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Введение

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive will damage your speakers if it comes in contact with the plastic speaker enclosures. This guide instructs you to remove the speakers before proceeding to the battery.

If you're using the old-style iFixit adhesive remover with separate bottle and syringe (no longer sold), click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.

  1. Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
    • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - Ответить

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - Ответить

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - Ответить

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - Ответить

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - Ответить

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - Ответить

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - Ответить

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - Ответить

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - Ответить

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - Ответить

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - Ответить

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - Ответить

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - Ответить

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - Ответить

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Ответить

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - Ответить

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - Ответить

    Hi. I got your beautiful guide and I got a toolkit, unfortunately not the ifix it and everything is ready to start the operation. But the P5 seems to be too big for the screws of my late 2013 a1398. Are there more than one types/ sizes of P5?

    Chrysovalantis Lamprianidis - Ответить

  2. Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
    • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

    • Set the lower case aside.

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - Ответить

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - Ответить

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - Ответить

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - Ответить

  3. Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
    • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - Ответить

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - Ответить

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - Ответить

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - Ответить

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - Ответить

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - Ответить

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - Ответить

  4. Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - Ответить

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - Ответить

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - Ответить

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - Ответить

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - Ответить

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - Ответить

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - Ответить

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - Ответить

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - Ответить

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - Ответить

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - Ответить

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - Ответить

  5. Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
    • Use a spudger or tweezers to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

    • The cable connection points are fragile. Be careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket or cable.

    • To reconnect, align the connector carefully into position over the socket, and press it down firmly with the flat of your spudger.

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - Ответить

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - Ответить

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - Ответить

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - Ответить

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - Ответить

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - Ответить

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - Ответить

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

    Jurgen -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - Ответить

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - Ответить

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - Ответить

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - Ответить

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - Ответить

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Ответить

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - Ответить

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - Ответить

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - Ответить

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - Ответить

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - Ответить

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - Ответить

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - Ответить

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - Ответить

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - Ответить

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - Ответить

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - Ответить

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - Ответить

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - Ответить

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - Ответить

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - Ответить

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - Ответить

  6. Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector toward the fan and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, first on one side, then the other, to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket. Do not pry up, or you will damage the socket.

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - Ответить

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - Ответить

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - Ответить

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - Ответить

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - Ответить

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - Ответить

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - Ответить

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - Ответить

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - Ответить

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - Ответить

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - Ответить

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - Ответить

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - Ответить

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - Ответить

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - Ответить

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - Ответить

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - Ответить

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

  7. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan. Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive. Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

    • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

    • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - Ответить

  8. Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
    • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

    • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - Ответить

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - Ответить

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - Ответить

  9. Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.  On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex. In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board. Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

    • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

    • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - Ответить

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - Ответить

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - Ответить

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - Ответить

    After freeing each end of the I/O cable, it can be left stuck to the right speaker, and then remove them both together in step 14.

    Paul Clarke - Ответить

  10. Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

  11. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.
    • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - Ответить

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - Ответить

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - Ответить

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - Ответить

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - Ответить

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - Ответить

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - Ответить

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - Ответить

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - Ответить

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - Ответить

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - Ответить

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - Ответить

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - Ответить

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

  13. Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

  14. Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
    • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - Ответить

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - Ответить

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - Ответить

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - Ответить

  16. Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - Ответить

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - Ответить

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - Ответить

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - Ответить

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - Ответить

  17. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

    • Lift the left fan out of the device.

    • When reinstalling the fan, it's easiest connect the fan ribbon cable as you drop the fan in place, rather than after you've installed the three fan screws.

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - Ответить

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - Ответить

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - Ответить

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - Ответить

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - Ответить

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - Ответить

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - Ответить

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - Ответить

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

  18. Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
    • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - Ответить

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - Ответить

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - Ответить

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - Ответить

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - Ответить

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - Ответить

  19. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

  20. Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer. Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - Ответить

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - Ответить

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - Ответить

  21. Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board. Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
    • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

    • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - Ответить

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - Ответить

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - Ответить

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - Ответить

  22. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    After connect the cable aux is not working

    deepak selvanathan - Ответить

    Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.

    Ross Karnes - Ответить

    Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway

    Cameron Melvin - Ответить

    Mine not soldered.

    Paul Clarke - Ответить

  23. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

    • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

    This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:

    http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...

    My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!

    Rich - Ответить

    Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.

