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Введение

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease. The battery is made up of six distinct cells, four of which are adhered to the upper case.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent.

If you're using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe (no longer sold), click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.

    Toby Thurston - Ответить

    Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.

    timofej.se -

    This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue

    Susan Greer - Ответить

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  2. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips. The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.
    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  3. Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

  4. Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

  5. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
    • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew - Ответить

  6. Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
    • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

  7. Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board. It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
    • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

    • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

    • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

  8. Grasp the Interposer with tweezers. An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.
    • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

    • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak - Ответить

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

  9. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board. When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

    • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

    I keep my fingernails fairly long, very handy for many computer repair jobs. This gives me 10 spudgers over which I have very fine muscular control. It is far easier to pop some of these tiny delicate MacBook parts loose with my nails.

    Ben Myers - Ответить

  10. Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector. Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

    • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  11. Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.
    • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

  13. Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector. Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
    • Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

    When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

    Stu - Ответить

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case: One black 6.8 mm screw
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One black 6.8 mm screw

    • One silver 6.3 mm screw

    • One black 4.9 mm screw

    • The silver screw (in the corner) may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

    If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)

    Peter Newman - Ответить

  15. Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case. If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.
    • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

    • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

    For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.

    S Cockerille - Ответить

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board. Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

    • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

  17. Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector. Gently pry the left speaker cable connector  up off from its socket on the logic board.
    • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

  18. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One black 6.8 mm screw

    • One silver 6.3 mm screw

    • One black 4.9 mm screw

    • The silver screw (in the corner) may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

    Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

    Stacey Deel - Ответить

  19. Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case. Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.
    • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

  20. Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
    • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

    • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

  21. Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.
    • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

  22. Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total). Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
    • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

    If I were to do this again, I think I would leave unbolting the transverse battery until after ungluing the other four. That way one can tip the laptop on to one of its short sides and so run adhesive remover along the long edge of each battery and let gravity assist penetration without the transverse battery falling out.

    John - Ответить

  23. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    You can use a heat gun to remove the adhesive. Remember you can always add more heat so don’t over do it. I put my heat gun on high for less than 10 seconds at a time

    BRUCEL86 - Ответить

    Using a heat gun on a lithium-ion battery is not a good idea. You can get away with it if you are careful, but a solvent is much safer. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  24. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  25. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  26. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    If you use a heat gun be sure to point the heat gun away from the motherboard. After heating for 10 seconds or less use the blunt end of the metal pry tool as you don’t want to puncture the battery. You don’t need much force as after you have enough heat you will hear it unsticking when you pry at it lightly with the BLUNT end of the metal pry tool. Repeat this step on the other side. You don’t need to heat the cells near the motherboard as they are secured with small screws

    BRUCEL86 - Ответить

    I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj

    Peter Newman - Ответить

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson - Ответить

    Goo Gone, applied with a pipette, is a non-flammable alternative solution for releasing the adhesive that won’t harm plastics if it seeps past the battery cavities. It does take a bit longer, 30-45 mins, but is much safer. An additional benefit is that the adhesive will be completely separated from the top-case, so cleanup is super quick.

    John Grzeskowiak - Ответить

    Hi John,

    We don’t recommend using Goo Gone because it’s a petroleum distillate based remover, which leaves an oily residue. The residue can prevent replacement adhesive from fully bonding with the surface. Be sure to clean any Goo Gone surface with a detergent-based cleaner.

    Isopropyl alcohol and iFixit’s adhesive remover are formulated to evaporate quickly and leave little residue, which allows replacement adhesive to bond properly to the surface.

    Arthur Shi -

  27. Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

    • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

    This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

    Ahmed Almulhim - Ответить

    I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

    Matt Sephton - Ответить

    we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

    Allen Lin - Ответить

    Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

    This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

    lukecparr -

    by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

    Jennifer McPherson - Ответить

    Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I second this, I also used an old credit card and it totally worked! I did not use any heat or liquid

    yas.siqueira - Ответить

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson - Ответить

  28. Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell. Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell. Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.
    • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

    • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

    • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

  29. Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive: Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
    • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

  30. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell. Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

    • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

    • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

  31. Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.
    • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

    • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

  32. Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro. Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell. Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.
    • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

    Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

    Chris Leeds - Ответить

  33. Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery. Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
    • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

    • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

    Fred Ziegler - Ответить

    I second Fred’s suggestion. I had to “smoosh” the right speaker in since my battery replacement was a little bit too far over. It was fine, but the “heads up” note is warranted.

