Введение
Use this guide to replace the Bluetooth antenna.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the side button on the edge of the iPhone.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
same situation here
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.
This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…
These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.
Dan Long -
@Dan Long is right
Uri -
Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.
Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?
William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.
If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job
If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs
thaks for this advise, I was looking for this as I dont have a heat gun haha, nice hack
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If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!
There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.
The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.
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Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
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Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.
Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
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Three 1.1 mm screws
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One 3.1 mm screw
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One 3.7 mm screw
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.
To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …
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Remove the bracket.
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.
Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.
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Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
Thanks, already did it)
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
Snap ‘em in like little Legos.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.
I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.
Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼
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Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)
Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.
I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.
Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo
my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???
@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.
You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.
I have damaged the front panel sensor assembly flex cable. Does it carry multiple channels of info or is it just one solid piece that can be soldered back together? If not, will the phone still work except Face ID?
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Remove the display assembly.
I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair
CAUTION:
Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.
Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.
So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.
Just to confirm the face id is not affected when replacing the earpiece assembly? Am I correct
Sorry for the late response, but you are NOT correct. Replacing the earpiece speaker assembly will result in the loss of Face ID functionality. That's the whole assembly, including the speaker, dot projector and flood illuminator. If you unsolder the speaker from the assembly, that can be replaced by itself without losing Face ID, but any other part will cause it to quit working.
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Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
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Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
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One Y000 1.2 mm screw
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One Y000 1.6 mm screw
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One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
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One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
For battery replacement:
It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33
Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10
I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.
Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.
Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.
I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.
Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(
The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?
Does anyone know the purpose of this bracket "with grounding pads"? What would be the possible side effects if it was damaged or not connected properly during reassembly?
Hello, in my case the grounding pads are damaged. I've had problems since EMC. When I try to charge wirelessly, the iphone starts wild button presses (Gosting).
Does anyone know, where I can get new grounding pads (with or without bracket)?Sure would like to know WHY the warning "Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads..." What would or could happen if I did touch them??
Removing the battery strips is a major PITA, just skip this step and everything onwards, remove the one strip on the top part of the battery (according to step 33) and for the bottom part of the battery, pry it off with a plastic spudger.
Yes, this is not the elegant solution, but the quickest and easiest one. This method is better, as you don't want to keep the old battery anyway, so why bother. (You must not puncture the battery though! But as long as you're only working with a plastic tool and are careful, nothing can happen from my experience.)
Remove the adhesive from the top part of the battery, squirt some ipa into the bottom part and it will come off easily, then skip to 38.
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Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.
Does anyone know, where I can get new grounding pads (with or without bracket)?
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While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.
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Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.
L'unique vis non?
Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
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Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.
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Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.
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Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
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Remove the speaker.
You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.
Maybe I'm a bit daft, but where's the instruction just how to line up the speaker gasket when replacing? I only have one so I'd like to avoid wrecking it. And I completely cleaned off the old one in order to do a good job of things. Why no simple instruction from part supply link?
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Use tweezers to peel off and remove all the old gasket from the frame and speaker.
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Use a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol to clean all the gasket's adhesive residue from the frame and speaker.
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Before installing the speaker gasket, find its proper orientation on the bottom of the speaker—the large cutout on the gasket should go around the speaker grille mesh.
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Remove the larger, clear liner from the gasket and use tweezers to carefully put the gasket into place on the bottom of the speaker.
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Use your fingers or a spudger to firmly press the gasket into place to secure it with the adhesive.
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Remove the remaining liner and put the speaker into place, making sure the speaker connector doesn't get stuck underneath.
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Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
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Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
hole breaks instantly on pulling. adhesive tab does not release from side of battery
just pry it off, why bother
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Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
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To increase your odds of success:
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
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Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
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If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
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Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.
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Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.
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Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.
surtout ne pas passer avec la spatule par le bas, vous risqueriez d arracher la nappe du volume et du nfc,
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Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.
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If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
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Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
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If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
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Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
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Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
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Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
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Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
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Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:
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The dot projector.
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The front camera.
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The infrared camera.
This thing is highly prone to damage. Treat it with baby hands! Mine stopped working after changing my buttons and I was super careful
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Using the tip of a spudger, start at the connector and slide the spudger between the IR camera cable and the case to separate the cable from the case.
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Repeat for the front camera cable.
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Disconnect the following cable connectors.
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The WiFi Antenna connector.
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The Wide-Angle Camera connector.
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The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
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The Telephoto Camera connector.
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The Dock Flex connector.
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The Button / Wireless Charging connector.
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The Cellular Antenna connector.
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Disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector.
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Disconnect the Dock Flex cable connector.
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Bend the cable 90 degrees straight up to allow clearance to remove the logic board.
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Disconnect the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector.
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Disconnect the Cellular Antenna cable connector.
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Bend the cable out of the way.
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Remove the two Phillips mounting screws.
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One 2.7 mm Phillips screw.
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One 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
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Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.
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Remove the grounding tab.
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When the SIM card is ejected, a pin slides out from the frame and pushes on the eject lever in the SIM card carrier. The pin needs to be pushed back into the frame so it will not block the removal of the logic board.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use a pair of fine tip tweezers to slide the SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case.
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The eject lever should look like this when you're done. The pin will no longer block the removal of the logic board.
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The logic board assembly is mounted on two posts going through the lower board and are secured to the upper board. In order to remove it, you must lift it evenly straight up to clear the stand-offs.
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Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna to the rear camera frame.
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Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna to the case.
This step has a duplicate screw from step 66. When reassembling the phone by following the steps in reverse, it messes it all up because in order to put this 2.3mm screw in, you have to put in the cameras and the bar that holds them down, but then when you get to step 86 the flash can't go in because the camera went in too soon. So I think if we simply remove the 2.3mm screw removal from this step then disassembly and reassembly should work out okay.
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Lift the end of the cable off the post on the back of the case.
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Peel the cable from the rear camera housing with a spudger.
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Remove the bluetooth antenna.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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