I’m sure there is a way to measure the voltage off the board, but to be honest with you, these boards are so inexpensive on ebay you might be better off just buying one and out and out replacing it. I purchased one of these borads(or similar, i have a 2011 15” unibody mbp) for my computer just this week and I paid a grand total of $5.95 including shipping. If this doesn’t make the computer start working(remember that if it’s been powered down for a long period of time that you will need to let it charge for a little while before turning it on, but the light on the magsafe board should light up in a few seconds if it is working after you replace it) then you probably knocked something loose on your logic board, and that is neither a cheap nor easy fix, and you’d probably be better off just scrapping the thing. If this answer helped you please give it a thumbs up, and if you need more assistance please post it to this thread so I can be notified. Good luck!

Looks like the screen back case is fine if you only want to buy the display itself, but that is going to make it more difficult to change cause you'll have to get the old one all the way out of that back case. If you buy one with the back case it'll be more expensive, but easier to swap, since you'll really only have to take off the entire screen and back case, unplug it from the board, and plug the new one in and attach it to the bottom case(bearing in mind there are other components you'll have to remove and reinstall regardless of which one you buy. Which one you buy will all depends on your level of expertise and confidence.

Are you certian that the camera stops working, or is the lense blocked just making everything black on the screen? You might simply have it positioned it in your phone wrong and thats causing it to not get a clear view out of the front of the screen causing the problem you are experiencing. Did your new screen come with those two little plastic brackets for the front facing camera and ambiant light sensor? If not you need to chip them off you old screen and superglue them onto your new one. Just take a pair of tweezers to handle the bracket, put a drop of superglue on a piece of cardboard or something disposable, and lightly dip the bracket into the glue on the side you are gluing down, then quickly get it on your new screen.

Well its either your tcon or main board. The power board is where the power comes in from the line and is then converted into DC and broken up into different various voltages for the other boards' functions and the inverter board is what runs the backlights for the TV. One thing that might help you determine what to replace is sound. Can you hear the TV show or movie while the screen goes grey? If you can then it's probably not your main board; it has all the inputs and outputs for the TV including audio, if it doesn't have sound I'd lean towards the main board being bad. Unfortunately with limited skills and no trobleshooting ability you may have to replace both boards to solve this problem.

Logic board is most likely the culprit, I'd say. I'd guess the portion responsible for the display is desoldered or just bad. Back up to iTunes and replace the board then setup from back up (if customer wants to spend that much, probably same price to buy a newer used model off of CL.

Ebay. It will also generally be the cheapest. Sounds like you are looking for the "digitizer" or "glass and digitizer" not the "display, glass, and digitizer".

As far as markings I dunno. On circuit boards L is typically an inductor. You may have seen their bigger counterparts in older electronics as a wire wrapped around a ring. They are used as current limiters and in passive filters mostly. You may be able to take the part off the board and there may be markings on the backside, but it's hit or miss, it also looks as if you may have some trace damage. If you can get ahold of a schematic and find the value you might try calling digikey (# at digikey.com) and talking to a tech. When they ask about the package it's a surface mount or SOIC.

Its most likely not. Typically when a power supply goes bad it supplies under voltage not over voltage, which typically doesn't damage sensitive electronics. Caps in power supplies typically act as waveform smoothers that make the dc a more steady level. You may have drained your CMOS battery so you may have to change your time/date but in most computers the rest should be fine.

I don't know if it'll work, but try powerbookmedic.com. The latest set they have is for nov 2011 models. They're not cheap at 39.95 plus shipping, but it sounds like youre desperate and I know they'll work if the model is the same design.