Введение

Use this guide to replace a nonfunctioning Lightning connector assembly, including headphone jack, cellular antenna, and microphone.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the following parts:

  • Headphone Jack Interconnect Cable
  • Microphone Gasket

The video below includes a few extra steps, including removal of the logic board. Follow the guide steps below it for the updated, shorter procedure.

Video Overview

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Ответить

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Ответить

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - Ответить

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - Ответить

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

debsmcd6 - Ответить

As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

debsmcd6 - Ответить

There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

Andre Silva - Ответить

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Ответить

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

Raymond Willems - Ответить

This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

Matthias Blab -

Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

William Kolb - Ответить

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

Don Libes - Ответить

What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

ibrokeit - Ответить

Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

Stennett -

“cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

Carolyn Green - Ответить

In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

Andre Silva - Ответить

  • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

  • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

  • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

  • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - Ответить

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

Shara Nelson - Ответить

I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

Zhian Kamvar - Ответить

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip the next two steps.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Ответить

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Ответить

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Ответить

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - Ответить

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Ответить

The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

iScott - Ответить

This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

debsmcd6 - Ответить

  • If you don't have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Ответить

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Ответить

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Ответить

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Ответить

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Ответить

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Ответить

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Ответить

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Ответить

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Ответить

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Ответить

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - Ответить

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Bill Pennock - Ответить

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

Bill Pennock - Ответить

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Ответить

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

stuart40plus - Ответить

Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

Don Libes - Ответить

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Peter Bovey - Ответить

Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

Andre Silva - Ответить

  • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

  • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The 5s front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Ответить

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

Timothy Fry -

Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

emiserry -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Ответить

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Ответить

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Ответить

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Ответить

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Ответить

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Ответить

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - Ответить

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - Ответить

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - Ответить

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Erik Osborn - Ответить

during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

Valerie Egan - Ответить

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

Christopher Flynn -

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

stopsurfing - Ответить

This is a great idea! Works for me too!

JC Alice -

This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

Andre Silva -

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Ответить

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

Michal Pawlowski - Ответить

YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

Arthur Shi -

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

Scott Nacke - Ответить

I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

Graham Agnew - Ответить

The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

Wolfgang Bauer - Ответить

Wish I’d read through these first.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

Leonard - Ответить

I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

Peter Whitworth - Ответить

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

James M. Day - Ответить

I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

ging the home-button cable.

JPF - Ответить

They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

Lisa Jakubowsk - Ответить

  • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - Ответить

I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

Andre Silva - Ответить

  • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

  • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

  • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Ответить

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Ответить

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

lucy -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Ответить

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - Ответить

Genius. Pure genius.

Aiden Baker -

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Ответить

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Ответить

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - Ответить

Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

Michael Walker -

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - Ответить

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

Kris704 - Ответить

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Completely bummed at this point….

Alun Williams - Ответить

Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

N B - Ответить

Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

Michael Walker -

There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

Robert Smith - Ответить

Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

Andre Silva - Ответить

Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

Nace - Ответить

Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

Imre Treufeld - Ответить

  • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.

  • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Ответить

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Ответить

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Ответить

That was fun without tweezers :)

Oscar - Ответить

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Ответить

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Ответить

After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

Jere -

After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

jpfranc -

It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

Andre Silva -

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Ответить

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Bill Pennock -

I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

Daniel del Saz -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - Ответить

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - Ответить

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

Cory Powell - Ответить

This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

Toby Moncaster - Ответить

I was sweting gallons during this step!

Timothy Owens - Ответить

The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

Ron Wagner - Ответить

HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

Martin Chudomel -

This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

Whitney Hourigan - Ответить

Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

Sam Lionheart -

And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

Jake Baxter - Ответить

It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

Andre Silva - Ответить

I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

Trayvon Banks - Ответить

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

  • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Ответить

See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

Elliot Fleming - Ответить

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

  • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Ответить

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Ответить

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - Ответить

这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

Zhou Lin - Ответить

  • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Ответить

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Kelly Ann - Ответить

  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Ответить

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Ответить

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Ответить

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Ответить

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Ответить

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Ответить

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

Same problem here

Mikkel Albrechtsen -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - Ответить

