Oculus Quest 2 Disassembly

Start by removing the six T2 screws that hold the inner lining of the headset to the front.

One side at a time, insert a pick next to the nosepiece, slide it to the edge and pry.

When both sides are loose, carefully lift the cover out, and fold it so that the nose piece is on the outer perimeter of the device, as shown in the second image.

Lift the small black clip on the ZIF connecter up, and pull the flex cable out.

The ribbon cable is lightly attached to the headset with adhesive and the cable is connected with a ZIF connector. Consult Step 1 of the Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors guide (RDCC guide) for ZIF connector info.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the locking flap to release the cable. See pictures 2 and 3 to understand how the flap operates.

Remove the three P000 screws.

Remove the two P000 screws

Insert a pick and pry at these four spots to release the clips.

Lift the front cover away from the headset.

Unplug the side WiFi antenna. See step 5 of the RDCC guide. To disconnect the cable, slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or tweezers under the metal neck of the connector and lift straight up from the board.

Remove the 4.4 mm P000 screw

Remove the two 2.3 mm P000 screws

Unplug the battery. See Step 4 of the RDCC Guide. Use the spudger to pry the connector straight up.

Remember to put part of the battery ribbon cable under the logic board when reassembling.

Remove two P000, 4.8 mm long screws.

Remove four P000, 4.8 mm long screws.

Remove two P000, 10.7 mm long screws.

The arrow points to the Bluetooth antenna. To disconnect see step 5 of the Guide. Go to picture 2. To disconnect the cable, slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or tweezers under the metal neck of the connector and lift straight up from the board.

Picture 3. Remove the antenna from the headset.

Unplug the fan.

Remove the T2 screw

Remove the P000 screw

Lift the front LED away from the headset.

Lift the fan away from the headset.

Remove the four P000 screws

Remove the heatsink.

There are 2 ZIF connectors near the top of the mainboard. The ZIF flap on the right has been opened. The ZIF flap is opened by pushing down in the direction of the orange arrow.

Unlatch both ZIF connectors and disconnect the cables. These cables lead to the front LED and IPD sensor, and proximity sensor.

Unplug the side WiFi antenna connector. See step 5 of the RDCC guide. To disconnect the cable, slide a thin, ESD-safe pry tool or tweezers under the metal neck of the connector and lift straight up from the board.

Unplug the cable leading to the USB Type-C port and headphone jack. See Step 4 of the RDCC Guide. Use the spudger to pry the press connector straight up.

Two sets of speaker cables are connected to the main board.

Grab the wires and pull out to disconnect the speaker cables.

Disconnect the ZIF connectors for the top cameras

The ZIF connector is shown in the second picture. A spudger should be used to push up the locking flap as shown by the red arrow.

When the flap is open the ribbon cable may be pulled from the connector.

Open the flaps on the three ZIF connectors and detach the ribbon cables.

The screen cable is attached with a press connector.

Use the spudger to pry the press connector straight up. See Step 4 of the RDCC Guide.

Remove the following screws:

One 3.5mm hex screw

Four P000 screws

Remove the mainboard.

Remove the four P000 screws

Unroute the side WiFi antenna.

The battery power comes to the midframe through this cable. The cable has a metal pad on the bottom and is attached to the midframe with glue. Separate the metal plate on the bottom of the connector from the midframe.

The midframe is removed giving access to the battery.

Remove the two P000 screws, which hold the battery to the front of the case.

Remove the four P000, which hold the battery to the back of the case.

Remove the three T2 screws, which hold the cover on the battery case.

After the cover is removed.

Release the speaker wire from the speaker retainer.

Remove the seven P000 screws from the speaker retainer and USB port.

Use the spudger to free the speaker retainer.

Remove the USB charge port and the speaker retainer.

Use a small screwdriver to tip up the tabs on the springs.

Remove the springs using needle nose pliers.

The arm and speaker are passed through the headset and locked in place with the rubber retaining ring.

Tabs in the rubber retaining ring pass through the slots in the arm. These are the slots that previously held the springs. the ring is turned to lock or unlock the arm.

When you are working on the arm located near the on/off button, you must put your hand through the part of the headset that is normally towards your face to grasp the retaining ring. You then push the arm down in the direction shown in the second picture.

When working on the arm located near the USB port you must put your hand through the front of the headset to grasp the retaining ring. You then push the arm down as shown in the third picture.

Small metal tabs hold the guide rails that the lenses slide on. Removing the rails reveals the display.