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Видео обзор
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Anti-Clamp$24.95-
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
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Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95-
Remove five screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.0 mm Y000 screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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One 3.7 mm Phillips screw
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
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Use a spudger or fingernail to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
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Remove the five screws securing the two brackets below the Taptic Engine and main speaker:
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One 1.0 mm tri-point Y000 screw
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Two 1.3 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
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One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
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Gently lift to unstick and remove each bracket, being careful not to bend it.
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If necessary, apply a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften the adhesive. (Putting an iOpener on the brackets is not recommended, as this may bend the spring contacts along the top.)
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Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker connector cover.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.
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Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker, near the edge of the iPhone's case.
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Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker slightly.
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While prying up the speaker, use tweezers to peel away the plastic bumper strip from the top edge of the speaker.
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Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
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Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.
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Grasp the plastic bumper strip and carefully lift it over the speaker connector.
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
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Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
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Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
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To increase your odds of success:
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
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Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
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If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
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Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.
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Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.
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Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.
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Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.
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If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the two next steps.
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Otherwise, if any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, remove it by adding a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) underneath the battery near the stuck strip(s).
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After about a minute, gently lift the battery.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
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Start from the top or bottom edge of the battery, and pull toward the middle. Don't pull the string through the middle third of the battery, or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath.
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Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
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Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
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17 Комментариев
i don’t know what happened but now my iphone xs will only boot into recovery mode and there is nothing showing up on the display. i have double triple quadruple checked and dont know what my issue is. any feedback on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
My iPhone has been turned off completely for the past few weeks, I have tried to hard restart it but nothing seems to work. It has a black screen and isn’t responding to anything. Nothing has ever been wrong with the phone it just shut down one day and hasn’t restarted since. Do you have a suggestion to get my phone working again?
Anyone have an issue where the phone won’t charge after replacing the battery/
Yes, I cant figure out why. I wonder if because its not the original battery, it wont let the new one charge? Idk.
Nick Lo -
It is possible the you went to deep with the plectrum, knocking of a capacitor from the logic board. I think it’s best you take it to a really good repair shop where the owner has expert solder skills to replace it.
Good luck