Введение
Use this guide to replace the upper component cable containing the flash, microphone, and sleep/power button cable of an iPhone 5s.
This guide requires removing the battery. Removing the battery with the adhesive strips is the safest method, but also leaves your battery without adhesive. When replacing your battery, use a piece of double-sided tape to secure it. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.
You can also use this guide to replace the logic board antenna bracket and contact clip.
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Видео обзор
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
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Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.
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If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
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Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
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While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.
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With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.
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Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
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Remove the suction cup from the screen.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.
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Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.
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Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.
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Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
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Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
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One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
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One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw
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One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw
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One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.
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Use a spudger to gently pry the button assembly cable up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board.
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Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49
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Remove the following screws from the logic board:
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One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw
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Two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws
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Four 2.8 mm standoff screws
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Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers.
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Pull the logic board slightly away from the rear facing camera.
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Flip the logic board toward the battery, as if you are turning the page in a book.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable on the back of the logic board.
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Remove the logic board from the iPhone.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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At this point, a small metal plate near the rear facing camera is loose and may come free from its recess.
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Use tweezers to remove the plate from beneath the bracket to the left of the rear-facing camera.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Using a pair of tweezers, flip the rubber camera cover out of its clip and toward the outside of the rear case.
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Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket.
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Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole in the battery adhesive tab near the headphone jack.
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Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess.
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Pull the battery adhesive tab straight up from the phone.
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Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.
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Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
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Repeat to remove the second adhesive strip.
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If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.
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Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.
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Remove the following Phillips #000 screws from the vibrator bracket:
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One 1.7 mm screw
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One 2.5 mm screw
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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With a set of tweezers, remove the vibrator bracket.
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Remove the following screws securing the volume button and ringer switch brackets to the side of the rear case:
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One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
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Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the ringer switch bracket from the side of the rear case.
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Remove the ringer switch.
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Use a spudger to pry the volume button bracket from the side of the rear case.
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Remove the volume buttons.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to pull the rubber rear-facing camera cover out of its slot in the rear case.
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Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board antenna bracket to the rear case.
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Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the contact clip and power/sleep button bracket.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case.
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Run the flat end of the spudger under the portion of the cable near the volume control buttons.
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Use the tip of a spudger to free the adhesive securing the vibrator contact portion of the upper assembly cable from the rear case.
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If the flash assembly has not already popped out of its hole in the rear case, use the tip of a spudger to push it free.
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Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case.
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Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case.
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Use the tip of a spudger to push the power/sleep button into the phone slightly.
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Use a set of tweezers to remove the button.
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Unclip the power/sleep button bracket hinge from the post holding it in the iPhone.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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7 Комментариев
Parts list calls for:
iPhone 5s Logic Board Grounding Bracket and Contact Clip
not sure why.
Instructions at link for these parts says they are "visible in steps 53 through 56 of the Upper Component Cable Replacement guide". Not quite right.
- Steps 56 & 57 show removal of the Logic Board Grounding Bracket, but instructions call it the “logic board antenna bracket”. Screw that goes through the logic board into this is marked in red on step 30.
- “Small metal contact beneath logic board” referred to in Step 30 goes under the Logic Board Grounding Bracket. See also Step 34.
- Step 59 shows removal of the Contact Clip.
Great guide. Be careful that the silence button is workable before reassembling everything. It is easy to think the switch is in place when it really isn’t. Also, be careful when adhering the new cable to the housing as accurate alignment is essential for the cable to not have a significant kink in it when trying to align it with the logic board. I found that following the markings on the back housing were pretty close when adhering the cable and deciding where to put it. I got sick of messing with battery adhesives and tried to use none and the battery is totally stable once the phone is reassembled and doesn’t rattle around at all.
Quick question: Is this cable compatible with iPhone 5 SE A1723?
Brilliant. My only comments are that it doesn’t mention that the new replacement ribbon cable has adhesive strips that need to be used, so be very careful in the positioning of it before sticking it down. Also, the power button part of the new cable needs to be stuck unto the retaining bracket with glue which you need to have at hand. I used UHU as it is fairly inert and can be easily repositioned. Finally, I suggest you will probably need a magnifier of some kind (stand or glasses) to help in this repair as it is a lengthy process, and best taken slowly.
Great guide! The steps were clear and detailed enough for me to replace upper component ribbon without messing anything else up (which, unfortunately, sometimes does happen) :) The only small thing that I would perhaps mention is that the rubber camera bumper also comes attached to the replacement ribbon, so you don’t have to worry about the old one when you’re removing it. Same with the small strip of adhesive that is holding the contact clip - I recommend removing it since the replacement ribbon also has the same adhesive strip already attached to it.
