This is going to be bad caps or a bad hard drive and data cable. It's probably caps.
+
The iMac G5 is prone to blown capacitors. This is typically the problem on many iMac G5s.
-
If your drive is this slow, I'd start with checking the caps with an ESR meter. Good ESR meters have a approximate tolerance list on them. However, do not rely on this. Get the datasheet for this information. A reference chart will never be as accurate as say, a datasheet with the real numbers.
+
To make sure the caps aren't bad, get an ESR meter and check the caps. You may need to scrape the conformal coating off of the board but it is possible to access the leads for the caps. If you can, desolder the caps and check them off of the board; bad caps can screw up in-circuit reading.
-
You may even need to desolder them to get an accurate reading. This is even recommended to prevent false readouts.
+
As far as the tolerance goes, it's best to rely on the manufacturer datasheet. Good ESR meters generally include a ESR chart, but this is approximate.
-
If new caps don't help then replace the drive. These are old enough to warrant new drives. You should replace them every 4-5 years, generally. However, many live longer then this. It's just after 4-5 years, they can get unreliable. It's a good practice. You can use them in less crucial machines.
+
If you replace the caps and it's slow, the hard drive is failing. As a general rule, these drives fail in 4-5 years. Many drives live past this, but there's no guarantee how long it will last beyond 4-5 years. It's a good practice to retire older drives with higher hours before they fail, since you can move the drive to another system that's less critical.
-
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems left and right relating to the TAB on the panels. To make matters worse Apple used TDMS. You can't easily swap these like LVDS with a Apple EDID injector. You have to buy the crappy Apple panel. Apple stops making parts for these after 5 years. The G5 iMac was garbage from the beginning and over the years the rest that made it after 5 years are showing their true colors. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
+
If you continue having problems, just replace the system. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap as a whole. They are prone to bad caps, excessive temperatures and display TAB problems. All of this is compounded by a TDMS panel, which is nearly impossible to find and difficult to replace since the machine looks for an Apple display EDID (without an injector). Apple has stopped selling parts for these machines years ago, so whatever is left is generally on life support and is prone to CCFL backlight burnouts or higher TAB failure rates.
+
From the beginning, the G5 iMac was never very good. They were fine early on but degraded quickly as they aged. ANY surviving machines will fail due to caps or display issues, given a few more years. I'd get a Intel iMac and cut your losses on this one.
This is going to be bad caps or a bad hard drive and data cable. It's probably caps.
-
If your drive is this slow, I'd start with checking the caps with an ESR meter. Good ESR meters have a approximate tolerance list on them. However, do not rely on this. Get the datasheet for this information. A reference chart will never be as accurate as say, a reference list with approximate numbers.
+
If your drive is this slow, I'd start with checking the caps with an ESR meter. Good ESR meters have a approximate tolerance list on them. However, do not rely on this. Get the datasheet for this information. A reference chart will never be as accurate as say, a datasheet with the real numbers.
You may even need to desolder them to get an accurate reading. This is even recommended to prevent false readouts.
If new caps don't help then replace the drive. These are old enough to warrant new drives. You should replace them every 4-5 years, generally. However, many live longer then this. It's just after 4-5 years, they can get unreliable. It's a good practice. You can use them in less crucial machines.
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems left and right relating to the TAB on the panels. To make matters worse Apple used TDMS. You can't easily swap these like LVDS with a Apple EDID injector. You have to buy the crappy Apple panel. Apple stops making parts for these after 5 years. The G5 iMac was garbage from the beginning and over the years the rest that made it after 5 years are showing their true colors. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
This is going to be bad caps or a bad hard drive and data cable. It's probably caps.
If your drive is this slow, I'd start with checking the caps with an ESR meter. Good ESR meters have a approximate tolerance list on them. However, do not rely on this. Get the datasheet for this information. A reference chart will never be as accurate as say, a reference list with approximate numbers.
You may even need to desolder them to get an accurate reading. This is even recommended to prevent false readouts.
If new caps don't help then replace the drive. These are old enough to warrant new drives. You should replace them every 4-5 years, generally. However, many live longer then this. It's just after 4-5 years, they can get unreliable. It's a good practice. You can use them in less crucial machines.
