Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered on or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to have to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered on or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to make sure that the iPad is turned off and stays off through the entire repair. You can disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered on or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen with the iPad powered on or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered on or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to make sure that the iPad is turned off and stays off through the entire repair. You can disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.
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To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It's caused by disconnecting the screen with the iPad powered on or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. Easy solution is to disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly.
Wow.... Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. If you want the correct fix, replace it. But this works as I have done it before. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. If you have continuity (usually .02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit.