Введение
iPhone batteries are rated to hold 80% of their capacity for up to 500 charge cycles, which lasts roughly 18-24 months for most users. After that, your iPhone may need to be charged far more frequently, and iOS may warn you that performance is affected (in other words, your phone will run slower). Use this guide to replace your battery and restore your iPhone to like-new performance.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Note: On iOS 17.6 and earlier, your iPhone may display a warning about the “genuineness” of the battery after the repair, even when using original Apple parts. If your iPhone functions normally, you can safely ignore the warning. On iOS 18 and newer, authenticate your new battery using Apple's Repair Assistant.
For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the volume button edge of the iPhone.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit?
Do you sell the waterproof seals separately or are they included in the kit? (I would like to know this as well.)
I just got my Fix Kit and it includes the seals. Not sure if a "part only" version would, though.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Support your iPhone on something sturdy such as a hardcover book so it rests hands-free and parallel to the ground; this makes it easier to work with in the following steps.
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Use a hair dryer to heat along the bottom edge of the iPhone. The screen should feel slightly too hot to touch.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen's plastic bezel when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
Also: 3D Printer's heated bed set to 70-80 degrees Celcius for a few minutes does the job, as it basically works the same way heating mats used in professional repair shops do.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen's plastic bezel.
This seems impossible. I've been trying for an hour with heat and rocking, and the screen doesn't budge. :(
Don’t give up! Use more heat and a tad more force. I know you may fear breaking it more, but as long as you don’t stick the prying tool too far or tug too hard, you can do it! I have faith that you can do it!
I'm in the same boat, this isn't coming off. I've tried the hair dryer as well as the heating pad from ifixit. Any other ideas?
The suction cup comes off before the screen will
Is there a better tool for this? Just saw a video on YouTube where a kid pryed it open with no heating/etc. in 5 seconds.
I've changed the batteries in probably a half dozen iphones of different models. But 25 minutes of heating and pulling had no effect on iPhone 12
Welp. I finally ended up breaking the screen attempting this. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR! Not worth the broken screen and losing the cost of shipping both ways when you return the battery.
thx, I ll go to an apple repair center
Back (and bad...) experience ! Even if you heat a lot, the screen is hardly sticked. Take care, before sliding the mediator under the screen, this one should be moved up, at least 2 mm. On my side i have slided around 1 mm and .... inserted the mediator between the glass screen and the screen structure ring.... result : glass break and screen to change (my initial exercise was the battery removal !). I feel that next time i will visit a repair center...
Pro tip for anyone having trouble with this. You have to use multiple rounds of heat and pulling. Use a hair dryer and not the iOpener that comes with the fix kit and get it just too hot to touch then quickly start pulling and wiggling it up and down. Once it cools down grab the hair dryer again and repeat it a couple times until you start to get a big enough gap.
I just did this yesterday and it took around 5 rounds of heating and pulling to get it to seperate enough from the body.It's important to insert the pick under the bezel. I just delaminated my screen. The screen was probably fine, but it was glitching, so I wanted to check for a bad connection. Anyway, now I get a new screen.
Under the bezel, eh.
After reading this almost a year later to the day I last commented on it, I now know that the best way I have found to remove a screen, from pretty much any phone, not just this one, is heat (I use a heating pad on 80 degrees celsius) and before putting the phone on the heating pad, I use 91% isopropyl alcohol around the edges that you will be sliding your pry tools in, and I leave it on for 10 min. I then take it off, add more alcohol, and then put it back on the pad for another 5 min. Also, while I am sliding my tools around the screen, I continuously add more alcohol, and if it takes a really long time, then more heat as well. Heat, alcohol, and patience, lots of patience, and you should be good. Hope this helps, good luck!
Can confirm, this does indeed work. Just keep warming it up, lifting up and down, and repeat when phone goes cold. After around 10 rounds it would move enough to where I could see inside the phone when lifted. You can then insert pick
Tip: You can also try to apply heat and lift the other corner, just enough to make it move slightly. This will ease pressure needed to separate the glue on the other side as-well.
No worries guys! it’s completely doable! You just need to be patient and keep trying multiple times
I don't doubt that you folks eventually got this open, but how on earth do you not lose your mind with the suction cup popping off every 5 seconds? Agree with Ryan above, have replaced batteries on several other iPhone generations with nowhere near this much effort. Still working on it going on 1 hr, about 10 rounds of hair dryer heat. Did Apple use a stronger adhesive for the 12?
Success. iOpener doesn't get the phone nearly hot enough. Multiple rounds of hair dryer + isopropyl alcohol dribbled in b/w case and screen while pulling up on suction cup. For me, the bottom left hand corner (volume rocker side) seemed to lift up first, so I moved the suction cup to that corner while doing the heat + alcohol.
When I changed the battery on a 7+ instead of the suction cup/heat method I used an Cacto blade inserted horizontally along the bottom edge to break the seal. Would this work on the 12?
