It was my understanding that Apple stupidly swapped the ground and mic pins on their headphones so that could be why they aren't working.

8002F14E means the (BD)Drive was not found or disconnected, there was a CoreOS region failure, or there was a Revoke region failure. Source: https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Error_Code...

The safest way is to disassemble the phone and push it out from the inside. Plenty of unauthorized repair shops can do this and shouldn’t charge you more than about $20usd. Make sure you do your research before taking it anywhere. I was horrified at how poorly everyone was trained when I regrettably worked for iFixandrepair. Talk to the owner and ask to speak with the technician that will be working on your phone. Ask them if it’s okay to watch. Most trustworthy and respectable places should have no problem asnwering your questions and allowing you to watch them fix your phone if they aren’t too busy.

You need someone experienced with smd rework. Your PS3 had red light of death which is almost always caused by old capacitors. Source: https://www.psx-place.com/threads/research-experimental-nec-tokin-capacitors-replacement-ylod.25260/

You need an authentic controller to interact with the PS3 while it’s in safe mode. The screen where it tells you to plug in the controller in and press the PS after a format is part of the safe mode environment.

If your slim is a cech-2501a or older model you basically don’t need to worry about it having rlod/ylod symptoms which were for a long time attributed to cracked rsx/cell chips caused by overheating. As long as it’s kept in a well ventilated area and it doesn’t have any dust inside it should be fine as is but you definitely should replace the thermal paste every few years or so. If it’s the older model ventilation holes and new thermal paste will definitely help and more fans might as well. Mostly just make sure you’re playing in a relatively cold room and the console has plenty of room around it so it can breathe. Now as for reflows those are a terrible idea and a waste of money because it’s just a botched version of reballing which in most cases isn’t necessary anyways but can help sometimes. Usually if your PS3 has rlod or ylod it’s due to the capacitors wearing out over time. Honestly there’s basically no way without hardware modifications or reprogramming the syscon for the PS3 to get to the...

If you want to recover the PS3 data from it you need either the PS3 it cam from or the EIDroot key from the PS3 it came from which will require you to jailbreak it as well as the PS3 HDD reader program which can be found in this toolkit (https://ps3.brewology.com/downloads/down...) If you just want to use it as a secondary storage device for your computer then you just need to plug it into an open sata port and if you don’t have multiple sata ports then you need a sata usb reader like this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/173940824772?ha...) If you want to upgrade your computer’s primary storage where the OS is installed then you either need to buy an operating system installation disc which is the boot disc your computer will prompt you for or you need to clone your old laptop HDD to the one from your PS3 and then extend the data partition to fill the HDD. I use Parted Magic to clone HDD’s but it isn’t for someone not well experience with linux and terminal commands.

What’s doesn’t work with your fat PS3 now? Only the super slim models have a chance of fitting inside a fat PS3 without a lot of time and effort that won’t be worth it to anyone. Look into people converting consoles into handhelds to get an idea of how much something like that entails. It’s kind of an extreme example but fundamentally you’re doing the exact same things. It’s much more worth it for anyone to just buy a fat PS3 or fix a broken fat model. Otherwise fully disassemble the slim and fat then measure what tolerances the slim needs to be to fit inside and cut the pcb to size if most likely necessary making sure to not cut any traces. Then you'll need to source cable extentions for everything that connects to the motherboard which means for some like the bluray drive you're gonna need to order them custom made. Then you'll need to get a custom heatsink manufactured for you to keep it cool or somehow figure out a way to modify a liquid cooling system & troublshoot all that. Then after all the testing...

Is it possible to revive? Most likely. Is it practical in terms of how much time and money it would take and the skills required? No unless you love electrical engineering like I do because I’m a firm believer that you can’t put a price on education and experience especially with stuff like this that isn’t very well documented.

It will most likely be more cost effective to just replace the motherboard completely. Personally, I’d try to figure it out but I love this stuff and can spend days on troubleshooting. The satisfaction I get doing board repairs doesn’t compare with anything else.