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Введение

Use this guide to replace the upper case of the 2018 MacBook Air, including the keyboard. This involves removing all the parts in the MacBook and transferring them to a new upper case. Make sure to keep track of screws and small parts so that they can be easily reinstalled in the new upper case.

Due to overlapping prerequisite guides, there are some repeated steps and inconsistencies in the photos. These are expected and do not effect the procedure. If you notice a repeated step, skip it and continue with the procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Do not reuse the battery if it is swollen or was deformed in any way during the procedure. The battery is likely damaged and can be very dangerous to reuse—it should be replaced.

This guide involves removing the speakers and battery. You will need new adhesive to reinstall the speakers and battery.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.
    • Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.

    • If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:

    • Two 7.9 mm screws

    • Two 7.1 mm screws

    • Six 2.6 mm screws

    If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

    maccentric - Ответить

  2. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case.

    Das geht etwas schwer, da das Unterteil mittig noch von 2 Druckverschlüssen gehalten wird.

    facebook - Ответить

  3. Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.
    • Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

  4. Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

    Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

    Aaron Dalziel - Ответить

    This seems like an important step?

    maccentric -

    Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

    maccentric -

    What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?

    Iron05 -

    I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

    All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

    William Lane - Ответить

  5. Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

    What do you do to get the speaker to stick once you put things back together? Are these adhesive strips reusable? If not, where can we get new ones?

    Ryan - Ответить

    The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.

    Peter Newman -

  6. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

  7. Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:

    • Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.

    • Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

  8. Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.
    • Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

  9. Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the left speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the left speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

  10. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker. With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board. With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the left speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

    • With the connector disconnected, slide the flat end of a spudger under the cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable to the logic board.

  11. Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the left speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the left speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:

    • Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.

    • Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

  12. Lift the left speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.
    • Lift the left speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

  13. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.
    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

  14. Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the three 1.4 mm screws securing the audio board cable bracket. Remove the cable bracket.
    • Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the three 1.4 mm screws securing the audio board cable bracket.

    • Remove the cable bracket.

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the audio board connector straight up and disconnect it. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the audio board connector straight up and disconnect it.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the audio board connector straight up and disconnect it.

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Touch ID sensor connector straight up and disconnect it. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Touch ID sensor connector straight up and disconnect it.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the Touch ID sensor connector straight up and disconnect it.

  17. Remove the following screws:
    • Remove the following screws:

    • Two 4.3 mm, T5 Torx screws

    • One 2.4 mm, T4 Torx screw

    In my case, the audio board was mounted with two 4.3 mm T4 screws and one 2.4 mm T3 screw.

    benston - Ответить

  18. Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Touch ID sensor cable to slice through the adhesive securing it to the audio board.
    • Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Touch ID sensor cable to slice through the adhesive securing it to the audio board.

  19. Remove the audio board.
    • Remove the audio board.

  20. Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.
    • Peel back the black tape covering the fan cable connector.

  21. Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector. Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector. Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the fan cable out of the ZIF connector.

  22. Slide an opening pick under the audio board cable to slice through the adhesive securing it to the fan. Slide an opening pick under the audio board cable to slice through the adhesive securing it to the fan. Slide an opening pick under the audio board cable to slice through the adhesive securing it to the fan.
    • Slide an opening pick under the audio board cable to slice through the adhesive securing it to the fan.

  23. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the three 2.7 mm screws securing the fan.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the three 2.7 mm screws securing the fan.

  24. Lift the fan out of the case and remove it.
    • Lift the fan out of the case and remove it.

    Fan ribbon cable was fattened on to case with glue. Used a flat metal blade type tool to gently separate ribbon cable from case.

    lamajr - Ответить

  25. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket. Remove the antenna cable bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the antenna cable bracket.

    • Remove the antenna cable bracket.

  26. Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector. Pry straight up to disconnect the cable. Repeat for the other antenna cable.
    • Insert the point of a spudger under one of the antenna cables close to the connector.

    • Pry straight up to disconnect the cable.

    • Repeat for the other antenna cable.

  27. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket. Remove the display cable connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the display cable connector bracket.

    • Remove the display cable connector bracket.

  28. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display cable connector.

  29. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws:

    • Four 7.4 mm screws

    • Two 4.5 mm screws

    The tool list does not list a T5.

    William Meyers - Ответить

  30. Lift the antenna bar straight up and out of the case. Take care not to snag the antenna bar on any cables or connectors. You may encounter resistance from the clips in the middle of the antenna bar holding it in the case. You may pull hard without damaging anything as long as you pull straight up, perpendicular to the case. Remove the antenna bar.
    • Lift the antenna bar straight up and out of the case. Take care not to snag the antenna bar on any cables or connectors.

    • You may encounter resistance from the clips in the middle of the antenna bar holding it in the case. You may pull hard without damaging anything as long as you pull straight up, perpendicular to the case.

