(quote)

"Keeping the display at a 90 degree angle with the case, move the display straight down while holding the case still, so that the hinges slide out the bottom of the case."

(end quote)

If you're moving the display straight down, how does it "slide out"? I do ge the point, but this instruction could stand a tad amount of re-wording.

Lamar's suggestion to view the video is excellent. Though I saw it only in arrears, it was quite valuable. I found a spudge, used to GENTLY pry both side first, then begin lifting on your right side (with back of laptop facing you) while gently twisting slightly inward to do the trick.

Probably the worst moment in this repair.

DLC

Step 5 mentions using a T3 Torx screwdriver - not so on my unit - magnification reveals 2 Pentalobe screws, what size I know not, though they are not P5. Any advice?

Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

Hello Jeff,

Thank you for responding. one may regard “disconnecting” as actually unplugging or unsocketing a cable connection as actually disconnecting, like in step 37. I could picture a person tugging on the pick thinking that the battery connector actually had to be lifted away from the board.

Probably over-thinking it! ;-)

Regards,

DLC

I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.

Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.

Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.

Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions

Would it not be important to note that you are not really “disconnecting” the conduit of the battery from the logic board, but rather isolating the connection?

Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.