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

Chris Wiley - Ответить

i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

Pierre - Ответить

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Ответить

Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

Bryan Remely - Ответить

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

Someone Somewhere - Ответить

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Scott Nacke - Ответить

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - Ответить

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - Ответить

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Rolf Enderes - Ответить

I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

Daniel Melchior - Ответить

I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Ответить

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

Nancy Zan - Ответить

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

john lawn - Ответить

  • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

      • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Ответить

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Ответить

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Ответить

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Ответить

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Ответить

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Ответить

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Ответить

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Ответить

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Ответить

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Ответить

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Ответить

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Ответить

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Ответить

That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

Andre Silva -

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Ответить

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Ответить

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Ответить

Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

jamesmclachlan -

Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

jamesmclachlan -

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Ответить

After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

Andre Silva -

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Ответить

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - Ответить

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - Ответить

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

Richard - Ответить

Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

Leonard - Ответить

Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

Leonard -

I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

patjmccarthy - Ответить

I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

Brigham Okano - Ответить

I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

Sven Siggelkow - Ответить

Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

garino1990 - Ответить

You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

Imre Treufeld - Ответить

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

Michael Schöttner - Ответить

  • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Ответить

I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

Andre Silva -

  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

  • Disconnect the LCD cable connector.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Ответить

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - Ответить

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - Ответить

Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

Bryan Remely -

No doubt about that.

Bryan Thompson - Ответить

What can I do

i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

Faheem Sameer - Ответить

At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

fele felix - Ответить

So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

Tom - Ответить

  • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Ответить

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Ответить

pure genius, this works

Oliver Markl -

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Ответить

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Ответить

Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

David - Ответить

Agree, did the same thing.

Andre Silva -

After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

Melissa - Ответить

After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

Melissa - Ответить

after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

Thanks

Nicola - Ответить

Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

Sam Lionheart -

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Ответить

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

Bryan Remely -

Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

WILL D -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Ответить

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Ответить

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Lance - Ответить

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Any tricks to getting the antenna cable fastened back in place?

Greg Mays - Ответить

Hi

try taking the small adhesive square off the top of the new connector, making the radius of the new connector more visible

Rolly - Ответить

Then replace the adhesive square

Rolly - Ответить

How important is this antenna cable? I’ve spent 2 hours trying to get it back in and I’m pretty much ready to give up on it. There was no adhesive on my cable.

Wineed - Ответить

I ended up pushing it in until it stuck enough that it stayed there until something touched it, then I screwed its cap on over it to hold it into place. It is definitely not flush in the socket, but I think it has the connection it needs and is held there by the metal plate; I can’t see any differences in the operation of my phone.

Wineed - Ответить

  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws:

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 3.6 mm screw

I stripped the smallest screw - 1.5 mm (orange circle) but the next day using a rubber band I removed it. I have new screws on order.

Steve S - Ответить

  • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry between the speaker and the rear case, lifting the speaker enough to grab with your fingers.

  • Do not attempt to pry the speaker entirely out of the case, you may break plastic tabs holding the speaker in place.

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  • Swivel the speaker downwards and toward the left of the phone to free the upper tab from underneath the logic board.

  • Slide the speaker up and to the right to free the left-hand tab from under the home button cable connector.

  • Remove the speaker from the iPhone.

On my 5S there is a "sticker tab" holding in the speaker piece. I removed it with the tweezers, and a very small metal clasp came off. I tried for about 20 minutes to put it back on, but decided it was a lost cause and didn't look very important anyway. Phone works fine now (guess it really wasn't important) but none of these steps are in the guide. I'll try adding them now.

Mike Corey - Ответить

This description differs from the video. In the video you are stepped through removing the logic board. She describes 7 screws, phillips and flat, which secure the logic board. My 5s doesn't have the flat heads and also doesn't total 7 as far as I can see.

Which instruction is correct? The video or the step by step?

Gary Tsuchiyama - Ответить

Both the Speaker and the Lightning Connector can be removed without removing the Logic Board. Just keep in mind that the top left of the Speaker is tucked under the Logic Board, and the middle left is tucked under the Touch ID connection. You need to Swivel it out. Also when replacing, make sure the Antenna doesn’t get caught underneath the Speaker.

Jayden Monkley - Ответить

  • Remove the following four Phillips #000 screws:

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 2.9 mm screw

    • One 1.5 mm screw

    • One 3.4 mm screw

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  • Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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  • The Lightning connector data cable is held to the logic board and rear case with mild adhesive.

  • Use an opening pick to slowly separate the cable from the logic board.

I found that this was tough to remove without accidental tear. If you’re wanting to reuse this part I suggest heating the back of the iPhone towards the bottom to loosen the adhesive. An iOpener works just fine.

Jayden Monkley - Ответить

  • Continue prying with the flat end of a spudger.

