Does the cruise control disengage when the brakes are engaged? If so, I'd look for a broken wire somewhere between switch and light. Also, not trying to insult you, but you did check the bulb, right? (I've been busted by this myself!!!)

Squiggle, the door switch interrupts power to the hi-voltage/maggie units. 20A is a lot of current. Blowing this up only when the door is closed indicates a short circuit somewhere in the high power usage circuitry. Did you try using your ohmmeter to see if the resistance from the line voltage wire to ground is low when the power is disconnected? (Be careful when working around the HV circuitry; the capacitors - which could be the problem - can zap you even when power has been removed for some time.) Start disconnecting things until the resistance goes up appreciably. (Note: I don’t have one of these particular units, so this is just general advice, not specific to your unit.)

Ray, when you “powered off,” did you completely pull the plug on power? I have strange problems like this occasionally, but have “cured” them most times by pulling the plug out of the wall, waiting for a minute or so, then re-starting. Also, what - exactly - do you mean by “streaming services”? Cable box? Computer? Other?

Turns out the answer to my problem is: If rebuilding the mailbox should fail, quit Mail.app and then delete "/Users/yourusername/Library/Mail/Envelope Index." When you relaunch Mail.app, it will reimport all of your mail from scratch, effectively rebuilding every index for every mailbox.

Alan, the machine probably won't "turn on" without a battery. The green light indicates the battery is fully charged; it says nothing about the condition of the logic board beyond the charging circuitry.

Jackie, water is a byproduct of combustion. Look at the tailpipe of almost any running engine; it’ll be dripping.

Mauricio, if you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage across the same pads you shorted. Should read battery voltage in the “off” condition. Is any change detected when you press the “start” switch? (The green light on the charging Magsafe connector indicates no charging current flow, i.e., the battery is fully charged.) I had this problem; turned out to be a defunct “start” switch, but shorting the power pads got things going, so…

The most likely problem is a broken drive belt. Depending on your model, this may be either on top of the deck or underneath. If that's not the problem, it could be broken drive shafts or stripped gears in the transmission. You'll have to do a bit more troubleshooting...

Uh, Charles...there's usually a _reason_ fuses blow. Their purpose is to save power supplies and upstream components. Therefore, there was probably a short circuit downstream from the fuse to begin with. Failing to remove power from the unit before applying a soldering tool was a _major_ malfunction! At this point, the problem could be a blown component / circuit trace anywhere in the system! Good luck...

It appears this question has been answered...