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Wireless Charging base failures or options?

I’ve had FOUR chargers go bad on me. When I contacted Casper about the first one, they sent me two more. That’s not a good sign. Those charging bases are notoriously prone to failure. There’s two pins to connect to the light to chargé and they constantly get pushed into the charging base and stop charging the light. Anyone got another way to charge the Glow light? Or repair the charging base pins?

Ответ на этот вопрос У меня та же проблема

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David Pomerleau that is interesting. Post a couple of good pictures of what this all looks like, with your QUESTION. Point out where you see the damage reoccurring and let's see those base pins. I am sure there is a way in getting this fixed

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Hi David,

I have an Ember coffee mug with the same kind of charging setup. I was curious about its internals, so went searching for repair information on how to change the battery once it wears out. Didn't have any luck, but did come across a video of someone who went to the trouble of locating and replacing the pins you're talking about. Obviously they are likely different on your glow light, but Digi-Key sells a LOT of shapes and sizes of those pins, so there's a pretty good chance you will find something that will work.

Repairing an Ember smart mug with replacement parts from Digi-Key

Here's another video posted on the Digi-Key forums page.

Ember Smart Mug Charger Repairs - Maker, DIY - Engineering and Component Solution Forum - TechForum │ Digi-Key

Obviously you're on your own with regard to figuring out how to open up your charging base and getting to the pins, but once you do, the soldering and replacement should go about the same.

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Thanks guys! I was able to fix it. :)

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Update (11/26/23)

This was the pin i used for the fix: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/100500282...

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Sweet! Hey, can you post a link to the pins you ordered to fix it? That way people with this same problem in the future (and you know there will be) will know what to get.

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Yeah, I also would be interested to know what pins you have used.

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This worked for me with part number ED9001-ND.

https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/de...

Process is pretty simple:

- Peel off the rubber base - it's stuck to the metal base plate with a double sided adhesive disk.

- Unscrew the base plate and remove.

- Pop off the white plastic caps that are securing the circuit board with the tip of a Stanley knife.

- Remove the board, turn it over, use a soldering iron to free the existing pins and solder on the new ones.

- Reassemble - Once back in place, I covered the board with a strip of electrical tape instead of the white plastic caps. One of my metal bases was still sticky enough just to put the rubber straight back on, the other needed some new double sided tape.

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Thanks! I will give this a try. Just curious if your repair is still working.

also which contact failed on yours? all of ours have been the inner contact.

We bought the set, and both chargers failed. They did send us new ones, but it took almost 6 months. [they claimed they were waiting for a shipment]

The one that gets the most use, which is very little use, failed within a couple months. The second charger was not really used and it got swapped over to the other light.

3 dead chargers, 1 working for the time being...

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Just did the repair on two chargers with part ED9001-ND, an old 2019 one and a very recent replacement that immediately failed.

The 2019 one had the longer PCB and passthrough original pins, while the new one has a short PCB and surface mounted pins. The part worked for both. The old board required some extra solder to remove the old pin, while the new one was a little annoying to align because the pins are not placed in the middle of the pad but a little closer. On one I replaced both pins and on one I replaced only the inside failed pin. The results seem equivalent.

All in all an easy fix, and the new pins seem much more resilient. And if not, I can swap a new in.

(BTW, the two chargers both draw 5W when the light is off, but the new one draws more than double when the light is on.)

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Hey! I’m new here & in all this. I tried following what you did but the board looks different and I’m having trouble removing it from the plastic base. Any suggestions?

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@ggsgj6pvg0ex9y1 I think you're almost there, but definitely agree that the circuit board you have is completely different from Pogopooc's board. It looks to me that your board is being held on by four melted plastic pins that will probably need to be cut off in order to remove the board from the base. It's the same kind of mounting used for a lot of keyboards and other things where the manufacturer has assumed the part is never going to be removed; in other words, they assume it's non-repairable. Well, we've got news for them, 'cause we're going to fix it! :)

Here's your picture with those four plastic pins circled in red. Your two spring contacts (AKA pogo pins) are circled in yellow.