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  • Continue prying with an opening pick to separate the Lightning connector assembly from the rear case.

  • Be sure to separate all parts of the assembly from the rear case, including the Lightning connector, headphone jack and home button cable socket.

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  • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

  • Examine your replacement part, and your original cable carefully to be sure they match. Your replacement Lightning connector assembly may be missing certain components that need to be transferred from the original.

    • Components that commonly need to be transferred include a clip routed along the left and top edges of the headphone jack, the rubber microphone cover, and the bracket for the Touch ID cable connector.

What ever you do don't repeat my mistake!

The current microphone rubber cover needs to be removed and installed on the new microphone before installation into the phone.

The new microphone comes with adhesive with a plastic pell off covering that must be removed before installing the rubber cover. This step is missing from the ifixit.com instructions!

I reinstalled it without removing the plastic covering and my wife's microphone was totally worthless. Once removed and rubber cover reinstalled the phone works perfectly!

Really appreciate ifixit, has saved me and my family thousands of dollars over the years.

bretteasley - Ответить

thanks so much i totally would've missed it

pawansidhu77 -

Thanks foro this post. I would have missed it!

erictirado1 - Ответить

The *used (but verified)* lightening connector I ordered from iFixit was missing three things:

- Adhesive on the back of the screen connector

- Tiny foam square on the back of the antenna connector

- Rubber mic-cover

The first two can be carefully cannibalized from the broken one, and the third must be carefully removed from the broken one and refitted onto the new one. Take great care in doing this! It's a bummer iFixit doesn't provide any instructions for these steps!

Ryan McLeod - Ответить

When I did this just last night, I compared the bad lightning connector setup with the new one from iFixit, and noticed that the new one doesn't have the small metal bracket that holds the connector for the home button/fingerprint scanner in place. This bracket is right under that connector and is what the metal cover in step 8 connects to. These instructions are so detailed everywhere else, that I was surprised that this wasn't mentioned. So be careful to remove the bracket from the old connector, and put it back in the phone during reassembly. I did not need the adhesive to hold the wires, because the little cover you remove in step 8 will hold things in place.

I also noticed the missing tape on the antenna wire, and the missing mic cover, and transferred them to the new connector as well.

lee - Ответить

Can you send me your directions?

aturnaround -

The guide is absolutely perfect right up to this point. But, when it comes time to put the new part in, it completely falls apart. There are 3 components that must be switched over from your existing Lightning Connector assembly. THERE IS NO MENTION WHATSOEVER of this at all. Worse yet, I tried to submit an additional step detailing exactly what you need to swap over and where the component go, compete with closeup photos, but it was denied without explanation. I really think iFixit dropped the ball big time on this one. I'm an auto technician by trade so this setback was not an issue for me, but I have a feeling many customers will be completely confused when they reach the end of this guide as it's written.

In any case, the 3 components you need to swap over are:

- A thin stip that goes along the left and top edges of the headphone jack.

- The bracket that holds the connector into which the Touch ID cable plugs.

- The rubber microphone cover.

shaneeudy - Ответить

Notes on the 3 parts from the original you need to remove and reuse for the replacement:

1) The rubber mic cover pulls off easily. Expose the adhesive on the bottom of the new mic, and slide it into the slit in the rubber cover. To reassemble, this bends 90-deg to align the holes in the rubber cover w/the small pegs on the body of the phone.

2) The "home button bracket" : remove it & pay attention to orientation & how the home button connector bends back on itself. The original bracket has some adhesive/foam to keep the connector in place. The replacement does not have this, so there's no easy way to set the button connector for reassembly - it kind of flails around.

3) I missed the comments about the headphone jack metal grounding strip until after I'd already closed up my phone. My standard iPhone headphones still work fine w/o it, but if you leave it out you could presumably wind up w/buzzing or static.

seijihuzz01 - Ответить

  • There are several spacers loosely placed on screw posts under the Lightning connector assembly. While not essential to phone function, you should replace these washers where you found them when reassembling the phone. Spacers may vary between devices, this unit has spacers as follows:

    • One bracket

    • One C washer

    • Two small washers

  • If you are removing more components, take these pieces out and set them aside for safe keeping.

While the washer looked exactly as pictured here, my iPhone 5s had an entirely different type of bracket which encased the whole headphone jack. Also missing from this guide is the fact that you have to reuse the bracket where the home button connector is glued to, at least my replacement connector platine didn't come with one. So there's a few things to canibalize from the broken part:

The Bracket, the Washer, the home button bracket, and very important: the rubber casing of the microphone (left of the lightning connector)!

