Laptop power issues can extend to a number of different possibilities. I don't know if you have an AC/DC Mains screwdriver, but I know the general use ones are for AC, and your laptop uses DC power, as well as those things can give false positives (had one trigger on my belt buckle). Personally I think that a multimeter is a better tester for your situation, and the first thing I would check is the AC adapter to make sure it has enough voltage to power your laptop. You mentioned that you cleaned your laptop with Benzene, which is a pretty heavy duty chemical, and is something that I would not consider using to clean a computer, due to the health implications, but I cant say that it would damage the board, even though that stuff is highly flammable (Isopropyl Alcohol is my top choice). I do have to ask, what prompted you to clean the board? Liquid damage is really the only reason I would consider manually cleaning a board versus simply blowing away the dust. If its still open, you can check your power port...

The USB device to repair windows is something that you would have had to have made when you first setup windows - Windows 8 Recovery Drive. If you didn't make one then you have two more options. 1. Try turning on or restarting the system while holding your shift key to access Advanced Startup Options and repair windows from there. 2. Use your Windows Installation disk to repair the Operating System by booting that before your OS. If you don't have a disk, you can request one from Windows using your windows account (made when you first setup your computer) and product key from the system that has windows 8. If you didn't make an account (like me) you can use this link to get the disk using another computer. If you don't have a CD drive in that laptop, the link will also allow you to make a bootable Windows 8 USB flash drive.

Michael, you are in luck as the screen in the Asus R500V is pretty easy to replace, but unfortunately I don't see any similar laptops on this site with screen replacement guides so I'll try to walk you through. 1. Remove the two Phillips head screws at both bottom corners of the screen, covered by little rubber feet. 2. Pry off the front bezel, starting from the middle bottom of screen where the bezel covers the metal part of the screen and working your way out and up. 3. Remove all the screen that hold the hinges to the back panel near the base of the screen. 4. Disconnect the LCD cable. 5. Remove the Phillips head screws on both sides of the screen to pull it off of the hinges. My recommendation is that you order the screen based on the part number on the screen itself. $50-60 is pretty normal for a 15.6" screen, and the $119 for a screen replacement is not a bad deal if that includes the screen and labor.

You are well informed to discover that your laptop indeed will support the higher resolution screen. The LED cable is indeed supported across all versions of the t510 and 510i for the resolutions from 1366x768, 1600x900, and 1920x1080. Make sure you do have the correct LCD cable, which you will see directly on the cable as the FRU #: 75Y5557 Please do not confuse this with the LED cable, that connects the webcam and rear panel LED. Here is a website you might want to checkout, which will detail your parts as well as the supported models: Lenovo t510 You might notice that there is also a multi-touch 1080p panel that would be compatible, but you would be better just buying the whole assembly on that one, since you would have to buy a different set of hinges, rear panel, front bezel, and screen. Finally, the part that you do not want to see. Generally I recommend sticking with the same type of screen laptops are shipped with. The higher resolutions tend to put a greater strain on the graphics card and your...

Today I will answer this in the form of a movie. The Good - Candle Wax is has extremely low conductivity so the probability of you damaging essential electronic components is very low to no chance. The Bad - Make absolutely sure you are getting the right part before you order it. The last thing you want is to buy the part only to find it does not fit. I recommend taking it apart and making sure everything matches before ordering. The Ugly - Your tech savvy friend better be pretty good because this is a difficult system to get in and out of. Additionally if candle wax did get onto the motherboard (which I doubt it did), then he should not use any metal tools, excessive force, or a lighter to clean it off. The End - There is an excellent guide on how to get to the upper case provided by the iFixIt staff and I have the link right here.

If you want to skip the information and see my recommendation the last line has a speaker set I think you might like. It is very helpful that you mentioned that you will be using the headphone port on the a Mac Book for the audio output, but unfortunately that is a pretty broad question as not only do we not know two key pieces of information: 1. What "reasonably priced" means to you. 2. The size of the room these speakers will be used in. I'll attempt to answer your question by giving you information that will help you become more of an informed consumer. Primarily what I look at first is the RMS Power. I like to use common room sizes like dorm rooms (5-15W RMS), studio apartment (60-150W RMS),ballroom (250-500W RMS) comparisons as it gives you an idea as to the power required to fill them with audio. Science Lesson! ---- There is such a thing as too little and too much in this instance. Some manufactures advertise Total(Peak) Power, which simply put is the highest power a waveform will ever reach versus...

I hate to break it to you, but the time that fix will last varies on each system. A friend of mine had the same problem, so I performed a similar fix, only to have him report two weeks later that it stopped working again. I was a little more rigorous in the fix and I found that does seem to make a bigger difference, but no matter how many times you try it, the problem will never go away. The only long term solution to this problem is to perform this once again, never turn off the system, and hope for the best. Unfortunately the longest I've heard this method lasts ranges between 3-5 months. If you do decide to do something like this, you can try my method: 1. I prefer to set my heat gun to high and give 10 seconds to the memory and 15 seconds to the CPU and GPU. 2. Let the board sit for no less than 15 minutes to give it time to cool, and do the same process to the other side of the board at the same approximate locations. The PS4 unfortunately does not accept any PS3 games and has a terrible selection of...

You are in luck Joshua as there is already and exceptional guide that someone posted that shows you exactly how to get to the power port. HP Pavilion dv5000 Motherboard Replacement - Since you only need to replace the power port, you can stop at step 35.

By "another card that can be removed easily", I can only assume you mean a wireless card connected to the USB port. As far as what I remember with these laptops, there normally is only one wireless card in the system; so if someone had troubles with the internal card, the easiest thing to do is bypass the connection with an external wireless adapter. Make sure that the easily removed card is indeed wireless, and whether or not your wireless connection works with just your internal card. To find out on Windows XP: 1. Right Click My Computer 2. Select Manage 3. Select Device Manager 4. Double Click on Network Adapters If any one of those are disabled or have a Yellow Exclamation mark on them you should be able to fix that pretty easily. Additionally, if you remove the card and nothing disappears from that list, you are guaranteed that it is for something else other than networking.

Thomas, you are absolutely correct that the the CD drive is married to the motherboard. The fact that it reads DVD's and not games is generally an indication that either the board has a problem or the drive was spoofed. Story Time! When I first got my Xbox 360 I decided to hack my drive so that I could play burned games, and to do this I purchased a second drive for the system and spoofed the firmware from the original drive on the new one. It worked well for about 3-4 years, but one day my system did an update and all of a sudden I had difficulty getting these same games to run. I ended up having to eject the tray many times before i could get it to read burned or genuine games, and then install the game to the drive so that I did not get read errors when I did manage to get it to open, after a while I got sick of having to eject the games constantly, so I simply put the original drive back in and started playing genuine Xbox games, and have not had any problem reading those. The whole time I was having...