Hey @tristan31196! In order to recover your Chromebook, you have two choices: recover it over the internet, or create a recovery USB drive. To recover it using the internet, click the "Recovery using internet connection" button. It should walk you through the steps necessary to recover your operating system using the internet. Alternatively, you can also recover the OS by creating a USB recovery media. To do this, you'll need another working computer, and a USB stick. On the working computer, open Chrome, and install the Chromebook Recovery Utility browser extension you can download from the Chrome Web Store. I'm not sure if you'll be able to download it on your managed Chromebook, but it's worth a shot! If you aren't you might need to either borrow a computer from a friend, or you could also go to a store such as Best Buy that has computers up for you to play with, and you could complete the process on one of those. Once you have the extension installed, plug in your flash drive and launch the extension....

Hello @papaslocas! That screen means you have bitlocker encryption on that machine. Basically, everything on it is encoded, and in order to decode it, you need to enter a special code. If it is your machine, you should be able to go to the first link it shows, and find a code. However, if you acquired this computer used or it wasn't setup under you and you can't contact the original owner, you'll need to wipe it, and the normal methods probably won't work. Just a warning: doing this will erase all data on that machine, so I hope there isn't anything important on it. If so, the only way to get it back is by entering the code. You will need another computer running Windows, and you'll also need a USB flash drive that you don't mind erasing that is at least 8 GB. First, search "download windows 10" (or 11 if that's what you want on the computer). Then click the top link, which should be a link to microsoft's website. Click the download button there. It should download a program on your computer. Once it...

Hey @ferwatch01! I'm not entirely sure that this is the problem, but one thing that could be the problem is the CMOS battery being dead. The CMOS is a small coin cell battery (Usually CR2032) that is on the motherboard of most computers, and it allows the internal clock to keep running and BIOS settings to be maintained when the main battery is dead and the system is unplugged. Depending on the computer, a dead one could stop the machine from booting, or simply cause it to complain quite a lot about the date and time not being set. These can often die every few years, so a machine that has been in storage for a while could certainly have a dead one. The process for replacing it varies from machine to machine, but I'd start by taking off the small access door on the back of the machine. Look for a battery that looks like this (ignore the devices in the corners of the image). If it isn't under the access door, you may have to remove the entire back of the computer to access it. Again, this varies from...

Hello @delingren! You're actually in good company here. There are many who have taken a MacBook with a busted screen, like yours, and simply amputated the screen to get a nice desktop computer with a built-in battery, keyboard, and trackpad. For your first concern about the wireless antennas, you're in luck! As you can see here, the wireless antennas are actually in a bar right around the the hinge in the bottom section of the computer, so Wi-Fi and Bluetooth will still function with the display gone. Also, about the display problem, you can just press Command+F1 to enable mirroring mode if the laptop ever tries displaying your login screen or anything else on the absent built-in screen. I double-checked that this works with a 2017 MacBook running Ventura, and it does, so you'll always have a plan if that does happen. There are also many good videos and articles online about using a headless MacBook, so you may want to check those out before you proceed. Good luck and enjoy your headless MacBook!

Hey @miguelcano! I'd say it'd technically work with Windows 10, but it probably won't be much fun to use. Because it is so old, it will have trouble running that new operating system and may be unusable slow. And, as @mike pointed out, you can't upgrade the RAM any further and the hard drive interface is a major bottleneck. A better solution would be to look into alternatives to Windows. If you don't require a specific software program that only runs on Windows, I'd look into installing Linux on your machine. There are many different versions (Called "Distros"), that are optimized for different uses. My personal favorite for older machines is called AntiX. It runs on practically anything and provides a responsive, modern experience on outdated hardware. If you go with AntiX instead of Windows, you may even be able to use it without performing any upgrades! It doesn't look amazing, but it will do almost everything most people need from a computer. Just Google it, and you should find it and instructions for...

It could be the touchpad, but there's a chance it could also be the little red "Trackpoint" in the center of the keyboard. The way the mouse is drifting instead of bouncing around defnitely seems more like a trackpoint problem. To confirm this, I'd disable the trackpoint in Device Manager. To do this, type Device Manager into the Start Menu. When it's open, go to the pointing devices section (I think). In that subcategory, you should find your trackpad and trackpoint. From there, double-click the trackpoint, then click disable device in the window that comes up. If the problem goes away, you know the trackpoint is at fault. If it isn't something you use much, you can keep it disabled. If the problem persists, you should start looking into a trackpad replacement. If you have any more questions, just leave a comment. Hope this helps!

Hello @jadonlyon! That sound is the sound that AirPods make when they are separated from their owner's device. The idea is if you planted them on someone with the malicious intent to track them, the person would hear the noise every time the AirPods are moved and find them. Obviously, you're not doing that. When it makes the noise, have they been separated from your iPhone for a long time? Is Bluetooth on your iPhone left on? If either of these things have happened, that could be the cause of the noise.

Hi @josh76101! I looked up your model of iMac here, which, according to this, is the same as EMC 2833. Looking up that, I discovered that Apple sold several models of this computer, including one that only had a blade SSD installed and no HDD. Follow this guide to find it. If you find that you have that model, you can just slot your new SATA SSD in the cradle you attached a picture of and all should be well. Since you probably already have an SSD with an OS installed, there's a good chance you won't need to reinstall macOS. However, if you do have the factory SSD model (as opposed to a factory-installed HDD one), I would be very surprised if it was actually faulty, leading me to believe that your non-booting computer may have another problem. If you provide us with more info, we'll be able to help you fix it. Let us know how it goes!

Hi @usamasufi It appears it is possible to replace your HDD with an SSD. First, turn it on and back up all your data. Then, turn it off, unplug it, and follow this guide to remove your back cover. Once that is removed, just unplug the hard drive (in the red box in the below picture) and plug in your new SSD. You may have to remove some screws in order to get the old drive out. If you need a new SSD to put in, iFixit has a nice 500GB one. Also, while you're at it, you could create a guide so others tackling this same repair will have an easier time fixing their computers. Good luck!

Hi @yaredtaye! Do you have a multimeter? If so, remove the power button board from the computer and follow this guide to check the button for continuity. If the meter beeps while you push the button, it is functional. You may have to experiment to find out which line is which. If it isn't faulty, you may have a problem with the cable connecting the board to the motherboard, or the motherboard itself. If indeed it is faulty, you should be able to find a replacement board on eBay or just solder a new button in. Good luck!