Florian Freundt - Ответить

Indeed. Thank you for your precise advice.

opilarium -

if that bracket is not put back in will the phone still work??

jai - Ответить

What is the function of the bracket?

Jan - Ответить

This guide left a lot of stuff out. If I had not studied the part I was replacing, I would have never known to pull some of the part off the old part and replace on the new.

gocaps25 - Ответить

Works well all they way until the end. The instructions for installing the replacement lightning assembly are worthless, because the new assembly looks different and requires at least one, but probably really two, additional parts (luckily I had already ordered these in anticipation). You need to order for sure order the iPhone 5s Headphone Jack Interconnect cable (item 124027-1) and very likely the iPhone 5s Microphone Gasket (item 124047-1), because the new 5s Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack / New / Black (item 124010-1) doesnt' have the interconnect cable (and the old assembly had this molded in, so it is not removable) and the microphone has glue on the back of the flex cable, so it is likely not easily removable from the old microphone gasket (I didn't even try) and it is better to insert it in a new one. Also, as mentioned by others, several other parts (tape and a metal clip assembly) have to be recovered from the old assembly and reused.

Pieter Kerstens - Ответить

Non of this is mentioned (or photographed) in any of the instructions and it takes some review of the old assembly on how to make the new one to look the same. Just a note, the assembly of the Lightning Connector and Headphone Jack / New / Black assembly with the Headphone Jack Interconnect Cable, will look different from the original assembly, but is functionally the same (and you can tell). This was very frustrating, but the other parts of the instructions are very very good!

Pieter Kerstens - Ответить

I replace light connection

and when i talk some not hear me

i have to yse spearker

Lee phan - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

328 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Sam Lionheart

Участник с: 18.10.2012

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Комментариев: 36

Can't you replace just the lightning port itself by soldering on a new one?

Josh Bacon - Ответить

It's not even worth soldering another one on when it's pretty cheap to buy another charging port flex assembly.

Ben -

I got through this successfully and it solved my problem (phone wouldn't charge/iTunes wouldn't recognize it when plugged in). With the new part it works perfectly.

Two cautions: I bought a new lightning connector assembly and I had to transfer two items from the old assembly that were not mentioned in the steps.

(1) There is a small black rubber "boot" which you can see in the step 38 photo. (on the very bottom between the lightning port and the headphone jack) Pull this off and put it in the same place on your new lightning connector assembly. It attaches to a fitting on the bottom wall of the aluminum case.

(2) There is a bracket that holds the home button connector socket in place. This is the socket that is exposed when you disconnect the home button cable in step 9. When you remove the old lightning connector assembly, this bracket needs to be transferred to the new assembly. It's attached by a small piece of double sided tape that you can salvage/reuse if you're careful!

Mike Ware - Ответить

Right well that wasn't too much fun. In my case the adhesive connecting the lcd/digitiser and the lcd shield/bracket had gone making opening the device quite difficult. The screen and digitizer were coming up with the suction cup but the lcd shield and the metal bracket with all the clips stayed firmly secured to the main case. My solution was to drive a flat metal prying tool on the battery side between the metal bracket and the inside wall of the main casing. Not for the faint of heart but I got there in the end.

No complaints with the rest of the repair and the iFixit replacement lightning assembly works flawlessly (my lighting port and headphone jack had become loose fitting causing headphones to easily pop out and making charging very difficult).

When all is re-assembled remember to do a hard reset to get touch ID working again as only the home button function works immediately after reassembly (security feature?). Thanks a million iFixit, this brick will live to see another year hopefully :)

Barry O'Neill - Ответить

Hi Barry,

Can you clarify what type of reset you had to do to get your TouchID working again as like you, only my home button is working after reassembly.

Thanks

Sean Gardner -

I've carried out the repair and everything went fine, however I can't get the screen on the phone anymore. There seems to be something stoping it closing around where the port actually is, any ideas what this is

liamrneal - Ответить

After finishing my phone: shows charging but doesn't actually charge. What's wrong?

mikehamner - Ответить

I have this same issue, I've retraced my steps but can't see what I could've done wrong.

I also had an issue with the loudspeaker prior to realising that it wasn't charging, but that is less fatal...

Simon McCormick -

Where you able to find a solution? I have the same problem too :(

Gabriel Heiler -

Just finished this project and it took me about 1.5 to 2 hours from start to finish. Here are a few things to lookout for.