-
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems left and right relating to the TAB on the panels. To make matters worse Apple used TDMS. You can't easily swap these like LVDS with a Apple EDID injector. You have to buy the crappy Apple panel. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
+
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems left and right relating to the TAB on the panels. To make matters worse Apple used TDMS. You can't easily swap these like LVDS with a Apple EDID injector. You have to buy the crappy Apple panel. Apple stops making parts for these after 5 years. The G5 iMac was garbage from the beginning and over the years the rest that made it after 5 years are showing their true colors. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
This is going to be bad caps or a bad hard drive and data cable. It's probably caps.
+
This is going to be bad caps or a bad hard drive and data cable. It's probably caps.
If your drive is this slow, I'd start with checking the caps with an ESR meter. Good ESR meters have a approximate tolerance list on them. However, do not rely on this. Get the datasheet for this information. A reference chart will never be as accurate as say, a reference list with approximate numbers.
+
You may even need to desolder them to get an accurate reading. This is even recommended to prevent false readouts.
-
If new caps don't help then replace the drive. These are old enough to warrant new drives. You should replace them every 4-5 years, generally. However, many live longer then this. It's just after 4-5 years, they can get unreliable. It's a good practice. You can use them in less crucial machines.
+
If new caps don't help then replace the drive. These are old enough to warrant new drives. You should replace them every 4-5 years, generally. However, many live longer then this. It's just after 4-5 years, they can get unreliable. It's a good practice. You can use them in less crucial machines.
-
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
+
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems left and right relating to the TAB on the panels. To make matters worse Apple used TDMS. You can't easily swap these like LVDS with a Apple EDID injector. You have to buy the crappy Apple panel. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
Usually, when a drive slows down this much,it is failing
+
This is going to be bad caps or a bad hard drive and data cable. It's probably caps.
-
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
+
If your drive is this slow, I'd start with checking the caps with an ESR meter. Good ESR meters have a approximate tolerance list on them. However, do not rely on this. Get the datasheet for this information. A reference chart will never be as accurate as say, a reference list with approximate numbers.
+
You may even need to desolder them to get an accurate reading. This is even recommended to prevent false readouts.
-
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive, however,your replacement drive may be bad too,exchange it and try again
+
If new caps don't help then replace the drive. These are old enough to warrant new drives. You should replace them every 4-5 years, generally. However, many live longer then this. It's just after 4-5 years, they can get unreliable. It's a good practice. You can use them in less crucial machines.
-
== update ==
-
-
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and power cables
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
-
-
[guide|942]
-
-
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
-
-
[guide|951]
-
-
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, they're best reballed if the SATA controller can be reballed, so google any and all part numbers that look like the SATA controller for it
+
If you still have problems then I would give up on it. The iMac G5 is a piece of crap. They kill caps, get hotter then the sun and have display problems. This machine will become a rabbit hole if you try and repair it further. Cut your losses and move on.
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
-
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, personally I have had bad luck on 1 or 2 DV laptops in the past at 385, but bumped them up to 400 after the 2nd with sucsess fixing ones I got from friends and craigslist for 5$ ;)
-
-
Use a heatgun on 400-425 and warm the whole board up to prevent expansion and then take that heatgun around all the chips in case the solder is breaking down on the iMac elsewhere
-
-
LEAVE THE BOARD IN ONE PLACE AND DO NOT TOUCH TILL COOL!!!
-
-
Put it in the iMac and see what happens
-
-
No ABCellars, I DO NOT use my oven reflow for customers, I change the boards completely, I don't and never will reflow customer machines till I find a way to make it last
-
-
Your call, replace the board, reflow, or see if it can be reballed
+
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, they're best reballed if the SATA controller can be reballed, so google any and all part numbers that look like the SATA controller for it
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, personally I have had bad luck on 1 or 2 DV laptops in the past at 385, but bumped them up to 400 after the 2nd with sucsess fixing ones I got from friends and craigslist for 5$ ;)
Use a heatgun on 400-425 and warm the whole board up to prevent expansion and then take that heatgun around all the chips in case the solder is breaking down on the iMac elsewhere
LEAVE THE BOARD IN ONE PLACE AND DO NOT TOUCH TILL COOL!!!
Put it in the iMac and see what happens
-
No ABCellars, I DO NOT use my oven reflow for customers, I change the boards completely!
