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Видео обзор
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Grasp the hard drive assembly and press the release button while lifting its front edge.
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Remove the hard drive assembly from the top vent.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Xbox 360 Opening Tool$4.99
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Insert the flat end of a spudger or the edge of an Xbox 360 opening tool into the small gap at the front edge of the bottom vent.
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Pry the front edge of the bottom vent away from the faceplate.
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To release the clips, work from the front edge of the bottom vent.
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While slightly lifting the front edge of the bottom vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the front of the bottom vent towards the inside of the console.
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Use the tip of your spudger to release the clips on the bottom vent nearest the back of the Xbox.
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Insert the flat edge of a spudger between the faceplate and the outer casing near the power button.
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Run your spudger along the edge of the faceplate to release the clips securing it to the front of the console.
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Repeat the same motions as previously mentioned to release the left side of the faceplate.
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The top vent is secured to the console via clips. The first two clips are located underneath the top vent closest to the faceplate, as shown in the pictures.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small gaps previously mentioned to release the clips.
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To release the clips, work from the middle of the top vent.
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While slightly lifting the front edge of the top vent, use the tip of a spudger to push the clips closest to the center of the top vent towards the inside of the console.
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Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox's upper case.
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Use the tip of your spudger to release the clip on the top vent nearest the back of the Xbox.
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Remove the top vent from the 360.
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Stand the console vertically with the top edge facing down.
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Carefully peel the warranty sticker off the console.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to release the following latches:
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Above the front-facing USB ports.
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Beneath the front-facing USB ports.
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Above the Memory Unit slots.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger and pry upwards to release the last remaining latch located above the eject button.
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Slightly lift the front portion of the lower case to ensure that the latches in the front have been completely released.
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Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the clips securing the lower case to the upper case near the I/O ports.
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While pressing down on the tool, push the lower and upper cases apart to separate the retaining clips.
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While pushing the upper and lower cases apart, use the tip of a spudger or the finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool to push the long clip highlighted in red toward the center of the 360.
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The clip should release, leaving the clips near the power connector as the only thing holding the upper and lower cases together.
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Press the Xbox 360 opening tool down into the two remaining clips near the power connector.
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Push the upper and lower cases apart to fully release the retaining clips.
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Grasp the back portion of the lower case and lift it upwards to separate it from the console.
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Use the tip of a spudger to release the clip securing the eject button to the metal casing.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the eject button and the optical drive.
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Pry the eject button off its retaining posts and remove it from the 360.
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Remove the six silver 64 mm T10 Torx screws securing the upper case to the metal casing.
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Peel the silver tape securing the optical drive to the metal casing.
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Slightly lift the optical drive upwards to gain clearance to disconnect the SATA and power connectors located on the backside of the optical drive.
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Grab the power connector by its cables and pull it straight out of its socket on the optical drive.
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Disconnect the SATA data connector from its socket on the optical drive by pulling it straight away.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the small rectangular opening on the top of the cooling fan duct.
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Carefully release the fan duct retaining clip and remove the fan duct from the Xbox.
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The clip can alternatively be released using the metal finger of an Xbox 360 opening tool.
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While lifting the metal chassis strip above the dual fans, pull the fans toward the center of the motherboard.
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Lift the dual fan connector straight up from its socket on the motherboard.
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Remove the dual fan assembly from the console.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips securing the RF module shield along the top and the left edge of the RF module.
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Remove the RF module shield from the console.
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Remove three 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the RF module to the metal chassis.
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Grasp the RF module and lift it straight up to disconnect it from its socket on the motherboard.
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Remove the RF module from the console.
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Remove the following screws securing the motherboard to the metal casing:
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Nine gold 11 mm T10 Torx screws.
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Eight black 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws.
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Lift the motherboard assembly from its front edge.
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Remove the motherboard assembly from the metal casing.
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Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.
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Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.
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Insert your screwdriver parallel to the motherboard between the X clamp and its retaining post.
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Twist the screwdriver to fully release the X clamp from its retaining post.
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Insert the tip of a small flathead screwdriver between the X clamp and its retaining post on the heat sink.
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Pry the X clamp away from its retaining post until it is lifted above the small groove cut into the retaining post.
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Remove the CPU heat sink from the motherboard.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Arctic Silver ArctiClean$9.99
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Now that the heat sinks are off both processors, use a plastic spudger to remove all of the old thermal paste residue from the faces of both processors and the inner faces of the heat sinks.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Heat Gun$24.99
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After cleaning, the mating faces of the heat sinks and the processors should look as shown.
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Flip the motherboard over.
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Peel off the four silicone thermal pads stuck to the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.
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Use the 1/4" socket drive end of the included screwdriver with no bit inserted to remove the four X-clamp posts from both the CPU and GPU heatsinks.
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Apply a thin layer of thermal paste to the areas highlighted in red.
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After applying thermal paste to the processors, it is time to reattach the heat sinks one at a time. In our case, we attached the CPU heat sink first.
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Insert a machine screw through each of the four holes around the CPU heat sink, with their heads on the back side of the board. While you hold the screws in place, sandwich the nylon washer between the motherboard and metal washer.
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Using the large flathead screwdriver bit, tighten the screws into the CPU heat sink. First lightly tighten the four screws in an X-shaped pattern as seen in the second picture, then follow the same X-shaped sequence to fasten the screws down.
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Use the edge of your small flathead screwdriver or another thin and sharp object to carefully pull up a corner of the blue or white plastic sheet covering the adhesive on the bottom of both heat sinks.
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Peel the protective sheets off the adhesive on both heat sinks.
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Lightly clean the surface of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture.
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Stick the two heat sinks down against the top of the two chips highlighted in red on the first picture, being sure the fins are aligned as seen in the second picture.
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Remove the clear and colored plastic backing material from all four thermal pads.
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Stick the thermal pads down against the RAM chips on the bottom of the board.
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Reinstall the motherboard back into the chassis and reassemble your Xbox 360.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions from Step 42 in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions from Step 42 in reverse order.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
630 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
75 Комментариев
I didn't have a heat gun so I disabled the fan and left the 360 on for 1/2 hour to heat up the weak solder points and then let it cool down for 1/2 hour before re-assembling the 360. This gave me all green lights.
yea but it goes in standby after some time and it dont heat up anymore, how did u do that?
Unfortunately this repair only lasted a few months on my xbox, going to try it again and hope for better results.
When you take it apart, I recommend following our reflow guide before installing the RROD fix kit. I recently did this to an X360 that the RROD kit fixed only momentarily and afterwards it worked good as new.
I did the relowing of the motherboard this weekend, hopefully it lasts longer than the previous repair.
zima539 -