Введение
Перейти к шагу 1The Amazon Echo aims to be your in-home personal assistant, in the form of a Wi-Fi connected tower speaker. Are smart speakers the next big thing? Follow us inside this new device for the inside scoop. Hey Alexa, it's teardown time.
Follow us on Instagram, like us on Facebook, or get the tl;dr on Twitter.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
-
-
Amazon Echo: World's smartest speaker, or world's tallest Siri? Tech specs include:
-
2.5" woofer, with a reflex port to drop a little extra bass
-
2.0" tweeter
-
7-microphone array
-
Light ring volume adjustment
-
Remote control
-
-
-
At 9.75" x 3.27", the Amazon Echo stands just a bit bigger than a couple cans of soup. (And significantly smaller than the last black cylinder we tore down, the Mac Pro).
-
Echo's model number lives in its rubber foot: SK705DI.
-
-
-
Amazon sealed the Echo up tight, with nary a fastener in sight. Time to peel up the foot and take a look.
-
Four impressively long T10 screws hold the bottom stage of the Echo rocket in place. Thanks, Amazon, for a standard fastener that we're really good at removing.
-
The plate flips over, held in place by a data cable and speaker lines.
Is that a USB port I see?
No USB. It looks like a test/programming port for manufacturing.
What struck me about this device is the amount of assembly required at the factory. It's not like there are a zillion parts, but humans on the assembly line have to do a lot of work.
What is the "rubber foot" made of? In converting my Amazon Echo to mobile use with UPS, I tried to drill the metal(?) plate within the rubber foot but nothing would attack it, neither tungsten nor carbide. Since there are no wires, I am hoping this is not a critical part because I had to eliminate it during modification reassembly. Everything seems to work fine and the small UPS installed in a small attached base box runs for approx 1.5 hours.
Can you describe your steps for how you powered this? I would like to connect using 12V in my RV but I'm not sure it's possible without a small inverter.
The plate is plastic. The echo requires 15VDC.
Gaylord -
Any idea what diameter, length and thread type these screws are? I pulled one out, and eyeballing it, it looks to be 3mm x 40 to 45mm long. The only thing I'm completely unsure of is the thread type. If I could match that up, I'd like to get some slightly longer screws to help with a bolt-through mount I'm working on.
only parts i can find is this.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-AMAZON-ECHO-...
-
-
-
The power and speaker driver board lives on the bottom of the stack.
-
Texas Instruments TPS53312, likely an updated version of the TPS53311 3A Step-Down Regulator with Integrated Switcher
-
Texas Instruments TLV320DAC3203 Ultra Low Power Stereo Audio Codec
-
Texas Instruments TPA3110D2 15W Filter-Free Class D Stereo Amplifier
What type/size of 2 pin connectors are used to attach the Echo's speakers to the amplifier? I plan to add 3mm audio jacks so I can connect powered satellite speakers and a powered subwoofer. I would like to avoid splicing the Eco's speaker wires if possible.
like to know this too. and if anyone has an example of the wiring to add a 3.5mm out
kovar -
One more thing, has anyone measured the output of the 115v ac to dc power adapter or the size of the power plug that connects to the echo? I am going to try to power my Echo with an 18v cordless drill battery and need to know how much to step down the battery's volts/amps. I thin I can cut the handle off of an old 18v Dewalt cordless drill and use some pvc fittings to turn the battery in to a new base (spray painted black of course).
I've been considering doing something similar. I want to know if I can buy the right connector tip somewhere or if I have to buy another power adapter just so I can cut the end off it. Have you figured out anything useful?
Looks like 15 it is printed in black on wall plug under line voltage promgs
hemsing6 -
It is 15.27 Volts Measured with no load. It will be 15 +/-. Remember connect nothing that you have not measured the output of in advance. Good luck.
Gaylord -
Has anyone done a stereo line level or headphone output on the echo? I want to hook it up to my whole house audio setup.
I do too, cant believe its not there.
