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Ice maker stopped making ice.

Thinking it's my ice maker but just getting a second opinion.

My ice maker stopped making ice. I pulled it out and there was frozen ice cube still in the mold. I melted them out and waited to see if it would start working again, and it didn't even dump water into the tray.

The fridge and freezer are both at the right temperature, we change the water filter as soon as the light comes on every six months.

What are you thoughts?

thank you.

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I have had the same issue. Whirlpool fridge is about a year and a half out of warranty. It abruptly stopped making ice. I replaced the water filter, and it still would not make ice. Then I shut off the power to reset the computed, and that did not work either. Then, after I did nothing more, two days later it mysteriously starts making ice again. Weird!

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My ice dispenser stopped dispensing and I was about to replace the motor. Fixed that and now it is not making ice.

Both instances for me were terrible engineering from Whirlpool. Where my wire harness goes up into the door to control all these features was designed poorly and about 5 of individual wires had broken in two along with the outer sheath. Reconnected all the wires and worked fine but did it again. Whirlpool sucks and offered no help. Will be buying another manufacturer’s product next time.

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We got a new wpool frig a few months ago in late 2018. Our icemaker tries to work. Even worked for a few days. Then stops dispensing ice and the motor cranks and the icemaker cover bulges in and out. Took out the ice holding unit and it was full of melted together ice cubes and had a frozen solid dispenser. Also some ice inside the bottom of the icemaker housing.

Melted and dug out the ice in the icemaker holding tray and housing and reinserted unit into housing. Same thing happened after a day or so. Have repeated this many times with same results. Adjusted frig n freezer temp up and down but same results. Water dispenser, filter and pressure are fine.

Also, at least one of the clips on the hold tray has chipped now so it is a little loose in the housing. I think caused by the unit trying to dispense and bulging in and out as the drive turns but the dispenser arm is frozen up.

Model wrx735sdhz01

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Mine makes ice sometimes and sometimes doesn’t. I feel I’ve in the maker but it never dispenses?!?

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I have the same issue as well. We've defrosted the ENTIRE unit and after 2 days the ice maker was back to normal. Now 1 week later, not only has ice maker stopped but the inside has tons of frozen ice on the frozen foods. The water dispenser is working just fine.

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Выбранное решение

Cause 1

Freezer Temperature is Above 10 Degrees F (-12C)

If the freezer temperature is above 10 degrees Fahrenheit (-12C), the ice maker will not produce ice cubes efficiently. The freezer temperature should be set between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit (-18 to -15C) for the ice maker to work properly. If the freezer temperature is too high, ensure that the condenser coils are clear of debris and the condenser fan is working properly. In addition, check to see if frost has accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the evaporator coils are frosted over, part of the defrost system has likely failed.

Cause 2

Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically-controlled valve that opens to supply water to the dispenser and ice maker. If the water inlet valve is defective, or if it has insufficient pressure, it won’t allow water to flow through. As a result, the ice maker won’t make ice. The valve requires at least 20 psi to function properly. Make sure that the water pressure to the valve is at least 20 psi. If the water pressure is sufficient, use a multimeter to check for power to the water inlet valve. If the water inlet valve has sufficient pressure and is getting power, but the ice maker won’t fill with water to make ice, replace the water inlet valve.

Cause 3

Ice Maker Assembly

One component of the ice maker assembly might be defective. Since many of the ice maker components are not sold separately, you may need to purchase and replace the entire ice maker assembly. Before replacing the ice maker assembly, check the water inlet valve, water line, and fan. If none of these parts are at fault, and the freezer temperature is at least 15 degrees Fahrenheit, replace the ice maker assembly.

UPDATE 3/2/19 For those that have less common problems here’s the complete list

Cause 4

Icemaker Module

The icemaker module is equipped with a motor that cycles the ice ejector arms or turns a tray to eject the cubes into the ice bucket. When the thermostat or sensor on the icemaker tray reaches about 15 degrees Fahrenheit, the motor cycles to release the ice cubes. At the end of the cycle, the icemaker module sends power to the water inlet valve to refill the tray with water. If the icemaker module is defective, the ice maker won’t make or dispense ice. First, depending on your model, make sure that the on/off switch is in the on position or the bail arm is in the down position. If the icemaker module has ejector blades, check to ensure that ice cubes are not stuck in the blades. There are usually test points in the module that a technician can use to further diagnose problems with the module.