    • Remove the antenna bar.

    Tip: keep the six big lid anchor screws in place until after you remove the antenna bar. You may have to use your plastics spudger to wedge underneath the vents and get leverage off the underside of the lid along the hinge area. I also had to remove the Logicboard so I could get the plastic spudger underneath the antenna bar and lift it up. It felt like it was going to break. Did not want to have to remove the logic board, but seemed that was the only way I could get underneath and pry the antenna out.

    Chris Leeds - Ответить

    Felt like I was going to break it! It will come out but it requires patience and light touch

    Go to 12:02 on this Video:

    https://youtu.be/AvS3Dl712zQ

    Subscribe to this dude’s channel! I donated because he has taught me a lot with his videos!

    lamajr - Ответить

    Lamar's suggestion to view the video is excellent. Though I saw it only in arrears, it was quite valuable. I found a spudge, used to GENTLY pry both side first, then begin lifting on your right side (with back of laptop facing you) while gently twisting slightly inward to do the trick.

    Probably the worst moment in this repair.

    DLC

    dlcatftwin - Ответить

  31. Use a T9 Torx driver to remove the six 4.9 mm screws securing the display hinges to the upper case. Use a T9 Torx driver to remove the six 4.9 mm screws securing the display hinges to the upper case.
    • Use a T9 Torx driver to remove the six 4.9 mm screws securing the display hinges to the upper case.

    This was a T8 Torx driver for me

    jasonsedlaczek - Ответить

    It’s easier to leave 1 on each side in place open the MacBook fully and the remove them. This will help not damaging the bottom screen rim

    Kevin Duterne - Ответить

    Torx T8 for me too on a MacBook Air 2020

    Paul Scott - Ответить

  32. With the MacBook still screen-side down, carefully lift the upper case to open the MacBook as far as possible. With the MacBook still screen-side down, carefully lift the upper case to open the MacBook as far as possible.
    • With the MacBook still screen-side down, carefully lift the upper case to open the MacBook as far as possible.

  33. Lift the MacBook and carefully rotate the display to a 90 degree angle with the upper case. The hinges should not move in relation to the display, and should rotate out of the case slightly. Keeping the display at a 90 degree angle with the case, move the display straight down while holding the case still, so that the hinges slide out the bottom of the case.
    • Lift the MacBook and carefully rotate the display to a 90 degree angle with the upper case.

    • The hinges should not move in relation to the display, and should rotate out of the case slightly.

    • Keeping the display at a 90 degree angle with the case, move the display straight down while holding the case still, so that the hinges slide out the bottom of the case.

    Can i skip antenna screw and battery to reallign the screen lid ? My screen lid is misalligned with the body about half milimeters

    can.cakmak - Ответить

    Yes. You can loosen the screen lid screws to re-align the top lid.

    Arthur Shi -

    (quote)

    "Keeping the display at a 90 degree angle with the case, move the display straight down while holding the case still, so that the hinges slide out the bottom of the case."

    (end quote)

    If you're moving the display straight down, how does it "slide out"? I do ge the point, but this instruction could stand a tad amount of re-wording.

    dlcatftwin - Ответить

  34. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six 1.6 mm screws securing the Touch ID sensor and its bracket. Remove the Touch ID bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six 1.6 mm screws securing the Touch ID sensor and its bracket.

    • Remove the Touch ID bracket.

  35. Turn the MacBook right-side up and open the display.
    • Turn the MacBook right-side up and open the display.

    • Lift the Touch ID sensor sensor out of its recess and remove it.

  36. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the USB-C connector bracket. Remove the USB-C connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the USB-C connector bracket.

    • Remove the USB-C connector bracket.

  37. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the USB-C cable connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  38. Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the USB-C board.
    • Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the two 2.9 mm screws securing the USB-C board.

  39. Remove the USB-C board.
    • Remove the USB-C board.

  40. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket. Remove the trackpad connector bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.4 mm screws securing the trackpad connector bracket.

    • Remove the trackpad connector bracket.

  41. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad cable connector up and out of its socket.

  42. Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's ZIF connector. Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector. Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the sound board cable's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the sound board cable out of the ZIF connector.

  43. Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the following screws:
    • Use a T4 Torx driver to remove the following screws:

    • One 5.5 mm screw

    • Three 2.6 mm screws

    • Two 1.9 mm screws

    These are T5 Torx driver screws

    Richard Arnett - Ответить

    Need torx 5 AND torx 4 driver here ;)

    Marcel Popp - Ответить

    During re-assembly be soft when screwing in the logic board because those antenna plugs in Step 14 are quite awkward to pin back into their sockets and there is little leeway in the cables; to make this task a little easier in Step 14, secure the logic board loosely right up against the near outside edge; after re-connecting all the cables in Steps 16-9, return to Step 17 to firm up the logic board screws.

    Andrew Gordon - Ответить

    This tip was a huge help, hate these cables lol

    Konrad Anderson -

    The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.