I’m working on a kit which will allow the internal speakers to continue working and provide a line level (not amplified) output for a powered speaker. The kit will include a new base plate and pad.
Gaylord -
I have a unit that has been thrown on the ground, and the square c223 have been broken off. Can anyone identify?
Has anyone worked out how to drive the amplifier with an input audion signal?
-
-
-
Echo's design continues to remind us of a rocket, with several stages stacked within an outer shroud.
-
-
With the outer housing removed, we find some vibration-dampening fabric swaddling the speakers.
-
It takes a skillful combination of knifery and peeling double-stick tape, but we eventually get the fabric off, exposing a sad-looking mouth and the start of our path to a free motherboard.
-
-
-
The tower of components that remains is starting to remind us of a certain dark fortress. We'll keep an eye out for anything suspicious.
-
Stage separation in 3..2..1..
-
Tweeter separated, and removed from its housing. Check out that magnet.
Curious to know what your thoughts are related to being able to add a headphone jack to the echo. Normally, I'd just think about splicing the speaker wires and putting a switch in the middle so I could toggle between the headphone jack output and the onboard speaker, but it appears from the photo that the speaker is connected using a ribbon cable? Can you confirm?
Bump... I would like to know this as well
Dave, just did this today. Spliced into the speaker wires (need to splice both tweeter and sub wires), to audio out jack. Now I can plug into house stereo which is the split throughout the house. Echo speakers continue to function as well. The most difficult part was mounting the audio out due to space. Ultimately just ran the spliced wires out of the echo and made a little audio out housing box which sits next to the echo. I have no plans to now move it since audio is now pushed through the entire house. The seperate audio out box does not bother me since it is hidden behind the house stereo.
A picture of that would be great! IMO, that is one major feature they overlooked.
picture please
kovar -
Do you perhaps have any pictures to share about how you did this - and or where you sliced the wires? I do not want to open Echo - before I know how difficult it would be. I am pretty handy with electronics - but not sure about Echo.
Thanks
So are you getting stereo output. I was thinking of getting the output from the TLV320 chip as this should be before the amp.. Not sure if that has stereo out either.. obviously grabbing output from the speaker is easier but I will need to use a convertor to not overload the pre-amp on my stereo input.
PW -
1 woofer + 1 tweeter = mono..
How does it sound hooked to home stereo? Did you use woofer & tweeter for R&L?
Hey TM! We would love to know some details on how you tapped the signal. L=Woofer,R=Tweeter, or did you somehow combine the two into a meaningful sound? I'm trying to hook up headphones for a hearing-impaired elderly user. W was too thundering and T was too sharp. I hesitate to just join the two blacks and two reds, but I might just try it.
TJVT -
I agree with Jim Culmone 1 tweeter + 1 woofer = mono output. To get this to a stereo output I would think you would need to connect the echo signals out to an external crossover with a stereo output and then plug that into your stereo system. I really can't see how putting your tweeter output and woofer output on separate left and right channels would give you an acceptable listening experience but that's just me. If it sounds okay to you then you're good.
phil -
The audio out connectors appears to be "JST" type 2-pin connectors. To avoid splicing, you'd need two "Y" type parallel "JST" cables. This would allow you to seemlessly plug back in the existing speakers and leave you with two reds and two blacks (1 pair for the tweeter; 1 pair for the woofer). Question is whether you can simply combine the reds and blacks and attach to a 3.5mm mono plug? Or use a stereo plug w/ left channel as woofer, right channel as tweeter, and common ground? I'm not an electronics guy... TM -- how did you do it?
I spliced both black and red wires from tweeter and woofer output. First of all, the JST y cables I purchased from Amazon do not fit the board. Second, when I combined the red red and black black and then to a stereo 3.5mm plug the sound would cut out constantly. When I unplugged either the woofer or tweeter plug it gave me either high or low frequency but did NOT cut out. I know nothing about electronics but am thinking I need a signal summing device. Any other thoughts? Anyone tap into the board before the signal is split to high and low?