Cause 5

Low Water Pressure from House Supply

The home may have insufficient water pressure. The water inlet valve supplies water to the ice and water dispenser. The water inlet valve requires a minimum of 20 psi to function properly. Check the water flow and test the pressure to determine if it is at least 20 psi.

Cause 6

Door Switch

The door switch turns off the ice and water dispenser when the refrigerator door is open. If the door switch fails, the dispenser will not turn on. To determine if the door switch is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the door switch does not have continuity when activated, replace it.

Cause 7

Ice Level Control Board

Some refrigerators use an infrared beam to sense the level of ice in the ice bucket. When the ice level reaches the top of the bucket, it interrupts the infrared beam. The control board then shuts off the ice maker. When the ice level drops below the beam, the control board signals the ice maker to make more ice. If the ice level control board fails, the ice maker will stop making ice. Ensure that the ice level control board is getting power. If the ice level control board is getting power, but the ice maker won’t work, replace the ice level control board.

Cause 8

Water Filter

A clogged water filter can restrict the flow of water to the dispenser and prevent the ice maker from working properly. The water filter should be replaced about every six months to maintain proper water flow and ensure water quality.

Cause 9

Icemaker Mold Thermostat

The icemaker mold thermostat monitors the temperature of the ice mold (ice tray). Once the mold reaches the proper temperature, the icemaker ejects the ice cubes and refills the ice mold with water. If the mold thermostat is defective, the ice maker will stop making ice. To determine if the thermostat is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the mold thermostat does not have continuity, replace it. (Note: If the ice maker is not cold enough, the mold thermostat contacts will open. If the thermostat contacts are open, the ice maker will not make ice. The ice maker temperature must generally be lower than 20 degrees Fahrenheit for the thermostat contacts to close.)

Cause 10

Icemaker Switch

The ice maker switch might be defective. It is also possible that the icemaker switch got turned off by accident. Check the switch to ensure that it is turned on. If the icemaker switch is turned on, but the ice maker still isn’t working, use a multimeter to test the switch for continuity. If the icemaker switch does not have continuity, replace it.

You can find a few more things to try on the Frigidaire ice maker not working guide—even though it’s for Frigidaires, a lot of the same solutions apply.


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my ice maker stopped working as well. The arm does not go flat down, it's about 1/4 way up, not at 1/2 way point. Could this be the problem?

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Pauline, stick you finger in the tray that holds the water to freeze and see if there is ice or even water.

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thanks for responding and no water. It was working perfectly till Christmas Eve

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Pauline, my ice arm is in the horizontal position when off. When on, it's about the 5 o'clock position.

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Ok, so do you think it's the motor

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For whirlpool and other brands it makes. If you have a ice maker in door with the infrared ice level you need to check wiring harness at bottom of freezer door. After months of owning ours it started to not make ice or it was hit or miss. 3 ice makers and heavy web searching later over couple years, I found my solution. The wiring harness that comes out of freezer door has major flaw. It rubs or is under to much tension. It is the large one in plastic loom. I found my black wire and green wire was broken in half. Had to make a patch to reconnect wires and now I'm making ice.

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Going to check this. I've replaced just about everything else and still no ice. Totally disgusted with Whirlpool. Will never purchase another product from them.

Replaced the entire ice maker in the freezer, replaced the water valve. Just up and quit, hasn't worked since. Like 30 days after the lame warranty ended. Seriously low quality performance and service.

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After 2 months my Whirlpool French door refrigerator stopped making ice. Whirlpool sent out a repair person. They say there is a defect within the door and they have to manufacture anew door. I wait another 8 weeks. The door arrives dented. I have to wait another 8 weeks.

I would never recommend Whirlpool. I have a new kitchen, new Whirlpool appliances and I am buying bags of ice. Unacceptable. Whirlpool will not help me. They say they are trying to get it repaired... I guess they can do this forever as long as they are trying to order parts!!!

