel is less than half as wide as the other three sides and far more vulnerable (there is a tissue paper thin ribbon cable with about 30 conductors under the leftmost of the the three pieces of black tape).

In the garbage it goes.

Milk Manson - Ответить

I fractured my screen in manner that the top was not able to come off with the rest of the screen. I understand there are antenas stuck to the adhesive, so I can't just remove the adhesive. Is there anyway out of this mess?

Ramses Angles - Ответить

If you haven’t ripped off the antennae from below the adhesive you can still use a plastic spuger to remove the adhesive from the antenae if necessary. I actually did my best to leave the adhesive to use again where there wasn’t broken glass stuck to it. In that way the adhesive protected the antennas which I hadn’t ripped off plus I didn’t have to reapply adhesive all the way around the edge. Then, I just went back with a plastic spuger and very carefully removed the adhesive from on top of the antennae with great success before adding adhesive where necessary. Good luck!

Lauren Alvarado -

The iOpener did not work for me but a heat gun loosened the adhesive very well.

curnutteb - Ответить

Upon the reinstall of the new screen, is new adhesive required? If so, where does one source this - not listed in the parts store (after a search for Surface Pro)?

Jesse Espe - Ответить

I partially added new adhesive to areas where I had to remove adhesive for my glass shattering. I actually used double sided sticky tape of the proper thickness from a craft store like Michael’s and it worked just fine in combination with the old adhesive I left on. Sealed up nice. If you’ve removed all of the adhesive, I recommend adding some so your screen doesn’t pop off and rip your connecting ribbons out causing more issues. Here’s what is recommended in the parts dept:

[linked product missing or disabled: IF145-283-1]

Lauren Alvarado -

“Upon the reinstall of the new screen, is new adhesive required? If so, where does one source this - not listed in the parts store (after a search for Surface Pro)? “

I would appreciate an answer to this, too. I see that there are a variety of double-sided tapes for sale on this site, but not sure if they are needed and if so, which width is most appropriate. Thanks

Robin Ensom - Ответить

@monkey04191775 @sp5 I updated the guide for you with links and information on replacing the adhesive—check the final step and the tools list. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

Good Goddess!

I managed to replace my broken screen but it appears that my digitizer that controls my touch screen is not working.

It’s possible despite my care, that I damaged or didn't connect the digitizer correctly,.

Although, it seemed like the securing flap closed on the pins or it didn’t and mind did.

Deleting / installing new drivers didn't fix the dige issue, I tried everything I could think to no avail but I’m happy to use the touch pad or a mouse.

The screen switch out took over 8 hours of slow, meticulous, work, for this being my first time attempt at such a fix.

I shattered my old broken screen quite a bit despite taking care and taping it to reduce or prevent more shattering which added to the time needed to fix.

The risk of opening up the Surface a 2nd time to see about the digitizer is not worth the risk of shattering the screen again, at least for me.

Overall I do feel very accomplished and am happy with my results.

I would do the whole thing over again.

Thx!

Lauren Alvarado - Ответить

The 2 ribbon cables connecting the screen to the motherboard are very easily torn………. but can be replaced

Alan Sears -

I would suggest watching this video first……….. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP35bO-T...

Alan Sears - Ответить

To any one with their touchscreen not working after repair:

I had the same issue, but got it working.

It’s extremely important to properly insert the 2 cables from the new screen to the “Reverse L”-shaped circuit board.

Took me 3 tries:

1st try, no touch functionality at all. Figured I’d retry as I hadn’t yet sealed the device back up.

2nd try, the touchscreen went crazy, registering “taps” without me touching it. This was progress! From there, I knew there was a good chance one of the cables weren’t seated properly.

3rd try (took 20-30 mins to get the cables in properly), it worked!

The cables go in much further than it initially appears & the flap still closes even if not in all the way.

There are notches on both sides of the cables which must clear the tiny metal pieces on both sides of the female connection.

I had to actually move the entire L-shaped piece closer to those two cables to get a solid connection.

For me, the cables also needed to be lifted slightly while inserting them.

Hopefully this helps someone!

Justin Klein - Ответить

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