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I've been struggling to figure out what happened to my 2022 Zephyrus G14 recently. I was using the laptop one morning,...
Читать далееHi all, I have a question about two small components on the logic board of an iPod 2nd Nano 2nd gen. There was some water...
Читать далееI got a Nexus 6 from a friend's dad who said that an egg was cracked into the phone accidentally (both were in the...
Читать далееI have been trying to fix a phone for a relative of mine, and the rear camera refuses to work, even after replacing it....
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This looks like a good video on how to do it! You just need a bunch of heat and some Xacto knives :) But make sure to disassemble the phone all the way first like they do in the video, otherwise stuff inside will probably get ruined. When buying new glass for it, you have to make sure you get an aftermarket piece with a slightly oversize camera section, since the glass normally goes under the edges of the camera bump, and then it is permanently welded in place from the back.
Читать далееIf it’s a pretty old amp (which it is), there’s a good chance some of the capacitors in the power circuit (and likely everywhere inside) have gone bad. This will cause it to not turn on, and in some cases draw too much power. What you can do is open it, and then desolder all of the capacitors (making a table to note where they go based on their values, (eg. C16 might be 470uF 35V) and then go on somewhere like Digikey or Mouser and find the capacitors you need with their part search tool. Once you replace them the problem should be fixed! Also, absolutely make sure to put the capacitors in the board with the correct polarity. Not doing this will make them explode. Additionally, you should only have to replace capacitors that are of the aluminum electrolytic variety, so any ceramic ones can stay, etc… I would recommend getting capacitors from Würth or Nichicon, but if you have to get them from other manufacturers due to stock shortages, that’s okay.
Читать далееThe QI wireless charging coil is built onto the back glass of the phone. Replacing the battery should have no effect on whether or not it continues to function :) Hope that helps!
Читать далееIt is either the backlight LEDs or the power supply, especially since part of the screen went dark a bit before the pop. The power supply board is responsible for driving the backlight LEDs. If you have a very powerful flashlight, try shining it on the screen and seeing if there is still a picture (something with lots of white works well, since darker colors are hard to see without a backlight). Since you still have sound, that means that the low voltage section of the TV is still functioning. If you do still have picture, you should try opening the TV and looking for obvious damage on the orange(ish) colored board that should be visible. Please make sure to not touch that board, too. It carries high voltage AC and DC, and will still have power left in the large capacitors on it after it is turned off. Things to look for would be scorch marks, cracked/burned components, and bloated capacitors. If you see any of those things, the board is definitely bad. If there aren’t any of those, there’s still a chance...
Читать далееThe phone got plugged in with the wrong polarity to the USB connector? Also what voltage was the battery you connected it to? If that’s the case, the charge circuity, and potentially more things probably got fried on the phone. Based on the fact that the charger wires smoked, I think way more current than was good for the phone went into it…
Читать далееSorry for the disappointing answer, but the motors aren’t compatible. You might be able to take one from a Nord 1 and desolder the flex cable from it, and then solder that flex cable to a different vibration motor. That would take quite a bit of soldering skill and some pretty fine soldering tools, but it should be possible! Hope this helps :) For reference, this is a vibration motor from the Nord 1: https://fixbhi.com/product/oneplus-nord-oem-vibration-motor-module-replacement/ (Note how it has the little solder balls on the motor input) And this is one from the Nord 2: https://www.maxbhi.com/vibrator-for-oneplus-nord-2-5g.html (This one has no solder balls even, so you would have to cut the end piece off and re-expose the copper. A much easier alternative would be using a totally different vibration motor that has the same solder balls as the motor from the Nord 1, although that doesn’t guarantee you the feel you want)
Читать далееWell technically yes, you can replace it, you have to have a number of expensive tools, and plenty of experience using them. To properly replace it, you would need a BGA chip replacement machine (these are a combination of a fancy heater that gives consistent heat to just the area of the chip and to the board where the chip is, and is able to accurately control temperature curves to ensure a proper solder joint. The upper heater is also attached to a Z axis that can be lowered exactly where the chip should be. Not to mention, you don’t know if the new chip will have pre-attached solder balls, so you might have to get solder paste and a stencil for that specific chip. The spot on the board from the old chip has to be cleaned with a soldering iron and solder wick to make all of the pads flat again, and you would also need flux for attaching the new chip. So in the scenario that you do have those things, feel free to try it out, otherwise you’re probably just wasting money on a replacement chip of dubious...
Читать далееThe board that manages the cells (BMS) gets very unhappy when it notices that there aren’t cells connected anymore (like when you disconnected the old cells). This usually results in the board being permanently disabled. Sometimes depending on the battery, you can reset it, but you’d have to look it up. For future reference, you can attach the new cells in parallel and then detach the old ones. The BMS usually will be fine then.
Читать далееNot exactly sure where they are, but usually they’re located on power delivery circuits and RAM chips. A handy way to figure out their location is by looking at the heat shields or heatsink and see where there are raised areas. Those areas are where thermal pads go.
Читать далееIf I understand correctly, you upgraded from an i5 to a Xeon? Based on what you're saying that likely rules out the thermal/power issues. Have you tried resetting the CMOS by unplugging the PC and removing the coin cell from the motherboard for 30 minutes? Your ram may be an issue, Xeons can be more picky about ram config. Try just one stick and see if it still crashes. Make sure if it crashes like that, that you try another stick to rule out that single stick as being a bad stick. If you're still not 100% sure about your ram being good, you can always run memtest 86 to double check it. Update (10/29/2020): What kind of CPU cooler do you have on the CPU? It sounds like you’re running into thermal issues from my experience. Otherwise it may be a limitation of your PSU or your motherboard to deliver enough power.
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You’re welcome! I’m glad the guide helped you out :)
Hi!
What exactly is your problem? It sounds like you’re saying that the pin is broken. What does “the line is almost completely removed” exactly mean though? If it’s a broken trace on the top side, don’t worry, you can run wires from the vias on the opposite side to fix that.
Thanks! I’m glad you found it helpful!
Let me know if you have any questions about repairing the 20D :)
No phones I've ever heard of except old feature phones and all of the apple smartphones that are older than the 4 have non-fused glass.
Fused glass makes sense, I've had to replace the LCD on an old iPhone, getting all the dust out is unbelievably frustrating and takes a long time.
Also, if you drop your phone in water, the sealed screen will almost always work, but with the non sealed, Water gets in between the screen and the capacitive overlay, which won't dry (or will take forever to do so) which means that you'll have to separate the two halves of the screen and clean them.
Overall I personally like glued screens, because they simplify repair.
With the side affect of being more expensive in mind, I usually shop on eBay/Amazon for screens
-Alec
Alec M
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