iPad 9 LTE Button Control Cable Replacement

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the iPad for two minutes.

While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:

Front camera

Ambient light sensors

Antennas

Display cables

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.

Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.

Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

Skip the next step.

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.

Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.

Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

Slide the first opening pick towards to top-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the iPad for two minutes.

Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the front camera.

Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the iPad to completely separate the top adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.

Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the iPad for two minutes.

Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the corner before moving to the next step.

Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.

Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.

Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.

Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the iPad for two minutes.

Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.

Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove any tape covering the LCD screws.

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm screws securing the LCD screen.

Insert a spudger between the frame and the top-right portion of the LCD.

Pry slowly with the spudger to separate the adhesive.

Repeat the previous step for the top-left portion of the LCD.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.

Flip the LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the frame.

Lay the LCD on a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.

Remove the display cable bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the LCD cable press connector.

Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.

Use a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two digitizer cable press connectors.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the buffer block near the bottom-right corner of the iPad.

Remove the buffer block.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the home button cable away from the frame.

Remove the front panel assembly.

If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.

Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape from the upper component bracket.

Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the the upper component bracket:

Three 1.4 mm-long screws

Two 1.9 mm-long screws

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers.

Use your fingers to peel the upper component bracket away from the tape.

Remove the upper component bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera press connector.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the rear camera for thirty seconds.

Use a spudger to pry the rear camera out of the frame.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the rear camera.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the sensor.

Peel the right ambient light sensor towards the right edge of the device, enough to access the screw behind it.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.3 mm-long screws securing the lock button bracket.

Use your fingers to pull the power button bracket out of its recess.

Peel the button control cable away from the volume button bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm-long screws securing the volume button bracket to the rear case.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the volume button bracket away from the device's edge.

Remove the volume button bracket.

Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.

Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the button control cable's ZIF connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the button control cable straight out of the ZIF connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to push the volume buttons out of their slots in the rear case.

Remove the button control cable.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the button control cable for thirty seconds.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the upper volume button.

Insert an opening pick between the volume control cable and the upper volume button.

Peel the volume control cable off of the upper volume button.

Repeat the same process to peel the volume control cable off of the lower volume button.

Use a pair of tweezers to grip the power button bracket.

Insert a halberd spudger or opening pick between the power button bracket and the button control cable.

Peel the button control cable up and off of the pegs on the power button bracket.

Only the button control cable remains.