    Kitipong Mork - Ответить

    Not sure what happened, but when I put it back together, i barely had enough room to plug this back in. It’s like the cable shrunk. I had to really yank on it to get it to fit.

    Jer - Ответить

    Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.

    Calvin Truong - Ответить

    i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?

    Steven Rai - Ответить

  24. Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.
    • Peel back any tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

    On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.

    Fred Anderson - Ответить

    I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(

    sturmjonny - Ответить

    This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is really a pain to pull out. You sorta have to lift it up and out - I was worried I was going to flex the cable and break it too much.

    Jer - Ответить

    Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.

    Andrew Dunning - Ответить

    This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.

    Jay Rajamanickam - Ответить

  25. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Pry only under the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself, or you may break it off the board.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently back the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket by pushing first at one side, then the other.

    What is the connector to the right of the keyboard (shown in the above diagram i.e with battery at the bottom)?

    There doesn’t seem to be anything attached to this connector on my system.

    The trackpad connector looks quite similar to the leftof thekeyboard connector.

    Darrell Haslam - Ответить

  26. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  27. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  28. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

    A small elastic popped out when removing the cable. Glad I wore the protective glasses.

    Louie - Ответить

    Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

  29. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    I'd recommend using the pliers.

    Calvin Truong - Ответить

  30. Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near to the MagSafe 2 connector.

  31. Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.8 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.2 mm Raised Head T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.5 mm Silver T5 Torx screw

    While you're doing this, unplug the right speaker before you lift the logic board. That is the only step missing in the guide.

    anthony - Ответить

    anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.

    Kitipong Mork - Ответить

    when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.

    Robert Gregory - Ответить

    green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)

    auntialias - Ответить

  32. Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board. When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.
    • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the logic board, check the cables at the marked locations to make sure they don't get pinned underneath the logic board.

    • Clockwise from top: keyboard, trackpad, battery, right speaker, keyboard backlight, display, microphone, headphone jack, left speaker.

    In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.

    Then I followed bullet #2.

    Kitipong Mork - Ответить

    Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - Ответить

    Agreed with Radoslaw's comment. It might even be nice to have a list of small cables to watch for during logic board reassembly.

    talarohk - Ответить

    @radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.

    Jeff Suovanen - Ответить

    Yes heed everyone’s warning. I had to remove the entire logic board TWICE because i forgot to pull out the antennae and the backlit keyboard plug.

    Jer - Ответить

    Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.

    E Carlton Hays Jr - Ответить

    My logic board was stuck under the battery PCB, on the top right side of the battery PCB, when viewed like in the first picture.

    I suggest removing the two screws from step 35 holding the PCB down for a little more wiggle room before attempting to remove the logic board.

    Tom - Ответить

    I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images

    Yemi Dalley - Ответить

    In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP

    raul - Ответить

    reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.

    Timothy de Wal - Ответить

    Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.

    Calvin Truong -

    100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.

    kevinhayes656 -

    Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!

    privat - Ответить

    I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.

    Jonathan McCaffrey -

    Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.

    The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.

    Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.

    I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.

    One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.

    Steve Hills - Ответить

    For me, this step was the most hard part when reassemble. Because it is easy to forget or hard to reconnect MagSafe 2 connector properly. I had to give in to professionals just to find out i couldn’t plug this MagSafe 2 connector properly. because of it’s limited angle and i only have 2 hands to do the job while board is lifted.

    kmg125 - Ответить

    Instead of disconnecting the magsafe socket, I unscrewed the two screws holding it to the case. Then, when the logic board is removed, the connector will slide out with the logic board. Also useful to if theres a bunch of magnetic junk stuck to the adapter as it becomes easy to clean.

    max - Ответить

  33. Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
    • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

  34. Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case: One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
    • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - Ответить

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - Ответить

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - Ответить

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - Ответить

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

  35. Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case: One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
    • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - Ответить

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    I used the flat spudger to loosing the glue underneath the speaker to remove it.

    KC89 - Ответить

  36. Remove the two 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.
    • Remove the two 3.9 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

    When rebuilding, be sure not to pin the square trackpad ribbon cable connector under the wide keyboard ribbon cable. It should be over the keyboard ribbon.

    Chapman Harrison - Ответить

    I did this step before step 32. Loosening these screws helped me remove the logic board, which was trapped under this thing.

    max - Ответить

  37. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    I was wondering how it could leak. I suppose you could spill it, or flood the battery space with it and it leaks through the trackpad.