Did you take it any further? I went ahead and wired it up and it all worked well for nearly 10 minutes and then it had enough and just stopped. I was disappointed, frustrated, and had spent enough time pretending like I knew what I was doing so I haven't been back to the project to see if I even have a functioning unit to continue working on.
I'm thinking I fried the TPA3110D2 amplifier chip.
I'm also wondering if adding headphones is feasible at all. Is there a crossover circuit onboard or is Amazon creating a stereo audio stream that is already frequency divided (L=woofer, R=tweeter)? If so, capturing the inputs to the TPA3110D2 may still require blending the signals with diodes or something to prevent a burnout.
If I did fry it, at least the thing is heavy and kinda doorstop-shaped...
TJVT -
I have that ribbon cable with a couple of bad pins on it #4 and #8 it looks like humidity caused corrosion and now the amplifier is not getting audio from the upper board to the amplifier.
I did a Google and Amazon search for the part number I found on it:
PCB 30-001467
PCBA-31-000842 (Rev01)
Opc 2417(06) <--date?
Please reply with a link if you know where I can order this.
-
-
-
Final stage, ejecting the woofer from the
spacecraftmain body. -
This heavy duty woofer has an even heftier magnet than its tweeting twin.
-
The internals seem to feature a complex woven spider. Also known as a damper.
-
-
-
The Echo has made it into orbit, and is ready to launch its payload. Our handy T10 screwdriver is again put to the test to free the motherboard.
-
This feels familiar.
-
Time to excavate the board and check out its tasty chips!
Looks like it may be an NFC chip? Good question.... iFixit, enlighten us please!
that appears to be an antenna of sorts. something with a fairly short wavelength. there are two of them, one on each side. but since there is no connections to the main circuit board. Some sort of NFC does seem to be a correct estimate.
James -
Andrew Powell's answer is our best guess. We found an identical-looking sticker in the Amazon Fire TV. We're betting that these are passive RFID tags used for inventory/packing handling.
It's been seen in other Amazon devices. Some type of wireless tag to track the device through manufacturing or link it to your account when shipped.
Does anyone think the ti processor is hackable? i.e. programmable? Ti seems to have tools for it, that is unless amazon has protected it in some way.
-
-
-
Here's what's powering the Echo:
-
Texas Instruments DM3725CUS100 Digital Media Processor
-
Samsung K4X2G323PD-8GD8 256 MB LPDDR1 RAM
-
SanDisk SDIN7DP2-4G 4 GB iNAND Ultra Flash Memory
-
Qualcomm Atheros QCA6234X-AM2D Wi-Fi and Bluetooth Module
-
Texas Instruments TPS65910A1 Integrated Power Management IC
-
-
-
Now for the fun part!
-
The volume dial contains the user-interactive bits: the top portion spins freely, using a greased-up gear to turn an encoder...
-
Pro tip: take the Echo out of its protective plastic covering before attempting volume level 10.
Yes because you cant see the buttons or the LED light ring.
-
-
-
Popping off the final guard, the greased gear is free to go. The Echo's spinning input wheel is similar to that of the Nest Thermostat, but is implemented completely differently.
-
Around the edge of the wheel, we find the microphones responsible for hearing your commands (six on the perimeter, plus one in the center of the board), and LEDs used to indicate Alexa's acknowledgement.
-
-
-
We gently separate the LED/microphone board from the topmost plastic button cover.
-
Only a thin layer of precision-cut foam, complete with microphone mesh and plastic window covers, stands between us and daughterboard freedom.