I struggled with this step, but eventually got it. Use LOTS of isopropyl alcohol, and soak the entire perimeter. Let it sit for 30 seconds after application, then heat it up, then pull with the clamp and rock back and forth. Reapply the alcohol and repeat until it works. Took me about 30 mins, but I eventually got it up just enough for the first pick. The iOpener is completely useless, I just used a shrink wrap gun and made sure to hold it 8-12 inches from the phone on the lowest heat setting.
iOpener along the bottom edge, the Anti-Clamp, and three tries about 5 minutes each worked for me. Never popped off, just needed lots of patience and 1.5 screw turns on the clamp. Bottom left corner was first, like another commenter.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the right edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPhone to separate its adhesive.
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Continue sliding up the right edge of the iPhone until you reach the top right corner.
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Leave the pick in the top right corner before continuing.
There is a spot on this side where a slight ridge in the iPhone frame makes the pick stick. Eventually I used two, one twisting a bit to open a path for the other. But if you're not expecting it you feel like you're going to break something.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the top edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPhone to separate the top adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top left corner before continuing.
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Use a hair dryer to heat the left edge of the iPhone for 90 seconds or until the screen is slightly too hot to touch.
Also: 3D Printer's heated bed set to 70-80 degrees Celcius does the job - it basically works the same way professional heated mats that are used in phone repair shops.
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I kinda forgot about this step when I opened my first iPhone 12.
For the next one, I'm going to mark that edge of the phone with blue tape roughly where each cable is to help me remember.Also FWIW, I got the 70 cent adhesive cutting tool from Apple with my genuine battery and used that for all my display prying needs after getting the first opening propped with a guitar pick.
It worked great and did not damage anything so no need to sweat inserting something too far and causing damage.
Could you PLEASE move this to step 13?? I tore the front sensor cable. 😭
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Insert a second opening pick in the bottom left corner of the iPhone.
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Twist both picks simultaneously until the left edge clips release.
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Rotate your iPhone so the right edge faces you.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
i did this and the shroud with the earpiece speaker still stuck with the phone so its just wedged in there i cant get it out
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Remove two 1.1 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.
Ouch, I see a broken flat here…
Can I use a y 0.6 if I don’t have y000
Yep! The measurements for Y000 are 0.6 mm.
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Remove the cover.
Hi
On my original display on an iPhone 12, there is no metal hinge as shown here and therefore no place for it when closing the phone. Have double-checked model and the original display - and it is just not there. Is there another model based on serial number?
Hinge marked: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/asztgi60g...
Best regards,
Carsten
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove four screws securing the front sensor connector cover.
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Three 1.1 mm long screws
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One 1.4 mm long screw
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Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.
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Remove the cover.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 1.6 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.
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Remove the loudspeaker.
The official Apple repair guide does not recommend removing the SIM card reader or Taptic Engine.
Instead, after removing the loudspeaker it advises only removing the standoff screw on the right side of the Taptic Engine. Then proceed with removing the adhesive tabs, starting with the bottom right tab just above the loudspeaker - step 43 in this guide.
Many folks commented in the iFixit YouTube video for iPhone 12 battery replacement that they did not need to remove the SIM reader or Taptic Engine to replace their battery successfully.
The actual speaker part mates into the grill at the bottom, so align that first. Also, you will need to exert some pressure toward the bottom of the phone to get it to mate properly with the screw holes because of the springiness of the speaker gasket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the two 1.4 mm long screws securing the SIM card reader connector cover.
Lots of folks skip removing the SIM card reader and find it is much simpler to complete the battery replacement.
I removed mine and it did not help me since my pull tabs all broke off anyway, so I spent a lot of time fiddling with reassembly - especially the standoff screws.
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Remove the SIM card reader cable connector cover.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the SIM card reader cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the SIM card reader.
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Two 1.4 mm screws
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One 1.1 mm screw
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Remove the Taptic Engine cable connector bracket.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49
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Use a standoff or a small flathead driver to remove the 2.82 mm long standoff screw securing the SIM card reader.
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Remove the SIM card reader.
The white sticker on the SIM Card Reader appears to be a water-damage indicator sticker.
I noticed mine turned slightly pink when I wiped it with a microfiber cloth that had a bit of isopropyl alcohol on it - trying to remove oily fingerprint residue before closing the phone up again. I will only use a dry cloth next time.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the Taptic Engine cable connector straight up and out of its socket on the logic board.
The official Apple repair guide does not recommend removing the SIM card reader or Taptic Engine.
Instead, after removing the loudspeaker it advises only removing the standoff screw on the right side of the Taptic Engine. Then proceed with removing the adhesive tabs, starting with the bottom right tab just above the loudspeaker - step 43 in this guide.
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Remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine.
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Two 2.8 mm long standoff screws
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One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
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Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.
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Peel down the first battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.
The official Apple repair guide advises removing the adhesive tabs starting with the bottom right tab just above the loudspeaker - step 43 in this guide.
They also demonstrate this with a more pointed tweezer, which I would like to try next time.