1. the antenna connecting node on your new lighting blot assembly is pretty low quality as mine popped off at some point and was gone forever. I now only have half the phones antenna in use... this makes me sad.

2. You will need to use the old, original rubber housing for your microphone as the new new lighting blot assembly does not came with it.

3. You will need to use the original "home button to lighting blot assembly" housing as the new new lighting blot assembly does not came with it.

That being said, this was the absolutely first time I have ever opened any electronic device ever and I still have a somewhat working iphone aside form the antenna issue. If I can do this, anyone who knows how to take their time and read can do this no problem.

andybarbo - Ответить

great write up. was able to follow through to the end. phone still works, and i can finally charge it. don't rush and you'll be fine.

williamsmr84 - Ответить

I would not call this a "moderate" fix on the difficulty scale. Three hours of frustration and a minor meltdown, though I was successful in the end. I need a drink.

vebeard - Ответить

After 6 hours of futzing around, it is done. And I can charge my phone again... But I just want to point out that an operation that literally takes out almost every component in the phone, then puts it all back in again is more than "moderate difficulty". It's difficult. There doesn't seem to be much more out there that's worse than this procedure, as far as invasiveness is concerned.

Got caught up with things not fitting properly while putting back together. Just remember: don't force anything. Just keep looking to see what's caught or if you've got it slightly improperly positioned.

Tay - Ответить

Thank you to iFixit for the guide and the replacement part! Despite a few little missing details (now specified in the Step comments), the guide was very useful, took me like 2 hours.

To explain the situation a bit, my iPhone 5S got suddenly in Searching mode. I only realized it the morning after when I got to work. I didn't drop my phone overnight or anything. Only thing in mind, I plugged it on my charger... The day after, WiFi and everything else was working fine. When I took the SIM card out... The phone stayed in Searching mode.

Like any other phone, it got drop a few times and had a few bruises. Although, that sudden malfunction was surprising and frustrating.

I looked online and found a few sites mentioning that for an antenna issue, change the lightning port or DFU the phone (which had a risk of bricking the phone if the software wasn't the issue...)

Changed the connector, reinstalled everything and I am happy to say that IT WORKS!!

No more searching, no issue charging or listening to music!!! Thanks

John Lego - Ответить

need help please! i have replaced my lightning connector and i have two problems, one is that my earpods doesn´t work fine, just the right one does, and seems to be a problem with the lightning, shows charging but does not charge at all, and it seems to be a problem with the antenna too, please help... would it be nice if u modify the guide... the logic board is not necesary to remove...

Mati Faraci - Ответить

Where you able to solve it? I have the same problem!

Gabriel Heiler -

Es ist nicht notwendig dass Logic Board zu entfernen. Es geht auch ohne. Mich hat das entfernen des Boards zusätzlich 100€ gekostet da beim Ausbau und Einbau der Laderegler auf den Board kaputt ging und einige Filter und Kondensatoren abrissen.

Friemer - Ответить

Hello Guys, I'm from Brazil andIi follow the instructions and changed my Lightning Connector, I took 1:20 min to finish it. Now my phone can charge again. :)

Mario - Ответить

Schritt 14 bis 16 und 23 bis 25 sind gleich/doppelt. Man kann also 3 Schritte abziehen

Peter Dietrich - Ответить

Da der Lautsprecher nicht mehr funktionierte musste ich die" Lightning Connector Einheit" eines iPhone 5s austauschen dazu habe ich das Ersatzteil von iFixit bestellt da es neue "Original" Apple Teile ja nur zusammen mit einer Reparatur gibt. Der austausch hat problemlos funktioniert aber nun habe ich im Haus (der Empfang ist leider bei allen 3 Deutschen Anbietern recht schlecht) gar keinen Empfang mehr (getestet mit O2, Telekom und Vodafone), davor konnte man nach etwas "Netz-suche" wenigstens in einigen Räumen Telefonieren. Gibt es bestimmte Kabelverbindungen die ich noch überprüfen kann oder ist die Qualität des Ersatzteils was die Empfangsqualität angeht leider so schlecht?

Georg Sauer - Ответить

I was able to follow the video and lay out my parts in a magnetic parts tray and a grid I created for each step. I noted on the paper exactly how many screws/parts were used in that step. Once I dropped the screw on the grid in the parts tray, they stayed there until reassembly. It helped me out huge!