-
Texas Instruments LP55231 Programmable 9-Output LED Driver (x4)
-
Texas Instruments TLV320ADC3101 92dB SNR Low-Power Stereo ADC (x4)
-
Texas Instruments SN74LVC74A Dual Positive-Edge-Triggered D-Type Flip-Flops
-
S1053 0090 V6 Microphone (x7)
I'd love to find a way to access/replace the microphone sources and audio out. It would be great to hack my old Nutone home intercom system and use the console in each room as a microphone and speaker. For example, anyone in any room could say "Alexa, what is the weather today?" and get the answer. Might be a great use for the 1970s technology that someone (crazily) installed in my 1990s house. Anyone with relevant expertise, please give me some good ideas. I just added my name to the Echo wait list.
I have a whole-house audio system by HTD and I want to do this exact thing. I am thinking of just splicing the speaker wire, putting in a toggle switch and a headphone jack. I was hoping someone else (braver than I) would confirm this approach... but I might just rip it apart and try myself. My HTD system actually has stereo input jacks in each room (built into the panels) and all I'd need to do is plug the output from alexa into one of the rooms, and then use the intercom to talk back to that room... presto, now Echo would be reachable from all rooms.
There is a microphone array implemented that is tied to the geometry of the microphones. You won't be able to wire in microphones and loudspeakers and still expect the microphone array beamforming, as well as any acoustic echo cancellation, to work properly.
W
This is exactly what I'm going to do!
Brilliant write up, thanks!!
How do I access the microphone beamforming array output? I'd like to use the source separation in some code I'm writing. Any advice appreciated!
Thanks, S
stephen -
Can anyone identify what the opto-sensor is used for? It is on the top side of the LED/Microphone board and can be seen in the second photo in the gap of the gold on the circumference.
Yeah, it senses the ambient light level to allow auto-dimming of the LEDs when it's dark.
What type of encoder technology is implemented? Magnetic? Optical?
Question for AMAZON - You use the Texas Instruments TLV320DAC3203 Ultra Low Power Stereo Audio Codec. Are you feeding stereo in and only using single speaker mono out? When is Amazon enabling full stereo ouyput to tap into the output (remember we still have the remote for commands and we all want an external speaker or optical output? This is huge!!!
Does anyone know the producer of the microphones
Knowles Electronics. Maybe someone would tell you it's Sisonic, but now Sisonic belongs to Knowles.
Wondering the same thing. Did you find out btw?
Can anybody tell the model of this microphones or its approximate specifications ?
What is the purpose of dual D flip-flop? Is it designed for mute button press?
I am searching the internet for the same thing. By any chance, did you find out?
What DSP chip did Amazon use to do AEC, SSP processing?
I could not find the SP1053 datasheet anywhere. I looked on the knowles /sisonic website but this part # did not exist. Any body know if this part# is correct?
Can I purchase the topmost plastic button cover? Mine is broken.
-
-
-
And here we remove the
saxophonereflex port. -
Cantina song, anyone?
-
The strange shape takes full advantage of the limited space inside the Echo, while allowing Alexa to yell at you from across the room.
The cantina link that is critical to the teardown is broken. Use this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF4H9_DW...
:) -
-
-
What a lovely layout! Here are all those Echo parts you've just now come to know and love.
-
With that, it's time for a repairability score.
How can i get this power board the one with a half moon shaped.if you had an advice accidentally my speaker fall down and it doesn't turn on back again.what is the possible problem for this..plssss help me up on this..thank you…
Pls..if there is anybody to help me up.i accidentally dropped my speaker [|alexa and it doesn't turn on back.so anyone pls advice is it the power board problem.do i need to replace this? And how can i get a replacement i can't find it online…]
-
- The speakers (the components most likely to fail) are replaceable.
- Separating components across three circuit boards improves modularity.
- Adhesive is used in two places—the rubber foot, and the fabric shroud. Removing the shroud requires a knife, and you'll need to tape it back together.
- This is a fairly complex device—and with no repair documentation available, reassembly is especially difficult.
Заключительные мысли
Уровень ремонтопригодности
(10 легче всего ремонтировать)
84 Комментариев
Excuse me but what is the power draw for the Echo? I run on solar power.
About 3 watts, 7 VA on standby. Not much more when playing music, maybe 4W/8VA.
