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LTE-enabled variant of the fifth generation of iPad, released in March 2017. Available with 32 and 128 GB storage options featuring a 9.7" Retina display and 64-bit A9 processor.

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Identifying which fault is preventing my Ipad from charging

The issue and where I’m at:

My 5th gen Ipad a1822 stopped charging shortly after it took a small fall. There are some data and contacts I want to recover from the device, these are fairly important to me and I am willing to spend some money to recover them.

I assume the most likely problems are a fault with the battery, the charging port or some sort of short on the PCB.

I’ve tried a variety of working charging cables, in doing so I observed that the device was still recognizing the cables being plugged in, as the low battery symbol showed up and when I removed the cable, it showed up with the additional lightning cable symbol below the flashing battery one.

But it won’t show the active charging symbol or gain any power. When I connect it to my desktop, it doesn’t detect.

I am assuming there are no other faults with the device because it was working before I let it run out of power. I read some suggestions to reset due to software issues preventing a charge. However, I can’t home screen+power button reset, then again I’ve never tried that from the low battery black screen state, I’m not sure if that is indicative of anything.

My questions are;

Is it an accurate deduction that problem is most likely the battery? Or could it be some connection inside, a short, or even still be the power port despite appearing to detect the cable plugging in and out?

What are my options and what would you do?

Further info:

Repair shops around me (Western Australia) are rather costly, about $150 USD just for the port replacement, I’m not sure about batteries, but I’m sure they’ll tack on another $70-100 USD - I’ll be calling around tomorrow for more information.

I could use this opportunity to practice some tinkering, for a little over $150 USD I can pick up a heat gun / solder / ifixitkit / adhesive / new battery and charging port.

Half a decade ago I replaced some iphone screens, but I have no experience tinkering or repairing apple products and the tight form factor and digitizer are quite intimidating.

Thanks in advance.

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hello John,

I don't see any chance for repair at home (without equipment and knowledge). The iPad is the one that crashes the most when handled inappropriately. You'll have to remove the screen, it's simple, though repair shops often charge $ 75 extra for fault coverage. You'll have to remove the motherboard - that's where the most problems are. Many technicians have failed at this stage. No experience, rush ... after all, no elementary knowledge of microelectronics. Most rely on YouTube - that's wrong. The lack of schematics makes it difficult, so only experienced electronics can manage somehow. Don't do it at home, it is beyond your technical capabilities and (I guess) knowledge. It is no longer a screen replacement, but an intervention in the electronics of the device, with all the consequences. My advice, find a good repair shop or user who has been through a similar problem in your area (I will try to get you in touch with someone I know who had a similar problem - west AU if I remember correctly). Maybe something will brighten :-)

But remember, never ever take your tablet to an unproven repair shop if you want to see it working again. This is a really difficult device to diagnose and repair, I won't mention the manual skills required.

And finally, answering your question: <br><li>

  • it's definitely not a battery
  • charging port, it depends on how it has behaved in the last few weeks. It is possible.  Bay the way, you’ll break it when removing the motherboard, so it's worth having a backup ;-)
  • short circuit in electronics or broken connection, motherboard imaging required. This is most likely in my experience. It seems to me that it will be quite cheap to visualize it: buy yourself a USB A(amper) meter from $ 4-5 (it will be useful in the future), make a measurement of the attempt to run through the lighting cable. You can learn many things this way.
    1. the indication 0.000 is rather a problem with the usb, cable and maybe the charging tape,
    2. up to 0.250 usb resource management or PMU problem (Power Manager Unit),
    3. 0.350 - DFU mode,
    4. more up to 0.750 - after trying to start - short circuit in the logical line,
    5. 0.850-1.120 normal charging of an empty battery,
    6. 1.200 and more up to 3.000 - short circuit in the main power bus (with such a current no kidding, turn off and find a workshop)


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