Введение
For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire screen.
For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 8 LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.
For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid-state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.
Note: If your iPhone’s auto brightness feature does not work properly after your screen repair, make sure your iPhone is updated to iOS 12. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
Инструменты
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.
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If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.
Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.
Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.
Une bande bien positionnée suffit.
I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.
I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.
This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.
thank you!!!!!
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Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
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Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
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Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
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Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Stop near the top left corner of the display.
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Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
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Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
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Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
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Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
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Two 1.3 mm screws
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Two 2.8 mm screws
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Remove the bracket.
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.
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Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.
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Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Remove the bracket.
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Remove the display assembly.
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
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Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
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One 1.2 mm screw
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Three 1.3 mm screws
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Remove the bracket.
Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000
If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...
Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.
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Use an opening tool to pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.
To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.
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Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
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Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
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Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?
Hi Todd!
I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
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Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:
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Two 2.6 mm screws
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One 1.8 mm screw
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Lift the front facing camera up out of its socket and swing it out of the way.
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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:
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One 1.8 mm screw
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One 2.3 mm screw
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Remove the earpiece speaker.
The metal faceplate that you can see in the image on my speaker has been scratched an scored from a previous repair by someone else. Could this affect the speaker in any way?
Hi Kyle,
The metal shield should have no effect on the speaker. Granted, it may hint that damage was done around the area, which may have damaged the speaker module.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the front panel.
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Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.
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Slide an opening pick underneath front camera cable assembly, separating the adhesive holding the camera and sensor cable.
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Remove the three 1.2 mm Y000 screws from either side of the display for a total of six screws.
Bei meinem iPhone 8 handelt es sich hierbei um Y00 Schrauben, der Y000 Bit greift nicht richtig
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Heat an iOpener and lay it over the edge of the shield closest to the home button to soften the adhesive holding it in place.
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Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the flat display cable to the LCD shield plate.
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Insert an opening pick from the bottom right corner and continue to separate the display cable from the LCD shield plate.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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So I’m pretty sure I know the answer to this - but can I test out the screen replacement without hooking up the camera, home button, etc? Can I just attach the three cables to the phone to make sure the screen works, or would it brick the phone?
Hi Sarah,
You can test the display without bricking your phone. It may boot-loop when the front sensor/camera assembly isn’t connected though. Be careful while you work with an opened phone with the battery connected…it is easy to accidentally short things out!
After replacing the iPhone 8 LCD Screen and Digitizer, it seems that the battery is draining faster. I just wanted to see if this is a normal problem or was there something I missed during the install process?
Do you have to remove the plastic holder for the camera?
Hi Diego,
If your replacement part did not come with the plastic holder, you will have to transfer the old one onto the new frame.
Between step 30 and 31, a screw is removed that’s not mentioned in the guide. Should probably add what screw that was. And why.
Hi Brage,
Good catch! The screw holds the earpiece speaker flex cable in place. You do not need to remove that screw (it actually shows up again in step 33). In the meantime, I will look into correcting the step.
Is it safe to place the coins and heavy books on the iPhone 8 as it has the glass back?
Thanks for a great guide, I’ve used it a few times now. Also, great tips along the way.
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - Ответить