Does anyone know where to find the S1053 0090 V6 microphones? there's no manufacturer referenced.
A search took me here http://www.digikey.com/en/product-highli...
Hello. Thanks for taking the time to share this. You did an awesome presentation! I own an Amazon echo that looks like the power /speaker driver circuit board is bad. It got very wet. I cleaned all the corrosion off but evidently the damage is done. It powers up but no sound. Do you happen to have the part # for that board? I really hate to discard it because of this simple fix ya know? Thanks. Dennis , dgmenace at g mail
I found thisome,
Great post! My toddler got a hold of the cord and pulled the Echo down onto the floor, ejecting the top ring like a missile. Well, with these instructions and some luck (sticking the wired connectors into the socket was ridiculous until I realized that there is a clamping mechanism on one of the two sockets), I was able to cobble it back together and it works like a charm. Thanks!
Would love to create a Digital out to by-pass the internal DAC.
I want to hook this up to my DAC/Pre-Amp, but I would need a digital out to do it.
Any thoughts?
My echo simply died. No lights, no sound, nothing...
I have taken it apart and see nothing wrong? Back together and still nothing. Any ideas? I hate to trash the thing. Great weather reports and all.
Yes. it is the power supply - just get a new one from Amazon.
jeff -
The same thing happened to mine and Amazon sent me a new power cord. Unfortunately that didn't fix the problem. It is still dead. Had to purchase a new one because the warranty was up.
Is this doing any Speech to text Conversion locally or using AWS for that. I would think audio files going back and forth would be slow, but it seems to be very responsive.
Somewhat late to the party but might be useful for someone else. The only words the echo truly understands is the wake words (Alexa, Echo, Computer etc). Once it hears any of these it starts t actively record and sends up an MP3 of the recorded sound to Amazon servers which then turn the audio into text and identifies what skill needs to be invoked.
this person shows how to wire the echo for SONOS. Will this work for other audio output device?
My kids kicked it off the table and the top came off. How do you put the ribbon connector back into the device. Do I need to take it apart?
Hi Tony, did you ever get an answer? I have the same problem
My echo died out of warranty. My voltmeter shows zero between the center of the power plug and its outside so I'm *guessing* it's a power supply problem unless the supply is sufficiently smart to only turn on when it's plugged in to Echo. Does anyone know the polarity of the plug? Comments?
My top plastic cover plate pops up on its own. One of the four tabs that held it in place is broken. Where can I find a replacement for the top plastic cover plate?
Hi Steve, the same thing happened to me. Did you ever get an answer?
I have the same problem. Like the other person who asked, did you ever get an answered about buying a new top cover?
Very helpful. I had ants making a home in my Echo. I put it in an air tight plastic bag for a week to deprive them of air and then was able to follow through step 6 to take it apart enough to get out the dead ants and crud they were nesting in. Put it back together and it's working fine now.
Any thoughts where to buy the speakers used in Echo (tweeter and also woofer) for different project?
Did you ever find an answer to this question? Looking for the same thing if so could you text the details to 770-355-1831 Just to make sure I get your reply
Does anyone found exact microphone(S1053 0090 V6) part information?
Can anyone please explain microphone capabilities of Amazon Echo and Google Home, Which is better ? Thanks in Advance!
The power adapter was splashed with water while plugged in. Was working fine all night. I wasn't told this till the next day. Echo was left plugged in over night now it's not working. Would it just be the power adapter or would this of burnt something out inside. Would appreciate any help.
You can't know for sure unless you try a power supply you know works. Try buying a replacement power supply, if that doesn't fix it then there's something more serious messed up inside it.
The wire from Alexa to the wall electrical power is severed, what can I do?
My suggestion is join the wires back together each wire to it’s identical other piece. Insulate them OR and preferably replace the power supply
Wobbles -
Is the Amazon TAP power adapter dual voltage, rated for 110 to 240 Volts?