    David Ryan -

    If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

    jaredcastello - Ответить

    Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.

    lamajr -

    When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

    Stacey Deel - Ответить

    Hi all,

    After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?

    My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???

    Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!

    Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!

    BR,

    Vijay

    Vijayaprasath Rajendran - Ответить

    Hi Vijay!

    Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!

    Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.

    Thanks!

    Kadan Sharpe -

    Hi All,

    Just replaced battery, and am typing this on the live MacBook. The unit fired up as soon as I plugged in the power adapter. Nice. The battery percentage indicator said the battery had approximately 85% power charge. Is this normal? If not, what steps should I take to ensure that this battery is properly calibrated?

    Cheers,

    James

    James Pineda - Ответить

    Hi James,

    Follow these steps to calibrate your new battery: https://help.ifixit.com/article/265-batt...

    Sam Omiotek -

    日本語翻訳ありがとうございます。大変分かりやすかったです。

    1点だけ、下記タイプミスだと思います。

    カリブレーション→キャリブレーション

    kazika - Ответить

    ご指摘ありがとうございました!訂正済みです。

    Midori Doi -

    Can someone tell me which model is written in the battery? I saw that is written the model a1437. Is this model compatible with the a1425? Thanks

    mizuno.doss - Ответить

    Hi Mizuno,

    The battery model is A1437, and it is compatible with the MacBook Pro model A1425.

    Arthur Shi -

    These instructions are brilliantly concise! Thank you. And thank you everyone for your comments. As a final comment from me, it is much easier to assess the final position of the batteries if you place them gently in position, reinstall the speakers, adjust the battery position if needed and then press them firmly into place.

    John - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Комментариев: 39

Followed this guide step by step. Very comprehensive and accurate. I would never have dared disconnect the speakers if this guide didn't show me how.

One point though. The lower left and right speaker screws had some metallic sponge on top of them. I wouldn't have known there were screws underneath.

wayne - Ответить

Excellent guide. I'm a repair technician who works on both PCs and Macs. This was my first rMBP battery replacement and I wasn't sure what to expect. For those experienced with electronics repairs, I'd say this is a relatively easy repair with the exception of releasing the adhesive which holds the battery cells to the case. I was eventually able to do it with a spudger and some elbow grease, but I was worried at times that I was going to puncture the battery. Apple really needs to dial back the strength of adhesive they use for these applications. They are clearly making it as difficult as possible for the average user to attempt, which IMO may end up costing them well informed and thoughtful customers. This setup is similar to the iPhone 6 battery (which I actually did puncture with a spudger the first time I removed one) albeit more involved to remove. In the case of the iPhone, a few minutes on the hot plate loosens it right up but this isn't really feasible in the case of the rMBP.

nick - Ответить

Thanks for this guide, I had a faulty battery and replacement by apple would be 400 euro. Now I did it myself with a replica battery for 80 euro.

Tip on prying loose the battery at step 24 and on: Use an old credit card. That worked very well for me.

roelofk - Ответить

Old Credit card works very well on Step 24. Excellent guide.

Tiny AIM - Ответить

I recommend to skip step 14 ( pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board). The risk of damaging the socket is very high. There is even a warning in this guide (Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself!).

Proceed from 13 to 15 and 16 to remove the right speaker. Still with the connector in place you can put the speaker a bit aside and have enough room to remove the battery packs in the steps later.

Same for left speaker and its connector cable (step 18).

Hint by @roelofk with old credit card is very helpful.