My blunt iFixit Tweezer cannot grasp the pull tabs effectively - maybe mine are worn out or bent in some way I have not noticed.
I mostly had to use my super pointy, curved iFixit Tweezer (the middle one in this set) that has a tendency to cut thru the pull tabs when I don't want it to. But the right-angle curve really helps get into that tight space well, so it's kind of a balancing act to find what works.
Next time I plan to apply a few drops of 99% isopropyl alcohol to each pull tab a couple of minutes before pulling them. Ultimately that helped A LOT.
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Peel down the second battery adhesive pull-tab to un-stick it from the bottom edge of the battery.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Grab the first pull-tab with your fingers and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Pull hard enough to maintain tension on the strip, but don't force it. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
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Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
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Keep the strip flat and unwrinkled. Try to pull evenly on the whole strip, rather than pulling mainly in the middle or on one side.
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Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag on the edge of the battery.
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If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
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Grab the second pull-tab with your fingers and pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
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Follow the same procedure as with the previous strip: don't press down on the battery, keep the strip flat and unwrinkled, and pull at a low angle.
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If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but do not pry under the battery.
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Peel up the two remaining battery adhesive pull-tabs to un-stick them from the top edge of the battery.
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Using the same procedure as before, pull the remaining two tabs, one at a time, to stretch and remove the remaining adhesive strip holding the battery in place. Try not to snag the adhesive on anything.
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If you removed all the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
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Otherwise, continue with the next step below.
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If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
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Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.
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Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
A very helpful addition to this guide (for me) would be the inclusion of a photo showing the iPhone with the battery fully removed, like this one in the official Apple repair guide.
I used the black spudger to nudge loose broken adhesive strips after adding 99% isopropyl alcohol, but I was not thinking about the wireless charging pad or the other cable running underneath the battery.
I accidentally pried up part of the charging pad cabling cover.
HIGHLY recommend not jabbing anything underneath the battery farther than a single guitar pick can reach.
I have not attempted wireless charging yet but honestly I prefer to avoid it whenever possible as the extra heat will degrade my new battery faster than wired charging.
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Remove the battery.
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If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
After your repair, depending on the replacement part, you may be able to calibrate it using Apple's Repair Assistant, available as of iOS 18. Update your device, navigate to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the onscreen prompts.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Answers community for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
After your repair, depending on the replacement part, you may be able to calibrate it using Apple's Repair Assistant, available as of iOS 18. Update your device, navigate to Settings → General → About → Parts & Service History, tap Restart & Finish Repair, and follow the onscreen prompts.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Answers community for help.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
78 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
6 Комментариев
Good work.
A few words of advice
If you don't have the original disassembly kit, be really careful with the LCD, it's as crunchy as anything. Heat a lot (100-120C) and if you're careful, a few drops of isopropyl will dissolve the annoying double-sided tape - but don't pour it there (you'll destroy the display), just a few drops and always wait a bit and move the pry bar Most pry bars for separating the LCD from the frame are very thick, it is better to use durable foil, metal plates or high-quality paper playing cards.
Don't be lazy to remove the SIM box and taptic engine, it will be easier to remove the straps under the battery. If you have twitches, isopropyl and heat will help ''''
Before gluing it (I recommend the original gluing kit), carefully clean the surfaces so that there are no old tape clumps and verify all functions. Do the programming of the original battery on the disassembled piece and all tests including face ID, SIM card, vibrations, if you play with shuffling electronics and JCID cable
Hallo , ich habe den neuen Akku eingesetzt und jetzt erscheint in den Einstellungen: Batterie nicht erkannt unbekanntes Gerät.
Woran liegt das ?
Da Apple-Akkus verschlüsselt sind, wenn sie nicht mit den vom Originalgerät ausgelesenen Daten übereinstimmen, sind der Akku von Drittanbietern, Apple und der offizielle Akku unbekannte Teile, wenn Sie einen offiziellen Apple-Akku kaufen, sind nur einige Reparaturdienste von Drittanbietern von Apple autorisiert, sie können den offiziellen Diagnosedienst von Apple verwenden, um den Zustand des Akkus wiederherzustellen. oder wenden Sie sich an den autorisierten Reparaturservice von Apple, um die Batterie auszutauschen, und die Batterie des Drittanbieters muss die Batterieschutzplatine des Originalgeräts ersetzen, um den Batteriezustand wiederherzustellen
biggest mistake of my life first i had bough a used phone that got repaired then the battery went inflated and then i bough the set and all things werent origial like the speaker and other things so stupidddd........... then i PAID 40 DOLLARS I WOULD EVEN GO TO A APPLE STORE TO PAY 100 TO GET IT FIXED OMG ONE TIME AND NEVER i was sitting at the cold ass winter breeze out and got almost freezed im not gonna do that anymore and brake my body
Sehr gute Anleitung. Hat mir wirklich viel beim Austausch des Akkus geholfen. Ohne solche Anleitungen würde ich mich nicht an eine solche Aktion herantrauen.
Vielen Dank.
