First, make sure that you have run the hot water in your sink long enough to remove any cold water in the pipe between the water heater and the sink. That way you aren't starting out with a tub of cold water. Second, make sure that you turn on any extra heat for the wash and/or rinse cycles. The water heater is supposed to be set at 120 degrees, and the further it travels to get to the dishwasher, the cooler it gets. Turning on the heat boost raises the temp to 140 degrees+ in the dishwasher, which will dissolve the pacs and keep the machine a whole lot cleaner inside. I sincerely hope that someone didn't hook the dishwasher water supply up to the cold water line. And, yes, it has been done. If that's the case, it needs to be corrected pronto.

That noise you're hearing tells me that there is most likely something down in the sump that the pump impeller or soft food macerator is grinding against. You will have to disassemble the sump to get down to the pump impeller and remove the offending debris. If you still have a lot of hard water deposits after you find the offending debris and reassemble things, you can clean out the deposits quite effectively with muriatic acid. Start with an EMPTY dishwasher, start it and let it run through the short prewash cycle, let it refill with water and start running again, then open the door and very carefully and slowly pour about 1 cup of the muriatic acid into the water, close the door, and let it run full cycle. The mineral deposits will be gone and the inside of the dishwasher will look like new. For those with stainless steel tubs, go VERY light on the acid or you will not be very happy with the nice brown tint that the stainless will have after . You haven't lived until you have had to hand polish the...

First, look at the heat coil in the bottom of the tub to see if there is any visual damage, such as a melted or burned through spot. If you see a spot like that, the element is bad and needs replacing. Otherwise, the dishwasher needs to be pulled out so the heating element can be checked at its terminals on the bottom (unless you're lucky enough that the terminals are at one of the front corners, as they are on some units) outside of the tub with a multimeter set to ohms. Depending upon the manufacturer, the element should read 15 to 25 ohms of resistance. If it reads "0", then it's bad and needs replacing.

Taking it apart "professionally" is one thing. Putting it back together "professionally" is another. You are most likely going to have to (one piece at a time) take it apart once again to find the issue. The "odd noise" is probably something that ended up in the drain pump that should not be there and is restricting the flow of the drain water. If the unit doesn't have a separate drain pump (as most G.E.'s do not), but rather a drain valve that is opened and closed by a solenoid and linkage (as most G.E.'s do), then you most likely have something that was left or fell into the pump sump that you didn't notice while you were reassembling things. That will cause noise pretty much whenever the pump is running. Whatever's in there is most likely blocking the drain valve open, allowing water in the drain line at the end of the wash to run right back into the machine.

If you want to know if there are any other leaks before spending $70 + installation on a new inlet water valve, just pour a bucket of water into the dishwasher and run it to see if there are any leaks. You have to put enough water in there so that the float switch ( on the bottom right or left front corner of the tub) knows that there's enough water to wash properly. You may , if something has frozen and cracked or broken, find a leak even before you run it, so pour the water in slowly while someone with a flashlight keeps watch under the unit for leaks. If you don't see any, then put enough water in to run it to see if it leaks under pressure. If you find that all you need is the inlet water valve, they are easy to replace, so don't waste money having it installed. Good luck!

Broken counterbalance spring on one side of the door or the other. You'll have to pull the unit out to see which side and replace it. Too bad you aren't my neighbor. I have a box full of them amongst all my parts.

When you say that it "doesn't come on", I presume that you mean that nothing lights up on the control panel, so, depending upon the make and model of the unit, there may be a fuse mounted on the mother board that has popped and needs replacing. Replacement will require removal of the control panel, and the fuses are not just simple automotive style glass fuses , but rather proprietary types, so you need to open up the panel, find the fuse, test it for continuity, and if it is blown, find a replacement. The least expensive place that I have found for replacement dishwasher thermal fuses is ebay. And make sure that the fuse you purchase is NEW, and not just a used one salvaged from a scrapped dishwasher

That flat piece of rubber is the anti backflow flap that most likely came either just before or just after the drain pump, and the little "handle" is its mounting hinge. You will have to look in the end of the hose that you disconnected or the piece of grey plastic pipe to see if there's a corresponding molded in spot for that hinge. If you don't find a mounting spot there, then it must be located in where the water enters the drain pump from the tub.

I received a microwave to repair and resell a few months ago with the identical problem. Everything worked except that it refused to heat, so the problem was obviously not the ceramic fuse(s) hidden inside microwave ovens. I removed the outer cover, shorted the super capacitor so I wouldn't get zapped, and proceeded to investigate. I did go ahead and check the fuse just for the heck of it, but if it had been blown the microwave would have been totally dead. No lights, no nuthin'. I noticed that there were 3 micro safety switches on the door latch assembly. Upon testing each, I discovered that the top two were working just fine, but the third one at the bottom was not working. I proceeded to replace it with a like switch that I had salvaged from another appliance, tested the oven, and it has since worked perfectly.

If the microwave still light up, then it's not a fuse. the ceramic fuses are on the incoming power supply, so if it blows, you'll have nothing, as in no lights, fan, turntable, etc. There are numerous bi-metal fuses scattered around the unit, designed and located to detect overheat situations, but they should reset after cool down. Possible problem could be the magnetron itself (the thing that generates the microwaves), the super capacitor, or any of a miriad of electronic components on the circuit boards. As oldturkey03 mentioned, the fuse is easily replaced. Worst part is getting to most of them, which requires taking the unit down and removing a dozen or so screws that hold the outer shell on (and then remembering which screws go where upon reassembly). Anything else should be done by a professional. Unfortunately, given what it costs to have a repair done as opposed to simply replacing the unit, the latter is the easier and likely less costly route to take.