There are magnetic switches to either side of the keyboard evident when the bottom cover is removed, right? On the far side edges. Perhaps those aren't working? This model has that 'boot up when the lid is raised' feature -- annoying as all get out. Just guessing here. Not sure what you mean by 'messing with the touch bar' -- elaborate?
Another solution to fixing a non-working speedometer in an older toyota (1992-1995) is here: https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/199...-toyota-pickup-speedometer-stopped-working.360605/
My solution was cleaning the cooling vents to allow the system to breath — core temps didn’t approach the auto-cutoff. I suspect the interior boards and bits need a good dusting, too — that’ll be the next step if the exterior cooling doesn’t resolve things completely. Design flaw — too pretty for its own good so it can’t breath worth a dang — fans included.
Acer's 'method' of having the recovery data is to have the user make a recovery disc BEFORE the acer dies. A travelmate 4230 I'm working on has this lovely feature, which is utterly useless once something causes Windows to puke. Win XP in this case. So if you do not make the recovery disk ahead of time, and cannot safe boot into Windows, you are hosed and have to buy the recovery disks from acer. Next time, I'm buying an apple. At least they include the discs with their products.
Whoa -- missing one of the very, very first things you should check: the clock/PRAM battery. If it is under 3.6 VDC, then it should be replaced before any other surgery. It can be the cause of MANY Mac problems -- including many of the listed above.
This is a difficult project. It is imperative that you read the entire guide before you proceed. Have a system in place to keep track of the screws so you know what goes where. Budget several hours for this.
Not quite sure what this guy is smoking, but he didn't share with the class. The hard drive replacement takes less than 5 minutes and is absolutely within the ability of anyone over the age of 7.