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I am having the same problem with my whirlpool frig,. I have replaced the water valve., unplugged the frig, checked everything I could . I still do not have water going to the icemaker. No more whirlpool frig

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@jlarry Check the I/m to see what position the ice rake is in. The rake is the is what rotated to push the ice out. The I/m has gears, sensors and switch’s the operate it. Some models use a flexible tray to release the ice. The tray will often be stuck due to worn gears. Most I/m have a thermostat that won’t allow the I/m to advance until the temperature is 9*f or below. Dirty condenser coils will effect the freezer temperature enough that it is only 20*f although everything is frozen. It will go unnoticed. Manual check the freezer temperature. Condenser coils need to be cleaned at least once a year, more often if you have inside pets. I hope my suggestions help.

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OMG ! This is the same issue .. was driving

Me nuts !! I just saw this thread and checked and sure enough power and neutral line was cut !! Problem is that it’s cut right up against the part where it goes up into the freezer so it’s nearly impossible to patch .. grrrr

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There are too many questions on this guestion to address each one. If you post your question as a new question you’ll have an answer for your individual problem. Here are some fix’s for several situations.

Ice maker quit after replacing water filter.

Flush the air out of the water lines by letting the water dispenser on the door run about a gallon or more water through it. It’s boring, but air can take as long as10-15 min to get flushed out. I’ve seen many brand new filters fail.

Is the ice maker ON?

This is a very common problem. Children might play with the display and turn it off. Some have a on/off switch on the I/M, on the display, on the wall in freezer etc.

It makes one tray and stops when reset button is pushed.

Pushing the reset button on the I/M bypasses the heater thermostat. It will dump the ice, fill than freeze but never drop the new ice. This is due to a bad heater thermostat. Most technicians replace the I/M instead of replacing the tstat. Replacing the tstat is time consuming and the labor cost is high. It’s more cost efficient to have a new I/M. You can replace the tstat if you have time and patience.

If you hear gears turning but don’t see anything moving.

The gears that turn the fingers that push the ice out are stripped. This can happen due to sediment in the water building up on the ice tray and making it hard for the ice to release from the tray. You need a new I/M.

The cutoff arm doesn’t move.

The arm slips into a slot on the I/M head. Be sure it’s secure in the slot.

DIRTY CONDENSER COILS cause Ice production to slow down. Dirty coils will cause major issues.

The first symptom of dirty coils is slow ice production. This is due to a rise in temperature. I/M won’t advance if the temperature is above 9*F. Dirty coils restrict the air flow needed to cool the compressor and to remove the heat from the unit. The refrigerant lines are copper and heat will cause them to erode. The compressor will run hot and the next thing that happens is a no cool situation. A sealed system issue is expensive. Very expensive. Most failed compressors are due to dirty coils. You need to clean the coils at least once a year. If you have pets, clean more often.

I hope this helps you determine the problem. If not, repost your problem as a NEW question and include the model number. Thanks!

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Whirlpool. Gold model G17FVCXXY00 and yes the icemaker is on, have flushed the air out of the water filter and replaced it

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Check for cut wire at the bottom of the door. Ice tray wouldn't turn. Connected cut wire back and everything works again

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I was about to try to replacement ice maker W10873791 for my Whirlpool side-by-side Fridge-Freezer WRS571CIHZ. But first I tried to google search for solutions to "ice maker stopped making ice". Several troubleshooting sites started with folks replacing the $125 ice maker, only to find out the problem was not solved!! Further searching found experts saying to check the bundle of wires that come up the bottom of the freezer door for any broken wires. I checked and found the wire bundle’s vinyl outer sheathing to be broken open where it had fatigued over time due to opening and closing the freezer door for the past 2.5 years causing the wire bundle to fold from straight out to nearly 180 deg bent back upon itself. Then looking in the bundle of wires, the yellow wire was broken. I pulled out the wire harness plug connector, then stripped the ends of the yellow wire on either side of the break and spliced in a new 3” long piece of wire in between with barely enough wire exposed for crimp-on wire nuts.

