Just a thought here... I prefer internal PCI/PCI-express sound cards but if you're at all apprehensive about performing this installation then you may want to consider a USB-attached (also known as external) sound card. Perhaps something like this is more appealing than ripping the computer apart? http://us.store.creative.com/Sound-Blaster-XFi-Go-Pro/M/B0044DEDC0.htm I'm not saying that you need a Creative Sound Blaster XFi but you'll get the idea. Good luck! :-)

Hey folks, I'm happy to report that I just fixed this same issue. I actually went deep into the machine, removed the hard drive, verified it using another Mac, made a backup of all the files, and then reinstalled the hard drive only to find out that the same problem still existed. A few hours wasted. Here's how I fixed it: (1) Insert the Apple OS X DVD that came with the iMac (mine came with Disk 1 and Disk 2: insert disk 1). (2) If the iMac is running already then press and hold the power button for 5 to 10 seconds (hard power-down) (3) Now, with the iMac still powered off, press the C key on the keyboard and power-up to boot from the optical drive (4) You will see the OS X installation screen... don't worry - there's good news ahead (5) You want to choose to do an "Archive and Install" which will literally archive your old OS X installation and reinstall OS X from the DVD. Don't worry: you have the option of bringing your user profiles back to life as well. For various reasons, at the time of writing...

1. Have you tried borrowing another power adapter to see if the symptoms are the same? 2. Power down the notebook. Use a Q-Tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean the charging port. 3. I don't have many suggestions about the battery other than 'remove and replace' Another thought related to #3: the DC-in board on the inside of the computer may have been damaged (it is on the left side as well) however I'm not certain that you'd be able to power your computer at all if this part was damaged. Battery Reference: Installing MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Battery DC-in Board Reference: Installing MacBook Pro 13" Unibody DC-In Board

Let the phone's battery go completely dead... I mean dead to the point that the "charge battery" screen no longer appears when you press the 'home' button. (The logic here is that if the power is completely removed to the system it may reset the internal components.) I think that you're most likely going to have to take it apart but I'd try this 'no cost' possible fix first. Give it a try - nothing to lose but time at this point. Good luck!

I realize that this is an older question but I feel compelled to add my experience for reference to anyone who may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Drobo FS is an excellent way to add a file sharing device to a small network but potential buyers should be aware of it's pros and cons when compared to a file server. In the interest of full disclosure I will also say that I am an authorized Drobo reseller however people should thoroughly understand what Drobo 'is' and 'is not'. Pros (1) Drobo maintains it's self: endless Windows patches don't apply here (2) Drobo will let you know if something is wrong: easy to read LED lighting on the front panel (3) Drobo is redundant: you can have one hard drive crash and keep going (if a drive crashes it will display a blinking red light beside the dead drive - you simply pull the dead drive out and replace with a new one) (4) Drobo is scalable: start with two drives and buy more as required Cons (1) Drobo can't take over the role of a Windows Small Business...

Please forgive me if I've overlooked something but let's start a little further back. Please attempt to access the router's admin page by entering this into your browser: '''http://www.routerlogin.net''' If you've successfully reset your router then this should work (as long as you haven't configured your PC/Mac to use alternate DNS servers) and the username and password should have also been reset to admin / password for username / password respectively. I have some questions: 1. Why are you trying to use 192.168.1.2 ? If you've reset the router then the IP should actually be 192.168.1.1 2. Please check to see that you're getting an IP address from the router. (In Windows: START > Run... > (type) cmd [press enter] (command shell opens) type ipconfig [enter] Hope this helps in some way! Edit to cite source on information used: http://kb.netgear.com/app/answers/detail...

Note regarding re-assembly:

I disassembled the PowerBook to replace a faulty DC board and then began performing the steps in reverse to reassemble.

When I arrived at step 38 I realized that I needed to loosen the torx and hex I tightened in step 43 in order to properly align the holes in the DC / sound board to install the PC Card carriage. Once I had the holes lined up and the phillips reinstalled in the PC Card carriage I re-tightened the torx and hex and carried on counting down.

I would like to suggest (as an alternative to step 5) not peeling the entire banana. Reason being is that the peel can actually work as protection from contaminants that may reside upon your hands and also it will protect the hands from becoming gummy from the fruit.

Peel as required until the tasty goodness has been consumed!