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Введение

For an easier repair, use our fix kit and follow this shorter guide to replace your iPhone’s entire screen.

For more advanced fixers, this guide will help you replace only the iPhone 8 LCD and digitizer assembly (a.k.a. the bare “front panel”). This requires you to transfer several components from your original screen to the new one before installing it—including the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home button assembly.

For all screen/display repairs, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function. The solid-state home button is paired to its original logic board by Apple, so replacing it will render it unusable.

Note: If your iPhone’s auto brightness feature does not work properly after your screen repair, make sure your iPhone is updated to iOS 12. True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

    An. Jahnke - Ответить

  2. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - Ответить

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - Ответить

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - Ответить

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly - Ответить

    This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

    Berggorilla -

    thank you!!!!!

    Adrian Phan -

    Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

    obo12759 - Ответить

  3. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Ответить

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Ответить

  4. Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Ответить

  5. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Ответить

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Ответить

  6. Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Stop near the top left corner of the display. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

  7. Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  8. Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display. Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  9. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

  10. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Ответить

    • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Not Y000 this time haha

    Easy Repair - Ответить

    can same length screws mixed up?

    Brook布魯克 - Ответить

    It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

    Arthur Shi -

    using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

    Mark Ordaz - Ответить

    I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

    William Mitchell -

    Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

    Kristina Graham - Ответить

    Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

    Kristina Graham -

    Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

    John Toth - Ответить

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board. Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

    Gareth - Ответить

    So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

    John M - Ответить

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket. To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  14. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

  15. Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

    Thomas Tritt - Ответить

    This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

    Jared Hensley - Ответить

    ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

    Jared Hensley - Ответить

    My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

    Ray Rushing - Ответить

    These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

    Niklas Brammer - Ответить

  16. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the  front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  17. Remove the display assembly.

    Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

    After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

    At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

    Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

    Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

    I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

    DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

    John - Ответить

    Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

    From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

    Arthur Shi -

  18. Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor: One 1.2 mm screw
    • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    • During reassembly, be careful not to overtighten these screws, or your home button may not work.

    Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000

    Andreas Veeser - Ответить

    If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

    Andy Knapp - Ответить

    Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.

    Paula Lofland -

  19. Use an opening tool to pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat end of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat end of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.
    • Use an opening tool to pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

    • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat end of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

    To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.

    forhereyesonly - Ответить

    I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.

    Cool_Breeze - Ответить

    See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.

    Kristina Graham - Ответить

  20. Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.
    • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

    • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    • Don't overheat the display. It should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

    The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

    forhereyesonly - Ответить

  21. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
    • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

    My original assembly broke trying to follow this step carefully. :(

    Ann - Ответить

  22. Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
    • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

    • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display as shown.

    • Your replacement part may come with extra Y000 screws already installed near the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screws so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

    Instructions were great. Putting the connections back is a bit of a hassle, but patience is your friend. Phone is up and running. Thanks iFixit.

    pwpfef01 - Ответить

    Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?

    Todd Skobjak - Ответить

    Hi Todd!

    I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

    Arthur Shi -

  23. Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:
    • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the earpiece bracket to the front panel:

    • Two 2.6 mm screws

    • One 1.8 mm screw

  24. Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.
    • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

  25. Lift the front facing camera up out of its socket and swing it out of the way. Lift the front facing camera up out of its socket and swing it out of the way.
    • Lift the front facing camera up out of its socket and swing it out of the way.

  26. Remove the two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:
    • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker to the front panel:

    • One 1.8 mm screw

    • One 2.3 mm screw

  27. Remove the earpiece speaker.
    • Remove the earpiece speaker.

    The metal faceplate that you can see in the image on my speaker has been scratched an scored from a previous repair by someone else. Could this affect the speaker in any way?

    Kyle Webb - Ответить

    Hi Kyle,

    The metal shield should have no effect on the speaker. Granted, it may hint that damage was done around the area, which may have damaged the speaker module.

    Arthur Shi -

  28. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the upper edge of the display to soften the adhesive holding the front camera and sensor assembly in place.

    • Wait about two minutes before moving on to the next step to adequately soften the adhesive.

  29. Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the front panel. Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.
    • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the proximity sensor out of its recess on the front panel.