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I have this problem but it’s the red wire completely split. My ice stopped and I googled and checked all the other possibilities but as it’s producing water not ice I checked the wires in the door and think I have found the issue. Is there any significance to the color of the wire? So I just need to strip the wire and add a new piece of wire in between? Can I get the wire at Home Depot?

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I reset my filter after the icemaker wasn't making any ice and readjusted temperature and now its making ice again

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Mine the motor that dispense the ice do not work any more stopped making ice as well..

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Check wires at the bottom of the door. I had a cut wire. Fixed wire, problem solved

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Just had another problem with my ice maker! Water spilling out when ice try is filling. Figured out the ice doesn't always dump right. This can cause ice to back up above maker. It can disrupt the flow of water and spill out everywhere. Or like mine it can fill the entire cavity below the ice bucket where the auger motor is. I had a hum but no turning. Took it all apart and thawed out with a hairdryer, soaked up all the water and let motor sit outside to drain and blew it out with a air chuck. Plugged it up and dang it works. This whole ice maker in door is poor design.

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I see this issue on both refrigerators with ice makers and undercounter ice machines where there is some type of filtration system or water softener added to the home supply. Air will get into the lines. If you run your faucets until the air is removed, you still won’t remove the air that is in the tubing to the ice maker itself. It can take several days before that air is removed.

You can manually cycle the ice maker if you know how too do this. The owners manual might have that information. You could try to run a clean cycle on the ice machine. That usually takes care of the problem.

I don’t know if anyway to prevent it. When you remove a filter, air will get in the lines. Removing that air is just a matter of flushing it out, replacing the air with water.

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An actual Whirlpool certified repairman came out to check our icemaker. It turned out there was an air gap at the top that let in room air which allowed water to condense on the outside of the water supply line and run into the icemaker and freeze. Making a big lump of ice and stopping the ice dispenser auger.

He pulled out the fridge, took a little cover off on top over the icemaker, caulked the gap(s), put it back in action and it's been fine ever since. He said he's seen this same issue several times. Apparently if they leave that gap at the factory then this icing up problem is likely to happen. His reports go back to Whirlpool so hopefully they've addressed the issue.

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Well we are having same problem and repair man said our heater that keeps water line to icemaker is not working and that line freezes up ?We have water to drink from our fridge . So now he is ordering new door because they can not access this part ? We have changed water filter ,got a new whole new ice maker component , still not working will work for a few days and then freeze up again ,we had a power failure for about 5 hours and icemaker started working again ,we even turned our freezer down for 5 hours and that helped but now even that does not work ,so now I am going to have to get a new door ,thank god it’s still under warrantee .We have the whirlpool side by side with icemaker in door ,lots of issues with that you would think they would have a recall or find a fix for this problem? Repairmen sure have a secure job ?Hope you resolve your problem

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Marlene Roy, could you post your model number please. I’d like to look at what the tech is replacing Thank you

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They are now replacing the door ?

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Checking the heater cable on the ice maker fill tube is fairly easy. The "heater" is a piece of resistance wire with a light blue insulation. It plugs in to the top right corner of my WRF992FIFM00 French Door Freezer. If you unplug that and test with an ohmmeter, you should see a resistance of about 46 ohms. (It should be printed on a label attached to it. (Test the blue wire, not the socket that it plugs into.). If you look at a photo of the fill tube, the blue wire is taped & insulated along about 2/3 of the fill tube for the ice maker. If you don't have continuity and about 46 ohms (+/- 10 ohms) then your "heater" is defective. Considering the routing of the wire, the most likely points of failure are the plug pin connections or at the potential chafing spot where it enters the "ceiling" of the ice maker compartment, right along the route that the ice maker fill pipe enters the compartment.

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Also... a simple way to test if your ice maker fill tube is plugged by frozen water is to remove the two screws and remove the top left hinge cover. This allows you to see the TWO water tubes that feed into the left hand door on the French Door versions. Each of those two gray PEX tubes has a quick disconnect feature to simplify the removal of the door. Disconnect the one to the ice maker. (It's the only one that is prone to freezing up if water drips into it from a leaky solenoid, etc..). The ice fill tube has a darker blue fitting on it. Once it is disconnected, simply blow a little air through it. If it's plugged with ice, you may feel the ice plug blow out. If it is NOT plugged with ice, it will feel like you're blowing through a straw with very little resistance. That is what you want.