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You can either take a utility knife and trim those four pins off, or a soldering iron will also make short work of them. Once they're off, you should be able to take the circuit board off the base. From there you'll need to figure out what kind of replacement pins you need. The fact that you have solder domes on the reverse side of the board tells me you're looking for what are called through hole pins rather than the surface mount pins used on Pogopooc's board and the Ember mug charging base that I'm working on right now.

In general you'll want to measure the length of the pins and use that as your main search criteria for finding replacements as well as looking for through hole rather than surface mount too.

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I can confirm that the red circles identify plastic caps that need to come off - a bit of leverage with the tip of a Stanley knife did the trick for me. I've repaired five bases now with a mix of long and short circuit boards. I used the surface pin linked in my previous post for all of them.

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Appreciate all the info! It's frustrating how easily these original charger pins break and how Casper made them more difficult to replace.

I believe I found the same replacement pin part number on Amazon, but not sure how many pins given per order, any thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DEFT5RM/?co...

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@ggsgj6pvg0ex9y1 Ouch, that's the price for one pin. Including shipping, that's over $10 for a single pin. The ones I ordered from AliExpress came in at about $2.00 for 10 of them, or more like $0.20 each. I mean, I understand if that's the only one you can find, but seems to be massively overpriced to me.

Note that 0.177" is almost exactly 4.5mm, which just happens to be the size I ordered from AliExpress for my Ember Mug charging plate. Here's a link to the ones I ordered (note that I haven't received them yet).

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/325680524...

You can take a look at my Ember Mug guide for ideas, but it's not complete since I don't have the pins yet.

Ember Mug Charging Base Pogo Pins Replacement

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Yes, I had also these kinds of plastic caps. I removed them with a knife. I used this pins here:

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Unfortunately, I can't find the exact dimensions anymore.

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Thx guys, I followed @chalky101's and @dadibrokeit's instructions to remove the pcb from the plastic base, and I bought the pins from aliexpress recommended by @pogopooc (the M1682 pins, link: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/100500282...)

However, there seems to be another problem :(. I Have 2 "broken" charging bases and 2 lamps. I replaced the pins on one of the charging bases, and unfortunately the lamp still doesn't turn on when flipped, even after hours of charging. I even followed the reset guide that casper sent when I contacted them, shown below with the other pictures. (I tried this reset procedure before and after replacing the pins). I tried charging and resetting my second lamp on this modified charging base, and it would not turn on either. I checked for shorting on the pcb and there appeared to be none.

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The charging base pcb with new pins outputs 9v when tested with a multimeter, the same as my other unmodified charging base.

Before doing the pin replacement on one of my charging bases, I believed that the problem for both of them was that the pins were not making proper/any contact with the lamp, however now I believe my problem may be different.

Some observations I noticed;

  • My modified charging base and my unmodified charging base both output 9v

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  • When either lamp is placed on the modified charging base, the multimeter reads around 60mv on the lamp's top-side charging rings, gradually increases, then tops out to around 150mv. The same thing happens when both lamps are left to charge on the unmodified charging base.

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  • The multimeter reads 0mv on both lamps when they are not on the charging base

My guess is the problem lies within my 2 lamps themselves, but I have no clue what. I tried searching for any info online about repairs pertaining to the lamps with no luck. In any case, working on the lamps sees more complex than the bases - just my luck ha. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the help so far & Happy New Year!

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please follow this guide and let me know how it goes.

  1. Charge your Glow for at least three hours. It should emit a faint Glow when it begins charging.
     
  2. Flip Glow over to see if it turns on. If it does, you're all set! If not, move onto step 3
     
  3. Reboot Glow: Press and hold both buttons for 40 to 90 seconds. Glow will turn on briefly once the reboot is complete. Hold the buttons down until this happens.
     
  4. Flip Glow over to see if it turns on. If it does, you're all set! If it doesn't, move onto step 5.
     
  5. Reboot Glow again and power on: Your Glow may not light up at the end of this reboot — hold the buttons down for an additional 30 seconds
     
    • Now power on your Glow — hold one button down for 10 seconds until the glow fully illuminates; it should be brief and bright.
      If it doesn’t brighten up, try one more time.
  6. Once done rebooting, allow your Glow to charge for an additional 10 minutes, then flip Glow over to turn it on.

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