Введение
If your iPhone 11 screen is cracked, not responding to touch, or not showing a picture when powered on, use this guide to get your iPhone working again with a new screen assembly.
This guide is written for replacement screen assemblies with the metal LCD shield plate pre-installed. If your new screen does not include the plate, follow this guide instead to complete your repair.
The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the screen is paired to your individual iPhone at the factory, so you must transfer it carefully from your old screen to your new one using the instructions below. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID won’t work, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple’s “authorized” technicians can restore Face ID function.
Note: True Tone functionality won’t work after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
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If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute.
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If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap under the screen and the plastic bezel, not the screen itself.
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Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
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Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
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Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.
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Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
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Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
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Pull the small nub on the suction cup to detach it from the front panel.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Prop the display up against something sturdy.
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To access the screws in the following step, tilt the display by slightly lifting its lower edge.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the three 1.1 mm-long screws securing the battery connector bracket.
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Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally contacting the socket.
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Use a Y000 driver to remove the five 1.1 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.
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Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD panel cable connector.
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Disconnect the digitizer connector next to it.
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Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
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Remove four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
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Three 1.6 mm Phillips screws
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One 1.3 mm Y000 screw
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Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
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Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
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Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
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Carefully slide the edge of your opening pick underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
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Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
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If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.
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Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
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Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
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Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
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Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
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Proximity sensor
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Flood illuminator
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The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
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To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our iPhone 11 Answers community for help.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
154 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
9 Комментариев
Zu Schritt 13:
Was kann ich tun wenn die Metallplatte sich nicht aus dem Gehäuse löst?
Versuchen Sie, das Telefon beim zweiten Mal dort erneut aufzuwärmen, wo es in der Anleitung angegeben ist. Vielleicht versuchen Sie auch, Ihren iOpener für längere Zeit in der Mikrowelle zu erhitzen/zu erhitzen. Wenn das nicht funktioniert, überprüfen Sie, ob keine weiteren Schrauben entfernt werden müssen. Und das Letzte, was Sie versuchen könnten, wäre, ein paar andere Hebelwerkzeuge zu verwenden und/oder zu versuchen, es in einer anderen Richtung aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen.
During reassembly, is there a step in which I need to apply adhesive? (asking since you find adhesive as you disassemble)
Most often you will re-apply the adhesive to the new LCD assembly itself. Note that the part you will need is designed to provide waterproofing to the device. If you put the adhesive + waterproof seal onto the new LCD incorrectly then the device will not be waterproof. Note: I'm no qualified professional, and I'm only a 9th grader but I have lots of experience with this particular repair and I have almost mastered it.( I have fixed maybe 7 or 8 iPhone 11s alone) And in my experience, applying the new adhesive + seal to the new LCD assembly has always worked out great and resulted in a happy customer and good feedback.
I had the same problem, I had ordered a display plus adhesive here at iFixit shop, but there were no instruction how to attach it. I looked at manuals of other adhesives and found a proper way, that worked for me: Before reattaching the display cables I attached the adhesive on the phone, not on the display. At first you have to remove all old adhesive properly, if you have isopropanol you can use it to clean the frame. Then you remove the protective sheet (the side with the tab) from the new adhersive, place it carefully on the phone and press it with a spudger all around the frame. The protective sheet on this side is made of different parts so you can remove them on parts where you have to work on. Then you can attach the display cables and the battery cable and test if it works. If all works fine you can remove the last protective sheets and go on to attach the whole display unit.
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