To fix my no communications issue, I connected the 2 pairs of CAN wires at the Front Control Module. I don’t know where that second pair of wires is supposed to be connected, but jumping it to the first pair of CAN wires made the system communicate. But the engine still would not try to start. Fast forward to this weekend and I made some more progress . I had previously not connected the ECM C1 pin 30 (yellow wire, "FUSED IGNITION SWITCH OUTPUT (START)") because I was not using the ECM to trigger the starter relay. Apparently the ECM needs this input to know when the engine is being started (as opposed to just providing fuel & spark based on cam & crank signal inputs). Now it starts (mostly) and I’ve got some drive-ability issues to sort out.

Sounds like your house is on the edge of a cellular “dead zone” and stepping inside is just enough blockage to kill your signal completely. If you have wifi available in your house, turn on “Wifi Calling” on your phone. This will make your phone send & receive calls over the internet instead of over the cell system.

I don't see any TSBs listed for this problem on your car. I have seen other cars that leaked in through where the brake lights are mounted. Is the leak on one side only or on both sides?

The first step is always to check the computer for a stored diagnostic trouble code. You will need a scan tool to do this but some auto parts stores will run this check for you.

There is no choke on a computer controlled car. First step would be to check the computer memory for trouble codes. Since the problem is temperature related, I would check the coolant temperature sensor to see if it is giving the computer the correct reading.

My wife's Audi was doing something similar, the driver's side window was getting slower and slower and eventually stopped moving at all. I thought the motor was fried and I as not liking the idea of replacing it (for the tune of several hundred dollars for the part). After removing the door panel and unbolting the motor from the regulator, I plugged the wires back into the motor and tried the switch only to be pleasantly surprised by a working window motor. Long story ---> short, the window regulator was binding up from a lack of lubrication. (This car happens to have a cable-lift style regulator). I sprayed WD-40 over everything and used clear silicone grease where the glass rides in the window channels. The window has been quite happy ever since. Hope this helps, BILL

Most Chrysler charging systems overcharge the battery which causes outgassing, which causes corrosion, which causes resistance at the connections, which causes a higher than normal charging voltage. Yes, it's built-in catch-22 situation. Clean up the terminals and the connectors, treat them with baking soda & water and buy some of those chemical washers that go under the terminals. I have also seen people encase the terminals with grease, but that seems like a mess just waiting to happen. BILL (former Dodge mechanic)

A multiple misfire can certainly cause the engine to surge. You said you know what this was from - please elaborate. The tachometer is just showing what the engine is already doing; it does not affect how the engine runs. I still say there is something else going on in your computer system. Checking trouble codes is only one thing to check. Most scan tools can also check sensor values while the engine is running, and if you know what the sensor should be reading, a bad one can be spotted easily. BILL

I have a 1501 that is at least 5 years old. I've replaced the outer case (plastic) once because of damage and battery life is on the short side. Other than that, no real issues. (knock on wood) BILL

There should be an adjustment link on one side which will allow you to raise/lower that side to even it with the other side. Also check to see if you have a bent blade on one side that is cutting in an un-level manner. Rocks and other debris can easily bend a blade. BILL