iPad Air LTE Front Panel Assembly Replacement
Введение
Перейти к шагу 1Use this guide to replace the front glass and digitizer assembly on an iPad Air LTE. This is useful if, for example, your front glass is cracked or no longer responds to touch. If you need to replace the actual display, refer to this guide.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
Warning: the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated, and may result in irreversible damage to the battery pins of the logic board, effectively destroying it. If you choose to isolate the battery this way, heed all warnings and work extremely carefully. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Front-facing camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
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Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.
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Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
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With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.
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On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the glass panel like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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Remove the four Phillips screws securing the LCD:
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Three 4.0 mm screws
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One 4.8 mm screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Leave the blocker there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
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Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Polyimide Tape$9.99
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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141 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
18 Комментариев
Definitely not for the weak of heart, especially if your screen lost all its integrity when it shattered. You'll be scraping glass splinters off the frame for an hour. Tip: Make sure to scrape off all the black adhesive from the frame of the iPad (and I mean every speck) before putting the new screen down. I apparently missed a spot, and I can't get the screen to seat perfectly within the frame (but close enough; I'm not going back in there). Also, I didn't have much luck with the microwavable tube for softening the adhesive, but I was fortunate to have a heat gun that helped quite a bit.
I love the ifixit guides and this one is up to their consistently high standards, have to concur with the previous comment though, if your customer brings you a completely trashed digitizer a good number of the steps become obsolete and its down to brute force to remove the adhesive even if you've taped the screen, picks become redundant. One piece of advice that could be incorporated is if the digitizer is beyond repair, just cut the ribbon and be done with it, opening a trashed screen 'like a book' is not necessary, otherwise spot on guys and thanks for making my day easier!
I agree with the previous two comments—this guide (or a separate one) should be changed to show to replace a cracked/shattered digitizer. I quickly learned that using the picks was a lost cause and following the guide was near pointless until I got to removing the display.
Pro-tip: don't even bother with the heat gun if the digitizer is shattered. Take the iPad outside, put on a pair of goggles, and just wedge a spudger/tweezers between the adhesive and the glass. Don't worry about damaging the home button or cables, your replacement digitizer probably has them pre-installed...just worry about the camera and not nicking the display. It's going to make a huge mess, but that's why you're outside. Heat it if you want, but I didn't find it necessary.
Before you proceed with this — especially if your digitizer is shattered — read through the comments under each step for some helpful hints. Also, one thing that isn't mentioned: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE DIGITIZER AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE FILM. From what I can tell, only the outside of the digitizer is made of gorilla glass, and the inside will lightly scratch no matter how soft and clean your cleaning cloth is.
I found the guide easy to follow, I completed the repair in half an hour. I found the repair easy to complete BUT i recommend that you use a heat gun over the iOpener tool, as the heat gun is more affective at softening the adhesive making it easier to pull out the little shards of glass. I recommend you update your guide to show a realistic repair with an iPad with a horribly cracked screen.