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Secondly... if you do have a thoroughly frozen ice maker fill tube, there is a simple way to defrost just the ice maker compartment. Open the left hand French door and you will see two "ducts" on the left edge of the door that match two ducts on the refrigerator. That is where frigid cold air from the freezer is forced up to to ice maker compartment, and the other duct returns the air to the freezer compartment. Simply put some clear packing tape or tape a thin piece of paper over the duct openings for a few days. The temperature in the ice maker compartment will rise and the ice plug in your fill line will melt naturally. Much easier than having to empty your fridge & freezer and leave it off for a few days!

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If you think it's the infrared level light use your cell phone on camera mode and look at light. The camera will pick up the light so you know that part is working. I also contacted whirlpool. According to them the broken wires at the bottom are not a problem and the barley knew anything about it. I than proceeded to let my feeling known about that.

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when people say "at the bottom" are they talking about the bottome of freezer or fridge? also, how do I access them? Where the heck are they? - Mike

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Wires at at bottom of freezer door at hinge. You can remove the bottom plastic dress piece. About 2 screws. Doors have to be 90 degrees to remove.

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Check to make sure you're actually getting water to the ice maker and also some have a lever that's over the ice maker shaped like a wire that needs to be pulled down hope this helps

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Since day one ours has put out crushed ice when it is set on cubed. Then it started melting and water was freezing in the bottom so it would not dispense. Now it has stopped working completely. By the way we it started melting we put he freezer temp down to -5 it did not seem to help.

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This is a saga about a standalone Uline icemaker in my basement bar.

I bought it in 2007 and starting about 2017 it would make ice for a few days then suddenly the ice bucket would be full of water.

I paid 100 bucks for a technician to come out and look at it - he said the compressor is working fine ( which I was glad to hear!) He said the compressor shuts off while the ice is harvesting so the problem is either a) the icemaker assembly locking up or b) the temperature control module. He wasn’t sure which, and I said I’ll call him after I play with it a while.

I also looked online - A whole new icemaker was $1200. The icemaker assembly cost at least 500 bucks to replace. The temperature control module cost 40 bucks and any idiot could change it out.

So… duh

So I had the unit make some ice then lifted the arm so the icemaker assembly would no longer cycle. Three days later, bucket full of water. Icemaker assembly not the cuprit.

Therefore it must be the temperature control assembly.

$39 part. I ordered it on Amazon, and replaced it myself.

Everything’s been fine since.

But it’s actually a sad story:

I opened up the old part. It has on/off contacts - which looked like points off a ‘67 engine distributor- and they were corroded.

$1200 icemaker taken down by cheap potmetal part (look up potmetal) worth 1 penny.

I bought this Uline icemaker because a previous one I owned worked flawlessly in a boat - stored in winters and abused summers -for over 15 years and as far as I know is still working. But that unit was made in the early 90s.

I also have a refrigerator, washer and dryer from the 80s that have never broken.

I am hearing modern appliances are expected to last five years.

*sigh*

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I have a 4 year old Whirlpool fridge and yes, it stopped making ice. This started this past year. Something interesting to note, I have filled the hopper with ice from a bag. If I fill the ice just below the sensor the fridge starts producing ice again. Its almost like it is jealous of the ice I added so it feels the need to compensate. In all seriousness, the design is defiantly flawed.

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@Daniel DiVita What is the model number? When you say you fill it just below the sensor, what sensor are you referring to? There are fears and cams in the ice maker that will wear out and cause it not to advance. Sometimes a little push will get them moving. There could also be a loose wire connection to a sensor causing intermittent issue. How long will it make ice once it starts back up?

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I have a question - I have a filter on my house a the main feed line. When ever I shut off the water to replace the filter my ice maker stops working. I run water thru the drinking water supply to discharge the air and I still have problems getting ice. Question 1 - what should I do to get the ice maker working ? Question 2 - what is the correct procedure to prevent this problem next time I change my house filter ?