    • Try to get your tool all the way under the sensor to pry it away from the clear plastic beneath. If you pry only against the cable, the sensor may separate from the cable assembly and will need replacement. If you're replacing the sensor/cable assembly anyway, then it doesn't matter.

    Achtung: sehr kritische Operation !!! Kabel löst sich sehr schnell vom Sensor…nur am Sensor arbeiten, nicht am Kabel ziehen…gut wärmen und Geduld !

    ubrunner - Ответить

  30. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

  31. Slide an opening pick underneath front camera cable assembly, separating the adhesive holding the camera and sensor cable. Slide an opening pick underneath front camera cable assembly, separating the adhesive holding the camera and sensor cable. Slide an opening pick underneath front camera cable assembly, separating the adhesive holding the camera and sensor cable.
    • Slide an opening pick underneath front camera cable assembly, separating the adhesive holding the camera and sensor cable.

  32. Remove the front camera and sensor cable.
    • Remove the front camera and sensor cable.

  33. Remove the three 1.2 mm Y000 screws from either side of the display for a total of six screws. Remove the three 1.2 mm Y000 screws from either side of the display for a total of six screws.
    • Remove the three 1.2 mm Y000 screws from either side of the display for a total of six screws.

    Bei meinem iPhone 8 handelt es sich hierbei um Y00 Schrauben, der Y000 Bit greift nicht richtig

    Andreas Veeser - Ответить

  34. Heat an iOpener and lay it over the edge of the shield closest to the home button to soften the adhesive holding it in place.
    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the edge of the shield closest to the home button to soften the adhesive holding it in place.

  35. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the flat display cable to the LCD shield plate. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the flat display cable to the LCD shield plate. Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the flat display cable to the LCD shield plate.
    • Use an opening pick to break up the adhesive near the home button that holds the flat display cable to the LCD shield plate.

  36. Insert an opening pick from the bottom right corner and continue to separate the display cable from the LCD shield plate. Insert an opening pick from the bottom right corner and continue to separate the display cable from the LCD shield plate. Insert an opening pick from the bottom right corner and continue to separate the display cable from the LCD shield plate.
    • Insert an opening pick from the bottom right corner and continue to separate the display cable from the LCD shield plate.

  37. Gently lift the LCD shield plate from the display assembly. Be careful not to snag the display data cables when removing the LCD shield plate.
    • Gently lift the LCD shield plate from the display assembly.

    • Be careful not to snag the display data cables when removing the LCD shield plate.

  38. Only the LCD and digitizer remain.
    • Only the LCD and digitizer remain.

Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

58 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Arthur Shi

Участник с: 03.01.2018

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Комментариев: 11

So I’m pretty sure I know the answer to this - but can I test out the screen replacement without hooking up the camera, home button, etc? Can I just attach the three cables to the phone to make sure the screen works, or would it brick the phone?

Sarah Ybarra - Ответить

Hi Sarah,

You can test the display without bricking your phone. It may boot-loop when the front sensor/camera assembly isn’t connected though. Be careful while you work with an opened phone with the battery connected…it is easy to accidentally short things out!

Arthur Shi -

After replacing the iPhone 8 LCD Screen and Digitizer, it seems that the battery is draining faster. I just wanted to see if this is a normal problem or was there something I missed during the install process?

Jason Adams - Ответить

Do you have to remove the plastic holder for the camera?

Diego Cisneros - Ответить

Hi Diego,

If your replacement part did not come with the plastic holder, you will have to transfer the old one onto the new frame.

Arthur Shi -

Between step 30 and 31, a screw is removed that’s not mentioned in the guide. Should probably add what screw that was. And why.

Brage Boman - Ответить

Hi Brage,

Good catch! The screw holds the earpiece speaker flex cable in place. You do not need to remove that screw (it actually shows up again in step 33). In the meantime, I will look into correcting the step.

Arthur Shi -

Is it safe to place the coins and heavy books on the iPhone 8 as it has the glass back?

Archie Cottam - Ответить

Any reason my earpiece doesn’t work after my install? Everything worked before, I wonder if its a cheap digitizer, or if i didn’t attach the speaker back flush

G S - Ответить

maybe you have damaged the flat or the earpiece isn’t correctly connected.

Sara -

Thanks for a great guide, I’ve used it a few times now. Also, great tips along the way.

Jamie Oyakawa - Ответить

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