It appears that there are no replacement parts. Mine stopped working at 13 months. I know its the power board but I cannot find where you can get a new one. Great plan in the sales business for Amazon.
mine suffer exactly the same. Very bad quality device.
Ours got dropped (grandkid cord-yank from kitchen counter to tiled floor). The power board seems completely dead - good voltage in lots of places - but no LED light - nothing. Further investigation revealed a sheared off screw+plastic from the top of the machine - so it obviously hit hard. RIP Echo. 13 months old.
lol- no repair parts for Echo; once it falls off your desk, the top piece will shatter and make the volume unusable (horrible design; all strength is in bottom- top is frail). I purchased a similar from eBay and both are unusable. Going into trash ASAP.
&&^& Amazon for not releasing parts; $2 plastic part is $125 'discount' replacement (plus old goes into landfill).
My daughter had her earphones in and the end snapped off inside her Amazon dot. Does the Dot use the same T10 screws and would taking it apart give me access to the inside of the portal?
Our Dot teardown is here and it's kind of a bear to open. I'd suggest you try something like a GripStick to extract the broken plug before you resort to taking it apart (which probably won't help you much anyway). Another trick I've seen used with occasional success is to cut a toothpick in half and superglue the blunt end to the headphone plug. Wait for it to dry thoroughly, and then pull. Good luck!
Hello, it seems that i left my echo outside overnight. in the rain. I know that this was incredibly, incredibly stupid, but i was wondering if there's a way to fix it? I said the wake word and pressed the wake button with no response, so I've unplugged it. Any suggestions?
Put it in a sealed platic bag with dry rice for two weeks.,, it will suck all the moisture out of the electronics... wrap the echo in screen if the speaker grill has holes large enough to let rice in...but you need to let moisture and air pass through, so dont saran wrap it.
After two weeks try it out... should work fine.
Who manufactures the microphones used in the Echo?
Anybody who know how to make hole of outer housing?
"Echo" has so many holes around outer housing. I guess that it is impossible to make injection mold. it looks CNC.
Please let me know how to make this hole.
Well! I’m sorry for all the other folks whose Echo’s have….”lost their heads”, but glad I’m not the only one. Mine fell from a height of 6 inches and the top snapped off!! It still responds to commands, so I made a tine sombrero for it and taped it to the now angled top (volume control is useless anyway). Pretty festive. An excellent teardown, but I’ll just call mine an art piece for now…..
hello, can anyone tell me the positive and negative terminal on the barrel jack of the power supply? Ex: Middle pin being positive or negative.
Middle Pin always positive.
Gaylord -
What is the Chipset (application processor) that is used in Amazon Echo?
My first gen echo was working fine until the modem had problems we replaced it and when i tried to connected to the internet nothing the app shut up constantly before to connect to the wifi so I am wondering if i can replace the wifi chip to make it work I know it is a long shot but I’d like to try it
Our Echo stopped connecting to our wifi. We went through the setup process several times, factory reset it and tried some more, router reboots, etc. We have a router with both frequencies. We tried both. We also have an Echo Dot that connects to the wifi just fine along with our phones and multiple computers. Is their an antenae that could have come disconnected or is it likey just the wifi/bluetooth chip that failed? It hasnt taken any falls or anything.
My Echo was knocked to the floor - the two top components (final guard and greased gear, I think) got knocked loose. No matter how I put them back, it won’t work. Any advice?
Can I acquire replacement speakers and ribbon cable connector?
Where can I purchase new boards for Echo 1st gen.
Their is no information about Zigbee. Please provide one.
Is there a battery in the 1ar gen echo
Wow thats pretty cool
never gonna give you up
Never gonna let you down
Default WIFI SSID: Amazon-XXX (where XXX is dynamic I think)
Where to buy top LED/Microphone board, mine was lost.
I’d like to convert one of these to remove the brains and just connect an audio input to the power board. Do you know which pins of the 36 way ribbon cable provide the audio signal to the driver board? And what level the signal should be? Thanks.