One issue I have is upon reassembly, my speaker is not working. I only get vibrate. So I had to assume that since there is no ribbon to the speaker it had to be making contact with those two contact points. I took it apart once again, and tried to re apply the charging port ribbon so that the gold contacts were exposed to the speaker module in the correct position. Any tips or tricks are appreciated.

I did have one washer after all was replaced . it was not perfectly round, but rather triangular shaped. It may have been in the spot where everyone loses the bracket/washer. I will pull it apart again tonight to see.

biff - Ответить

so I replaced both the battery and the lightning cable in mine, and once I completed the reassembly process completely, the phone still will not charge or boot up.

It did not boot up or charge before hand, so I thought it was either the battery or the lightning port. the battery got pretty beat up during disassembly, so I ordered a new one along with a new port. the port failed a test with another battery.

I have gone back multiple times to make sure the cables are connected correctly and everything, so does anyone have any idea as to what the issue is or could be?

Ethan Clement - Ответить

I've done it successfuly and it was my first time so it is possible even for beginners. I've even change the battery in the same time. It is not easy but you need time, self control and proper tools (mandatory).... But be carefull, the tutoriel hepls you to the step to change to part. But you will have to get some parts of the old lightning connector and put on the new one, so be very observative and don't throw too quickly the old part. Don't be afraid to compare them... But now i have made a second life to my lovely 5s and i'm really Happy... Thanks to this marvelous website which is really Good. I've bought all parts and tools in ifixit site and it was quick and professionnal. thanks to Ifixit. I want to repare everything now :-)

Blanchez - Ответить

what if i dont put bracket and washer again?

Christos Zachos - Ответить

I've read through this guide several times and it's not clear to me why you have to remove the screen assembly in order to replace the lightning port.

Bob Fishell - Ответить

It's not necessary to detach the screen—just recommended in order to decrease the chance of accidental damage to the display ribbon cables. If you're careful, you can certainly open it up, disconnect the battery, and then skip straight to the speaker and Lightning connector steps.

Jeff Suovanen -

My screen is now not working, showing up vertical lines and unresponsive, I was very careful but i must of knocked somthing, any one had a similar experience or have any idea how to fix it?

Tmashi - Ответить

Got my screen working again, by taking it apart and putting it back together. Now a new problem. only the apple symbol shows on the home screen been stuck like that for an hour

Tmashi -

worked a treat, was just very patient and careful when dis-assembling. Some bits did not come apart at first attempt. 'carefully wend back and redid steps, it worked. Taped sheets of paper to work area and labelled each part of the phone on the sheets as I went along also marked each step as per steps/screenshots on tutorial.

Just worked backwards on my numbered steps from my sheets. Patience is the key to getting this right first time.

Thanks for putting the tutorial together. Appreciated.

casey - Ответить

Hi all,

I’ve my iPhone 5s that discharge very fast! at least 2-3h in stan-by.. I’ve change 2 batteries and also 2 lightning connector.. it’s possible that the lighting cable is not compatible with my iPhone?

Thanks!

Lorenzo

lorenzo - Ответить

The pentalobe .8 is too big for the iPhone 5s that i tried to work on

cam72guy - Ответить

The pentalobe .8 was too big for the iPhone 5s that is was working on any ideas

cam72guy - Ответить

Here is a very detailed video on the transferal of components from one lightning connector to another. I was completely lost at step 32 in the ifixit guide which gives no explanation as to how to transfer the bits across, until I watched this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX9cIKRx...

Luke Davis - Ответить

This Guide gave me the confidence to attempt this replacement and it was helpful but I also would not have been successful with this youtube vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wX9cIKRx...

I bought the part and tools here.

My 5S stopped charging so I took it to the “Genius” ?? bar and was told they couldn’t fix my phone. i was surprised because I had seen many youtube vids and this site. But I (too) quickly decided to buy a 5SE as a replacement. I had never opened a cell phone and am a 74 year old retiree. It took me days to complete the repair but am looking forward to returning the 5SE and getting a full refund because I’m within the 14 days.

And, yes, I fully expect my children and friends to call me insufferable because of my constant bragging about being God’s Gift to cell phone repairs!!

Steve S - Ответить

Thank you!

Took me about 1 hour, everything went perfect on iPhone SE!

I didn’t have the loose spacer under the connector, but everything else was exactly as described.

danasuh - Ответить

Amazingly everything worked when I finished. The instructions are perfect. I did somehow manage to lose the touchscreen button cable cover, but no problems so far. Thanks for the help.

Tom S

Tom Stein - Ответить

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