Excellent description and excellent pictures. Thx

Stefan Duckwitz - Ответить

Apple should not put Adhesive most specially the time you spent to remove it. Its easy but it takes time cause the adhesive is like a glue, If somebody

read this the tactic is borrow a Hair drier from your wife and heat this Bad Battery really hot and start inserting the Plastic or whatever you have underneath the Battery slowly. Apple should just put some kind of anti static foam so its easy to remove in no time theres cover anyway that foam will keep it from moving period thats it.

ricofamor - Ответить

Excellent guide, it worked very well for me, the parts and tools I purchased here made this job easy and a pleasure! Getting the batteries unstuck from their glue is the hardest part for sure, just patience and proper tools and it doesn't take too long though. Thank you so much!

Peter Weldon - Ответить

Excellent guide, but PLEASE consider changing the reported difficulty to medium (iFixit, if that's not something the author can do). The process is actually super easy, but just takes over an hour to do.

I nearly didn't do it myself after realising it was rated the same difficulty as an SSD/HDD change in an iMac (with which I cracked my screen in two places), but it isn't. This is about a 2/10 difficulty level, and that's about 9/10.

I just think it would be a shame if the reported difficulty dissuaded people from doing it, and wasted hundreds of dollars paying Apple to do it. If you can read, and have the equivalent dexterity of tying shoelaces, you can do this. :)

Also, the battery removal is a pain, but if you cut an old credit card down the middle, you have two "spudgers" you can use underneath in a turning motion (sort of like rotating a lever in-plane), while pulling it in and out. A bit of patience and you'll get each half out in about 5 minutes.

LongTimeMacUser - Ответить

Great manual! Thanks a lot. I do agree with @longtimemacuser tough, difficulty level was discouraging me. Once I read all the steps, I thought I could do it and I did it and it worked! So I believe this difficult level should be medium, it's not hard (expect for the battery adhesive), it just take a long time to do it.

rennerassis - Ответить

I had a water incident with my wife's Macbook Pro. After drying the machine it would startup on power but the battery was toast. It said the battery needed replacing. Went through this battery replacement procedure - agree with the posts above that it's not as difficult as I was expecting based on the difficulty level.

Incidentally - after battery replacement the battery charged once then after that the machine wouldn't boot at all. I eventually went through this procedure a second time then removed the logic board and the i/o board and liberally cleaned both with a 99.9% isopropyl alcohol bath. Reassembled all the components and everything works great. I assume this was due to some residual water damage and the cleaning seemed to do the trick.

Kids got a new spill resistant chromebook new and the wife's Macbook Pro is happy again.

Rand Bell - Ответить

Just replaced battery + wifi module.

Thanks a lot!

Weichen Zhao - Ответить

This was much easier than expected, and the MBP is keeping a charge just like when I pulled it out of the box 4 years ago. Like was said before, this might be the step below "difficult" unless you've got the coordination of an elephant on stilts. Thanks for the guide!

Adam Sharrow - Ответить

Very clear instructions, I followed them carefully and everything worked out fine! It was quite easy, actually.

I only improvised by using my nail polish remover (acetone) as an alternative to adhesive remove, worked as expected though :)

Margarida Dinis - Ответить

Been repairing Apple laptops on a regular basis for about 17 years now but this was my first ‘Retina Battery Adventure.’ As a long-experienced Apple tech, this really isn’t a very hard job. Just use the adhesive remover very carefully. It does all the hard work.

I bought iFixit’s ‘kit’, which turned out to be a great value; the replacement battery along with a spudger, precision tweezers, a syringe, a super-precision nozzle (for the syringe), small jar of adhesive remover (I think it’s just Acetone nail polish remover ), gloves, pry tool and pry pick, two pry cards, eye protection… oh, and a tool handle like the one in my iFixit universal toolkit, along with all the screwdriver bits required for the repair.

With all the extra pry tools and stuff, it looked like prep for a journey to the center of the earth or somethin’.... And hey, I was NOT disappointed when the job turned out to be waaay easier than implied by all the extra tooling. A nice collection of extra stuff for my kit! I now have two spudgers.

Wow.

clinton - Ответить

Did all of you remove the battery with adhesive remover or can i eventually just remove it with a credit card?

Or - as right now there isn’t any repair kit with the adhesive remover available - can I use a different adhesive remover than the one from ifixit?

John Snow - Ответить

The adhesive is just acetone….