    Peter Newman - Ответить

  44. Remove the logic board.
    • Remove the logic board.

  45. Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the upper case. If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
    • Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

  46. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad ZIF connector. Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector. Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad ZIF connector.

    • Slide the trackpad cable straight out of its connector.

  47. Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery. If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat the battery.
    • Carefully slide an opening pick under the trackpad cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • If you have difficulty separating the adhesive, heat it slightly with an iOpener or hair dryer. Be careful not to overheat the battery.

  48. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the trackpad:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the trackpad:

    • One 3.2 mm screw

    • Eight 3.1 mm screws

  49. With the laptop still lying screen-side down, carefully open the laptop. The trackpad will stay sitting on the display. Remove the trackpad from the MacBook. Take care not to scratch the display.
    • With the laptop still lying screen-side down, carefully open the laptop. The trackpad will stay sitting on the display.

    • Remove the trackpad from the MacBook. Take care not to scratch the display.

  50. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad's ZIF connector. Slide the trackpad cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Slide the trackpad cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the trackpad's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the trackpad cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  51. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove four 2.5 mm screws securing the battery.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove four 2.5 mm screws securing the battery.

  52. Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab on the side of the battery, enough so you can grab it with your fingers. Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the battery. Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab on the side of the battery, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the battery.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

    No ISO needed here. Luckily 6/6 tapes came out cleanly (praise the Lord)

    Peter Newman - Ответить

  53. Repeat the previous step to remove the next two adhesive strips on the same side of the battery. If any adhesive strips break, leave them in and proceed to the next step.
    • Repeat the previous step to remove the next two adhesive strips on the same side of the battery.

    • If any adhesive strips break, leave them in and proceed to the next step.

  54. Repeat the previous two steps to remove the three adhesive strips on the other side of the battery. If any of the adhesive strips broke, you can use high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to help remove them: Carefully drip isopropyl alcohol along either edge of the battery, in the recessed part of the upper case, where the adhesive pull tabs were.
    • Repeat the previous two steps to remove the three adhesive strips on the other side of the battery.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke, you can use high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to help remove them:

    • Carefully drip isopropyl alcohol along either edge of the battery, in the recessed part of the upper case, where the adhesive pull tabs were.

    • Applying too much alcohol or applying it outside of the wells in the case where the adhesive sits risks damaging other components.

    • Let the alcohol soak into the adhesive for a minute or two.

    • Use opening picks to gently pry the battery away from the upper case.

  55. Remove the battery.
    • Remove the battery.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

  56. Slide an opening pick under the microphone farthest away from the edge of the case to slice through the adhesive securing it to the upper case. The microphone assembly is still connected to the case. Do not try to remove the microphone assembly or lift the cable.
    • Slide an opening pick under the microphone farthest away from the edge of the case to slice through the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • The microphone assembly is still connected to the case. Do not try to remove the microphone assembly or lift the cable.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, do not force the pick. Heat the microphone assembly using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.

  57. Use the point of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the microphone's ZIF connector. Slide the microphone cable straight out of the ZIF connector. Slide the microphone cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the small locking flap on the microphone's ZIF connector.

    • Slide the microphone cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

  58. Slide an opening pick under the rest of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Slide an opening pick under the rest of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Slide an opening pick under the rest of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  59. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry one of the microphones out of its recess in the upper case. If the adhesive is stubborn, it may be necessary to apply heat to the microphone or the case.
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry one of the microphones out of its recess in the upper case.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, it may be necessary to apply heat to the microphone or the case.

  60. Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry the other microphone out of its recess in the upper case. If the adhesive is stubborn, it may be necessary to apply heat to the microphone or the case.
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry the other microphone out of its recess in the upper case.

    • If the adhesive is stubborn, it may be necessary to apply heat to the microphone or the case.

  61. Remove the microphone assembly.
    • Remove the microphone assembly.

  62. Lift the USB-C port brackets out of their recesses in the upper case and remove them. Compare your new upper case to your old one and transfer over any remaining parts.
    • Lift the USB-C port brackets out of their recesses in the upper case and remove them.

    • Compare your new upper case to your old one and transfer over any remaining parts.

    Took 3 hours to remove + reinstall. 5:30 am - 8:30 am done and done.

    Great guide.

    Ted Teske - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Еще один человек закончил это руководство.

Adam O'Camb

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Комментариев: 2

I will be tackling this repair soon for my MacBook Air… I see I will need new adhesive to reattach the battery and speakers. What kind of adhesive should I use, and where can I get it?

Jose Gutierrez - Ответить

I just repaired mine, if you buy the whole upper case part, it already comes with adhesive for the battery. The speakers were still tacky enough to hold mine down. Don't forget to take off those hex nuts off the old upper body because the new part won't have them. I believe it is about 6 of them

Gio U -

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