    Jer - Ответить

    You’re correct. On most models, it’s unlikely to leak unless you use way too much. The foil is a “better-safe-than-sorry” precaution.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    At this point removing the screen is a matter of minutes so to be safe I just removed the display assembly all together.

    Tom - Ответить

    In my case it leaked through the trackpad…. I had a transparent film (instead of aluminium) and it did not damage the screen.

    derdietrich - Ответить

  38. With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book. In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.
    • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

  39. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

    Acetone is not the greatest thing but it’s in common solvents. For example, it’s in nail polish remover. It’s a good idea to do this in a well ventilated area.

    I like how iFixit decides to dye the acetone blue….. it's normally clear.

    Jer - Ответить

  40. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  41. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    You don’t need more than 1mil. It will use capillary action and go along the entire side.

    IMHO, you can start wedging about 20 seconds. The acetone dissolves the adhesive almost immediately, and acetone dries up really fast.

    Jer - Ответить

  42. Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell. It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.
    • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

  43. Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it. Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  44. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    You don’t really need to wait 2 to 3 minutes. It starts dissolving right away. In fact if you wait too long, it will dry up again.

    Jer - Ответить

  45. Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell. Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath. Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

    • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  46. It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro. Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side: Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.
    • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

    • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

  47. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the rear edge of your MacBook Pro, near the display hinges. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the rear edge of your MacBook Pro, near the display hinges.
    • Remove your book or foam block and place it under the rear edge of your MacBook Pro, near the display hinges.

  48. Grab the battery connector or the top edge of the plastic battery frame and lift it slightly, exposing the top edge of the two center battery cells. Grab the battery connector or the top edge of the plastic battery frame and lift it slightly, exposing the top edge of the two center battery cells.
    • Grab the battery connector or the top edge of the plastic battery frame and lift it slightly, exposing the top edge of the two center battery cells.

  49. While lifting the plastic battery frame out of the way, apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the top edge of each of the two remaining battery cells. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
    • While lifting the plastic battery frame out of the way, apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the top edge of each of the two remaining battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

    Instead of this, I just went and got safety wire I have, cut about 2ft, and then tucked it under a batter cell and went back and forth, about 5 times, and it cut through the adhesive. Did that for each cell and battery came right out. I didn’t bother removing the old adhesive, no point imo and saved from any liquids in the computer.

    Rick Hulun - Ответить

  50. While lifting the plastic frame out of the way, push one corner of your plastic card underneath the outside edge of the first center battery cell. Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable. Underneath the center battery cells, a thin metal plate protects the trackpad. Pry only under the battery cell; leave the metal plate in place.
    • While lifting the plastic frame out of the way, push one corner of your plastic card underneath the outside edge of the first center battery cell.

    • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Underneath the center battery cells, a thin metal plate protects the trackpad. Pry only under the battery cell; leave the metal plate in place.

    • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

  51. Repeat the above procedure to separate the last remaining battery cell from the MacBook Pro's upper case. Repeat the above procedure to separate the last remaining battery cell from the MacBook Pro's upper case. Repeat the above procedure to separate the last remaining battery cell from the MacBook Pro's upper case.
    • Repeat the above procedure to separate the last remaining battery cell from the MacBook Pro's upper case.

  52. Lift the battery with the plastic frame and slide it back toward the MacBook Pro’s hinge until it clears the screw posts holding it to the upper case. Lift the battery with the plastic frame and slide it back toward the MacBook Pro’s hinge until it clears the screw posts holding it to the upper case.
    • Lift the battery with the plastic frame and slide it back toward the MacBook Pro’s hinge until it clears the screw posts holding it to the upper case.

  53. Lift and remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
    • Lift and remove the battery.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    Tip: when testing the battery's fit, once you have it in place and the screw holes are lined up, I made two little marks with a pen right where it tucks under the screw posts. Then once you have the adhesive backs removed, just hold the battery upright and line up with your markings, then tilt it down and tuck it under.

