Введение

Follow this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly, which includes the lower microphones, antenna converter cable, and Lightning connector.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.5 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

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Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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  • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

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  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - Ответить

  • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

  • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

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  • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

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  • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

  • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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  • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

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  • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

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  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

  • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

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  • Remove four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • Two 2.8 mm screws

  • Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

  • Remove the bracket.

Not Y000 this time haha

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  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector out of its socket in the logic board.

  • Bend the battery connector cable slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the lower display connector out of its socket.

  • To re-attach press connectors like this one, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the second lower display cable.

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  • Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  • Remove the bracket.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

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  • Remove the three screws securing the bracket next to the Taptic Engine:

  • One 1.3 mm Y000 screw

  • One 2.7 mm Phillips screw

  • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

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  • Remove the bracket.

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  • Gently slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.

    • This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered in place. If necessary, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the diversity antenna flex cable from the logic board.

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  • Slide an opening pick under the antenna flex cable to hold the socket down.

  • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable from its socket, using the opening pick to hold the socket down.

    • Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using your tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.

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  • Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.

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  • Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm standoff screw

      • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

      • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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  • Use the point of your spudger to move the antenna cable socket up and away from the connector below it.

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  • Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable.

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  • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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  • Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:

    • One 2 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

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  • Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the battery to separate the adhesive securing the vent to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

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  • Remove the barometric vent.

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  • Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

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  • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM card tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM card tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the camera cable connector by prying it straight up from its socket.

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  • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 3.1 mm Phillips screw

    • One 3.0 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using an iPhone Standoff Screwdriver Bit and driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

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  • Remove the rear-facing camera bracket.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the flash connector from its socket by prying it straight up.

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  • Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:

    • One 2.9 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

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  • Remove the upper cable bracket.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the upper cable connector up from its socket.

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  • Remove the three Phillips 1.3 mm screws securing the top left antenna component.

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  • Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top of edge of the case.

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  • Remove the antenna component.

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  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.6 mm Phillips screw

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  • Remove the grounding clip.

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  • Remove the three screws securing the motherboard:

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.5 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

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  • Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Lightning connector cable from the logic board.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.

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  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

    • Be careful not to pull against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

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  • Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.

  • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

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  • Remove the two screws securing the speaker to the rear case:

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.1 mm Phillips screw

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  • Remove the speaker.

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  • Remove the three screws securing the Lightning connector cable in place:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.2 mm Phillips screws

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  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the phone.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the logic-board-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place.

  • Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.

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  • Use the point of a spudger to gently pry the battery-side microphone free from the adhesive securing it in place.

  • Don't try to completely remove the microphone; just separate the adhesive as shown.

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  • Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the phone, angling it as shown. This will help loosen the flex cable adhesive.

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  • Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case.

  • Gently slide the pick toward the outside edge of the iPhone (away from the battery).

    • Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.

    • If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to make it easier to separate.

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  • Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.

    • Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it.

    • Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

  • Stop sliding the pick once it passes the lower edge of the battery.

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  • Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector.

  • Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.

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  • Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its hole on the rear case.

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  • Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.

  • Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.

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  • Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.

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  • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

  • Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:

    • Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case. You can use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to help clean the surface.

    • Before removing the adhesive backing, make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned by aligning the hole in the flex cable with the screw post. If the cable is misaligned, you won't be able to reconnect it to the logic board.

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  • A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.

  • The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.

  • Check to see if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn't, use the point of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.

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Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, and follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPhone 8 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

One other person completed this guide.

Arthur Shi

Участник с: 03.01.2018

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