I stuck the adhesive to the chassis first. That was messy because the plastic that covers the adhesive seems to be for screen side first. So you end up exposing both sides and those collect dust. I now realise you're supposed to put the adhesive on screen first. Not sure if it would have made much difference in the outcome (mine screen is not stuck in some places).

I used a playing card cut to shape. I had to make a couple, to try a few times.. It does go in eventually. Not deep, but enough to break connection. You can test by trying to switch on iPad.

i used a proper suction tile puller (small one from DIY store used to hold bathroom tiles) to lift the screen off after heating around the edge using a heat gun. Be careful - It didn't damage anything. The tiny suction things that come with those iPhone kits are not strong enough for this. The one in picture might be good, but looks similar to the kits ones that have key ring.

I used this guide to remove and replace a cracked screen from iPad Air 3 successfully. My comments are in the sections above , i summarise here (1) i used a proper suction tile puller (small one from DIY store used to hold bathroom tiles) to lift the screen off after heating around the edge using a heat gun. (2) You must disconnect the battery before plugging the new screen. I think i didn't break the circuit in first attempt and shorted the screen, the result was half of the screen didn't work. I used playing card. (3) The adhesive that came with the new screen is not that great or maybe i'm doing something wrong with it. The first time i used it, i heat gunned the edge (adhesive on), and parts of the screen still wouldn't stick. So i used a second set, and tried not to touch the adhesive, i used tweezers alot. It was a bit better second time, but, the case we have wraps over screen, holds it on.

When replacing the screen; the adhesive that came with the new screen is not that great or maybe i'm doing something wrong with it. The first time i used it, i heat gunned the edge, and parts of the screen still wouldn't stick. So i used a second set, and tried not to touch the adhesive, i used tweezers alot. It was a bit better second time, but, the case we have wraps around the edge of screen, and is basically holding giving extra confidence to hold screen on.

You must disconnect the battery before plugging the new screen. I think i didn't break the circuit in first attempt and shorted the screen, the result was half of the screen didn't work. I used a playing card. Second attempt was successful with new screen.

What width/size Tesa tape (mm) do we require?

What’s the switch for on the inside of the caddy? What position should it be in? Mine came switched to the right (towards SATA connector that disk inserts into).