Have you tried WD-40?

This ought to do it: Dell Optiplex 745 SFF Power Supply

Try running your virus scan from Safe Mode/Safe Mode with Networking, and seeing if it comes up clean. Regardless of your chosen Anti-Virus package, download and install the freeware version of Malwarebytes Anti-Malware. It tends to find things that other Anti-Virus packages/suites do not always find. It should also be run in Safe Mode/Safe Mode with Networking. Also, try cleaning out any junk files, and disabling things running in the background. You can use a variety of tools to do this; to remove junk files I recommend Cleanup! 4.5.2 and CCleaner. The free versions of both software will suffice; but if you like either, feel free to pick up a license (or donate, in the case of Cleanup!). CCleaner gives you the ability to remove/disable startup items, which you may also want to do in order to optimize system load times. Depending on how much RAM is installed in your system, you may consider an upgrade. 2GB is standard, but on the low side; 4GB is more common: but depending on the number of programs you're...

Random restarting is generally attributed to overheating. Get yourself a cooling pad, or allow the system to sit somewhere it can breathe without anything getting in the way of the fans/exhaust ports. If upon examination, you determine there is dust or other buildup in the fan, vents, or exhaust ports, You might try to vacuum them out--but do not use a metal vacuum tip (due to static electricity discharge concerns) and use some sort of mesh over the vacuum attachment opening so you don't suck up any loose small parts that have been or become dislodged. You can try using canned air--and most people do, to try and blow out the machine without opening it up--but a word of caution. When you apply strong bursts of air directly to the fan assembly, you can easily damage the ball bearings which can cause the fan to become noisy or potentially even slow to the point of ineffectiveness.

Pull the memory, and then put a single stick back in (Slot 0, generally closest to the CPU if not labeled.) Try to boot it up. If you get past the beep codes, you may be fine. If they happen again, try swapping the stick you plugged in with the other you pulled (assuming you have more than one). If unplugging both sticks of RAM doesn't work, start troubleshooting your boot errors by disconnecting everything not needed for POST (Motherboard, CPU, Memory, Keyboard, & Video Card). The CMOS battery will allow you to remove any BIOS password configured on the machine--but because of how your question is phrased, I just want to clarify that it will not affect the Windows Administrator password in any way. Leave the CMOS battery disconnected for 20-30 seconds, and ensure the PC is not connected to a power supply while you do this. If your machine is connected to power, wait an additional 20-30 seconds after unplugging from the wall (so any residual charge can dissipate through the various voltage drops on the...

Hi Ebert, While the machine is running, place your ear next to the machine and listen for any signs of hard drive failure. Provided you have a mechanical hard drive, sounds of spinning up, clicking/clunking and then spinning up again, etc. may be signs that you accidentally damaged the hard drive. A healthy mechanical hard drive has somewhat of a chattering/popping sound. Also--depending on just how hard it was slammed--It may be a good idea to 're-seat' the memory, as a poorly seated chip may become partly dislodged in the even of jarring. Start there, and please let us know how it goes.

Cleaning the board with isopropyl alcohol doesn't get underneath the chips. You may want to consider sending your board out to someone who does board-level repair and cleaning, like what Luis Rossman does in NYC. If you do repairs on a regular basis, you may want to invest in an ultrasonic cleaner to repair water damaged boards yourself. Here is a link to a youtube video that may explain things further. Please excuse the language. Luis Rossman - Ultrasonic cleaner for repairing Macbook logic boards

I have to say, at first blush, it sounds like a corrupted installation of Windows. The solution there would be to either run a repair, or to reinstall a fresh copy of your operating system. It could be simply software corruption, but don't rule out a hard drive on the fritz, or getting ready to die on you. Before you do much of anything, try to get a backup. If you have access to another computer, you can yank the hard drive from the non-functioning one and use one of these to plug in the hard drive and pull important data off before you delve into the world of troubleshooting. When diagnosing issues that force the system to restart without any warning, your best bet is to start removing extraneous components and working backwards until you figure out what *does* work in a minimum system build. Remember MVP: Minimum Viable Product. This can be time consuming, and I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that there are kits available to thoroughly test the hardware if you have the money and time is at a premium....

Are there any CDs that work correctly in your drive? Is this problem Is the problem also occurring for DVDs, or only CDs? And what type of CDs are you attempting to play? Some internal devices get finicky if you're trying to read from a CD-RW or even some cheap brands of CD-R. You can try running a CD Lens cleaner, which is a Compact Disc with a tiny brush on it that is designed to remove dust and debris from the lens of the drive, but they're not always terribly effective. It may be worth trying the same function from within Safe Mode (or Safe Mode with Networking) to see if the problem is related to software running on your PC, but if you're still seeing the error message in Safe Mode then the problem is either related to the drive (they do go bad) or a mis-configuration of Windows. The other thing you could try is attempting to create a bootable CD, like a Linux Live CD (using another computer, if you have one handy) and booting to that. If you're able to boot successfully, chances are the problems are...

It can definitely be done. Here is a link to the iFixit Guide: Macbook Pro 13" Retina Display SSD Upgrade Guide (A1502) Also take a look at OWC's Aura & Aura Pro line of SSDs for this model: OWC - Macbook Pro Retina - Internal Flash Drive