Введение
Use this guide to replace the Lightning connector assembly in your iPhone 7 Plus, which can resolve many charging and connectivity issues that cleaning cannot always fix.
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Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
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Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
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Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
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Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
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Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
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Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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Skip the next three steps.
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Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
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Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
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Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
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Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap.
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Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
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Stop near the top left corner of the display.
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Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
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Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
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Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
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Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
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Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
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Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
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Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:
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Three 1.2 mm screws
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One 2.6 mm screw
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Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
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Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:
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One 1.3 mm screw
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Two 1.0 mm screws
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Remove the bracket.
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Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove three Phillips screws securing the antenna component:
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Two 1.3 mm screws
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One 1.2 mm screw
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Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.
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Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone.
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Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
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Press firmly to eject the tray.
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Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49
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Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
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One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
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One 2.2 mm standoff screw
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Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.
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Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.
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Remove the remaining Phillips screw from the antenna flex cable.
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Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.
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Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.
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Tilt the antenna flex cable up toward the top of the iPhone.
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Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.
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Remove the antenna flex cable.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use a thin pry tool or tweezers to carefully pry up and disconnect the two coaxial cable connectors from the logic board.
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Disconnect the two remaining ribbon cables from the logic board:
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Disconnect the upper cable connector by prying from the top
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Disconnect the Lightning port connector by prying along the outer edge
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit$2.99
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Remove the seven screws securing the logic board:
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One 1.3 mm Phillips screw
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Two 2.1 mm standoff screws
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One 2.0 mm standoff screw with a large head
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One 2.0 mm standoff screw with a small head
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Two 2.2 mm standoff screws
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Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.
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Use the point of a spudger to carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the small metal clip holding them to the logic board.
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Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it.
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Remove the following two Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case:
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One 2.9 mm screw
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One 2.1 mm screw
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Gently push the barometric vent in the direction of the Taptic Engine to separate the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Pry up the Taptic Engine's ribbon cable connector to disconnect it.
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Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
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Carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the metal bracket holding them to the side of the speaker.
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Remove the five Phillips screws securing the speaker:
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Three 1.3 mm screws
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One 2.3 mm screw
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One 3.3 mm screw
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Remove the following three Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector:
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Two 1.7 mm screws
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One 2.8 mm screw
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Remove the two 1.2 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning port to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
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Use the sharp edge of an iFixit Opening Tool to pry the two microphones free from the adhesive securing them in place.
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Slide an opening pick or thin pry tool underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating it from the rear case.
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Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.
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Carefully slide your pick from the corner of the battery to the corner of the iPhone to separate the portion of the flex cable adhered to the outer frame.
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Slide your pick across the width of the iPhone to separate all the remaining strands of the flex cable from the rear case.
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Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
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Use a plastic tool to scour any bits of adhesive residue from the rear case.
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You can clean any remaining residue from the surface with isopropyl alcohol (90% concentration or greater) and a lint-free cloth. Wipe in one direction only, not back and forth.
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Make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned so that the two white dots on the iPhone's rear case show through the two circular cutouts in the Lightning flex cable. If they don't, the flex cable will remain misaligned and you won't be able to reconnect it to its socket on the logic board.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
197 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
41 Комментариев
NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)
I have this issue but cant seem to get it to set properly? any ideas the po seems like it's in fine but wont connect to logic board
I feel like this is the most important piece of information on this entire guide. I drove myself mad disassembling and reassembling multiple iPhone 7/8 Plus devices with this exact issue.
Conrad -
So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?
So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!