+
No ABCellars, I DO NOT use my oven reflow for customers, I change the boards completely, I don't and never will reflow customer machines till I find a way to make it last
Your call, replace the board, reflow, or see if it can be reballed
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, personally I have had bad luck on 1 or 2 DV laptops in the past at 385, but bumped them up to 400 after the 2nd with sucsess fixing ones I got from friends and craigslist for 5$ ;)
Use a heatgun on 400-425 and warm the whole board up to prevent expansion and then take that heatgun around all the chips in case the solder is breaking down on the iMac elsewhere
LEAVE THE BOARD IN ONE PLACE AND DO NOT TOUCH TILL COOL!!!
Put it in the iMac and see what happens
No ABCellars, I DO NOT use my oven reflow for customers, I change the boards completely!
+
+
Your call, replace the board, reflow, or see if it can be reballed
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, personally I have had bad luck on 1 or 2 DV laptops in the past at 385, but bumped them up to 400 after the 2nd with sucsess fixing ones I got from friends and craigslist for 5$ ;)
Use a heatgun on 400-425 and warm the whole board up to prevent expansion and then take that heatgun around all the chips in case the solder is breaking down on the iMac elsewhere
+
LEAVE THE BOARD IN ONE PLACE AND DO NOT TOUCH TILL COOL!!!
Put it in the iMac and see what happens
No ABCellars, I DO NOT use my oven reflow for customers, I change the boards completely!
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
-
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and this is built in to the logicboard, you will have to buy a logicboard, if this is why, the board's worthless and I suggest trying this before you buy a whole new board
+
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and you would need to buy a whole new board for it, and no, I do not suggest reflowing iMac motherboards in the oven like before, personally I have had bad luck on 1 or 2 DV laptops in the past at 385, but bumped them up to 400 after the 2nd with sucsess fixing ones I got from friends and craigslist for 5$ ;)
+
+
Use a heatgun on 400-425 and warm the whole board up to prevent expansion and then take that heatgun around all the chips in case the solder is breaking down on the iMac elsewhere
+
LEAVE THE BOARD IN ONE PLACE AND DO NOT TOUCH TILL COOL!!!
+
+
Put it in the iMac and see what happens
+
+
No ABCellars, I DO NOT use my oven reflow for customers, I change the boards completely!
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and this is built in to the logicboard, you will have to buy a logicboard, if this is why, the board's worthless and I suggest trying this before you buy a whole new board
-
Take the board out, chip side up and put tinfoil balls under it on a cookie sheet
-
Preheat the over for 350-385 for 5 minutes and put the board in and keep a timer
-
Pull the board out CAREFULLY, the solder's molten and something may fall out, remove it slowly
-
When cooled, put it in the computer and see what happens
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
-
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and this is built in to the logicboard, you will have to buy a logicboard
+
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and this is built in to the logicboard, you will have to buy a logicboard, if this is why, the board's worthless and I suggest trying this before you buy a whole new board
+
Take the board out, chip side up and put tinfoil balls under it on a cookie sheet
+
Preheat the over for 350-385 for 5 minutes and put the board in and keep a timer
+
Pull the board out CAREFULLY, the solder's molten and something may fall out, remove it slowly
+
When cooled, put it in the computer and see what happens
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive, however, your replacement drive may be bad too, exchange it and try again
== update ==
-
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
+
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and power cables
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and this is built in to the logicboard, you will have to buy a logicboard
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive, however, your replacement drive may be bad too, exchange it and try again
+
== update ==
+
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
Now remove the display assembly and find these connectors and remove these ONLY
[guide|942]
Just in case, here's the logicboard removal guide to find the connectors
[guide|951]
-
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point
+
If replacing the data cable did no justice, sadly the SATA controller is likely dead at this point and this is built in to the logicboard, you will have to buy a logicboard
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
-
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive
-
+
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive, however, your replacement drive may be bad too, exchange it and try again
+
== update ==
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive
+
+
I was doing a little eBay hunting and found the data and powe cables, however, you can use a off-the shelf cable in thee G5, however, it is going to be tough to fit and you will have trouble reassembling the computer after
Usually, when a drive slows down this much, it is failing
Try reinstalling the OS clean first, but back up your data first
If it sill does this, time for a harddrive