Henrik Fricke - Ответить

I just successfully replaced my battery. I used pure acetone from the pharmacy to “melt” the glue. Afterwards you can easily (but carefully) remove it with a credit card (or similar).

John Wayne - Ответить

Easy to follow guide. Tip: Install new battery AND re-install the speakers at the same time

Rich Sammon - Ответить

Wonderfully comprehensive and easy to follow. I was able to remove the old battery and install a new one in around 1 hour. Take your time, read all of the instructions and look at all of the images a couple of times before starting. I separated all of the screws and labeled them so reassembly was a snap. Huge thanks to the author and to this site for offering the parts and detailed guide! My Mac is like new again.

Craig Temple - Ответить

I did this battery replacement this morning. If you follow the excellent instructions and take your time this is not very difficult. One thing that wasn’t covered is that the replacement battery comes attached to a piece of plexiglass to aid in the positioning of the 5 pieces of the battery. The quality control on the positioning was not perfect on mine - I had to detach half and position, then place the other half. The placement of the replacement is not covered in the instructions - but isn’t very difficult.

I recommend getting the full kit - it was complete and made the replacement go easier. My new replacement is charging to 97% and has a capacity of 6358 mAh. This is almost 1000mAh more than my original battery was reporting! My old battery was only lasting an hour, this one is reporting 4+ hours.

Thanks! Great documentation and a solid kit.

GeoffC - Ответить

Thank you for a great guide! I was a bit worried about this, as it was rated Difficult, but it was not bad at all. I have been working on computers for many years, but had never cracked this model of MBP. My 13-year old daughter assisted me with the “transplant”, and all went well. (She has repaired a few iPhones for friends.) My old battery was only lasting a little over two hours, and I hope I have a significant increase in charge time with this new battery. Changing the battery took us about two hours, the longest amount of time was dealing with the adhesive. We found that the card provided worked better than the spudger, and the cloths in the kit were perfect for getting the remaining adhesive off after removing the battery. My daughter got to learn a new skill, and is confident that she could replace the battery in her MBP.

Charlotte Seehafer - Ответить

Zunächst mal großes Erlebnis, wenn das Paket mit all dem passenden Werkzeug und dem Akku ankommt. Alles hervorragende Qualität. Mal abwarten, ob der Akku hält, was er verspricht.

Die Anleitung ist sehr gut geschrieben, allerdings klappte der Akkuwechsel wesentlich leichter, als angekündigt. Hier ist keine Zauberei erforderlich. Nur gute Vorbereitung. Was Sinn macht: Ein Foto vom offenen Laptop machen, auf DIN a 4 ausdrucken, dann kann man die Schrauben immer an die richtige Stelle legen (am besten mit Klebeband fixieren, zB. den PRITT-Roller).

Stellt Euch einen Staubsauger zur Seite mit weicher Bürste. So könnt Ihr sehr vorsichtig die Berge an angesammeltem Staub entfernen, die sich im Gerät abgelagert haben.

Ich würde einen Hinweis begrüßen, dass die Akkus beim Einbau möglichst nah an den inneren Rand eingesetzt werden, um den Einbau der Lautsprecher zu erleichtern, die sind sonst sehr unter Spannung.

Ach ja: Der Akku wird dank eigener Platine als neuer Akku erkannt und die Anzahl Ladezyklen mit 1 angegeben.

Christian F. - Ответить

Installation went great, but now my Mac isn’t recognizing the new battery. It doesn’t hold a charge and will shut off if not plugged in. Can anyone help/elaborate on this?! Also, I already reset the SMC…

Amanda Tautges - Ответить

You can find a few things to try in this thread: New replacement battery for MacBook Pro not recognised. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is a clear and very comprehensive guide. Just finished changing the battery to my computer.

Thank you Sam Lionheart and Ifixit, could not have done it without you. Love my IFIXIT tools!!

maria longo - Ответить

Brilliant guide. Great job - the repair was flawless. Old battery was at 5500 mAh capacity - now up to 6699 mAh!!!!!

It took me about 3 hours, because I spent a lot of time cleaning as I went. First time it was opened since 2014.