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Could put a bleed valve after filter. That way you can bleed all air before it gets to ice maker.

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So I have been trouble shooting for almost a year. I replaced the ice mold last week and got a few dumps of ice and then it became a random dump every few days. Then nothing. I kept reading EVERY post I could!!! I thought maybe it was a bad optics board and then kept reading about how the optics board communicates with the door switch to tell it the door is closed make us or don’t make ice or allow water flow because the door is open. I had a hunch to test one more thing!!! I saw there are two door switches. Once controls the light to the freezer. The other one did nothing when I pushed it in. I assumed this one was the ice maker water control communicator. I taped it as flat as I could shut the door and waited…about ten minutes later there was and ice dump and water fill!!!! The ice cubes are smaller than before but I don’t care at this point. It beats those effing ice trays. So 45 min later another dump and fill! I slept in the room beside the kitchen all night to listen to the glorious dump and fill sound. All night baby!! Just heard another dump and fill! I wish I could call everyone having this issue and let them know to try this. I am leaving tape on the door switch forever if I have too. This site gave me every tip I tried and it took a ton of trial and error. I didn’t even have to replace the mold but who cares! Right now I have a half a bin full of ice! I will follow up in a few days if this does not continue to work. So thankful!!! I just hated to think about buying a perfectly good fridge and sending something to a landfill.

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I had trouble with my Whirlpool ice maker that was on top. It wasn’t making any ice. It has an infrared sensor for the door. The light on the sensor was blinking. It would blink twice and pause. According to the code, it sounded like I would need a new circuit board for the sensor, which is about 250.00. I went and shut the breaker off to the refrigerator, because I didn’t want to pull it out, and waited about 5 minutes. I turned the breaker back on and the ice maker started working again.

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Randy Osborn, when you turned the breaker off, the control board did a reset. All appliance these days have a control board. Sometimes they need resetting. Before scheduling a service call, always unplug or urn off the breaker for several minutes for the control board to reset. Then check the appliance.

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@ladytech Have the Whirlpool people coming out this week. Same as others my ice maker won’t dispense ice. I noticed a small bit of frozen ice stuck in there and cleared that out. I can’t seem to figure out how to get a good look at the parts. We do have an RO but have had no issues in 2 years. Took out the filter to see if that was the problem. Any other suggestions before I pay $90 plus parts and labor? Thank you!

Model WRX735SDHZ02

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Im sure im to late for the original poster. But for future reference n others. Has it been doing fine but has now stopped making ice? If your on well water its especially possible the valve or line may be clogged. Find where the refrigerator small water line taps into the plumbing. There should be a tap valve . Open and close it fully several times to flush. Also make sure water dispenser has about a quarter inch steady stream. Also make sure the refrig is not kinking on pinching the waterline behind it. Sometimes refrigerator is to close to back wall and pinchs off water flow. Have you pushed it further back lately? Is the ice shutoff lever in the ice maker down or up ? Must be down to make ice.

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Check wiring harness at bottom of freezer

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Replaced all the valves, Ice Maker, and tried to fix broken wires too. The best thing to do with this Refrigerator is to save money for a new one. Too many problems to fix - and obviously, I am not the only one. I have never seen this many comments on one appliance………

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Poor water pressure may cause it. If the ice maker does receive adequate pressure it will not fill the ice maker enough. Remove line from back after cutting off. Then stick in a bucket , turn on. Should be about a quarter inch stream. Also make sure water dispenser has same amount of flow. Did you replace shut off valve? Open and close valve fully several times to flush out shutoff valve. ( not everyone has a shut off valve) follow the water line to where it taps into the plumbing. Theres usually a tap valve there. Flush it also. Looking on the back of the frig you may see multiple plastic water lines. Make sure none are pinched or damage. Also when frig is push back in place near wall be sure your line doesn't pinch or kink. Can you hear water come on and run inside frig? Is the ice maker getting power? When you push ice dispenser is there any noise? As you replaced so many things i suggest its water pressure or circuit board ( located behind buttons on door).Google brand model circuit board disassembly

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