Nabil Freeman - Ответить

The instructions were very good. I was able to replace the battery using this guide. One tip is to have little cups for the small parts you remove in each step and number them with the step. When you go to put it back, you just have to look at the step number and corresponding picture you will know exactly where it goes. This will save you time from hunting for them, especially the very small ones.

AJM - Ответить

Great guide, replaced my battery in no time without any problems. Shame the Ifixit battery I bought now only has about 60% capacity after 4 of use months and 12 recharge cycles. Says Service battery again!

Scott Moncrieff - Ответить

Hi Scott,

The battery should definitely last more than that. Try calibrating the battery following the instructions below. If that doesn’t solve the issue, contact our support and we will help resolve the issue!

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Arthur Shi -

Great guide! Thank you for publishing - just followed this to fix the battery on my mom’s computer! She loves it.

jepsen.10 - Ответить

The replacement is easy, thanks to the excellent description.

Only the adhesive foils of the replacement batteries were too weak. The batteries detached after a short time, so I had to reopen the case and use my own adhesive foils to get this fixed.

The fact that the batteries were loose was noticeable by a clattering sound.

ChristophP - Ответить

Great guide but I had one minor issue, when installing the new battery you need a note to make sure you place the two remote batteries snug top and inside or you don’t have enough room to install the speakers. I had to pull them up and restick them down.

Brian Stang - Ответить

Excellent guide. The instructions are very clear and easy to follow. I was worried about removing the adhesive and getting the battery out without damaging it but it turned about to be quite straightforward - just take your time and let the solvent do its work. Thanks.

Trevor Baxter - Ответить

Just reporting that I finished this install without disconnecting the speakers, removing the SSD, or anything else. I simply disconnected the old battery, the SSD connector, and unscrewed each speaker and gently folded them out of the way. I then used a thin spatula-like tool (that I made) to remove the old battery. A fresh razor blade makes quick work of any remaining adhesive. Only took about 45 minutes all told. Thanks, iFixIt team, for all you do for the DIY community!!

John

jiclark - Ответить

I followed these great instructions but for one point: I didn’t use acetone at all, I just used a very thin metal blade (some kind of surgical tool used by dentists) to unglue the battery packs. There is always the risk of piercing a pack but with the proper blade (thin but no cutting edge, very flexible but with a very strong inoxydable steel) it worked very well and I had the feeling that acetone was much more dangerous (just a very small drop on a circuit board could be bad, plus the strong necessity of a thorough clean afterwards to make sure the next glue won’t be dissolved by remaining acetone vapors …). And I second the very first remark, make sure to leave enough space to re-install the loudspeakers, on the left side my battery was glued 1 mm to close to the unibody side …

Pierre.

Pierre Chopot - Ответить

This guide is great. As an amateur, I found it easy to follow and replace my battery. However, the battery itself may be defective. Started at 107% and after only 7 charges the battery has gone down to 97%. Even calibrated it twice. Also the adhesive on the battery did not stick to the lower casing, so you might need to buy some double sided tape for it.

Tyefr78 - Ответить

I’m glad the replacement went well for you! If you haven’t yet, I would suggest performing an SMC reset.

Arthur Shi -

I have zero computer servicing or building experience. The instructions were great. I had no problems, EXCEPT, that the new battery wasn’t charging. After taking things apart and putting them back together for most of the day, and finding no answers online or on this website as to my issue, I finally decided to use some common sense and start messing around with the MagSafe port. Turns out that it must have disconnected during the install. I plugged it back in, and it started charging. I didn’t see a warning about this being a possibility (although I was reading the instructions from my phone so it could be there) so it probably should be pointed out. My only problem. After calibrating the battery per the instructions, at best I’m getting three hours of unplugged time (and that’s without me hearing the fans turn on. Doesn’t seem right. And after just a couple of cycles, the battery life is already at 97%. Seems like I’ll be needing another battery replacement within the next couple of years.

Carlos Ramiirez - Ответить

Excellent guide! It is even faster with the Macbook pro 13 Retina to replace the battery. Got me 1hour with cleaning.

Ruslan Strazhnyk - Ответить

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