    Fred Anderson - Ответить

    I ran out of the acetone liquid--why not include a full bottle of the stuff, guys?

    info - Ответить

    I'll arrange to send another bottle of the Adhesive Remover Solution your way. :)

    Kadan Sharpe -

    For anyone who's wondering, you can use the solvent quite sparingly—there's more than enough for one, possibly two battery jobs in there. But it can be tough to tell how much is enough if you're doing it for the first time. Stick with about 1 ml per cell, and add a second ml if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I just replaced the battery in a 2011 15 inch MacBook pro last week. It took maybe 5 minutes and cost around $100. Now the life is over 100% because the new battery I got was actually a higher capacity than the stock battery.

    I find it actually almost criminal that Apple has progressively tried to make it harder and harder to do DIY maintenance and improvements. At this point I refuse to buy a new Mac. I have 15 apple products in my house….but they are not going to get any newer. I prefer to buy a good used mac and put new RAM or an SSD drive in it. Maybe the graphics is not quite up to par but they are good solid machines. People (maybe a smaller subset) want choice and options and preventing any DIY work is a bad move in my mind! Typing on a 2012 MacBook pro 13 inch…which is a great size. I was able to add a 1 TB SSD to it, but it has 8 GB or RAM and that is not enough….Chrome freezes constantly and you can only have a few apps open. Come on Apple! listen to your customers, not your shareholders.

    Kris Cone - Ответить

    Hi - I was told that you need to replace trackpad and a keyboard when replacing battery for this mac. Is it true? Thank you

    Dany - Ответить

    hi, after replacing the battery, all seems to work properly except the headphones jack. I can hear the sound from the internal speakers but when I plug the headphones jack sound is not output and it stills come from internal speakers. I checked again the headphone jack cable and it is properly fit on the board. I also tried resetting the SMC but problem persists. Could you please advise ? Sherif.

    Sherif Fayek - Ответить

    I want to remove the 2 center cells to get at the track pad, but it seems that plastic frame forces you to remove all the cells. Am I right? That makes the job much harder.

    joigaloid9 - Ответить

    After replacing the battery I can’t charge the battery to 100%. Maximum charging is 91%, the led at the power cable does not get green even after hours of charging.

    Even a SMC reset did not help….. Any ideas?

    hefe_killer - Ответить

    Got the same problem as hefe_killer. I reset the SMC, yet sometimes my MacBook just shuts off and when I charge it it says 1% even though it had maybe 50% or so left when it shut off. Also when it runs out of battery it immediately shuts off instead of falling asleep.

    Kevin - Ответить

    Me too :( Kevin

    robin delrez -

    Have you tried re-calibrating it?

    Derek - Ответить

    I think that in “Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.” - the “mop up part is a major understatament.

    This is by FAR the most laborious, messy, and time consuming step in the whole affair.. Of course it does not have to be done perfect but..

    Alex Miro - Ответить

    I recently replaced the battery on my MBP mid 2012 and it was working fine. I did the calibration and it seemed the battery was doing great. I was using my laptop until it hit 10% and the laptop suddenly shut down. I have tried to turn it back on using the power button but it is unresponsive. I have performed an SMC reset but it still will not turn on. How would I know if the battery is defective?

    Justin Hong - Ответить

    @justinhong93 Easiest way to check is to plug the old battery back into the board and see if that makes any difference. It’s a little tricky because obviously you don’t want to pry the old battery out until you’re sure whether it’s bad. But IIRC you can carefully set the old battery on top of the new one and plug it in. Secure it with some masking tape and carefully flip it over and turn it on. If that resolves the problem, it was probably a defective battery. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Is it really necessary to remove everything or does it just give you more room to remove the battery and the adhesive?? This seems like such a daunting task when removing the battery seems so simple.

    Cheyanne Witcher - Ответить

    I just installed the battery, it wasn’t as bad as i thought. Im anxious to make sure everything is working, can I use the laptop while its charging in its calibration state? The instructions say to charge fully and then an additional 2 hours, so does this mean (A) we can have it charging while we use it or (B) leave it powered off and charging until full, then an additional 2 hours, then we use? im confused

    Joshua Rivera - Ответить

    @joshrivera Answer (A). It’s okay to use while it’s charging.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So after double checking everything, and resetting the smc, I notice my battery status was not showing up on the menu bar. I check system preferences and the batter is at 0%. Seems like it’s not being recognized at all.

    Joshua Rivera - Ответить

    Since replacing the battery, bluetooth connection is intermittent. Any ideas as to what to recheck?

    jon - Ответить

    hi there. I replaced the battery and it did charge, but the LED on the plug did not durn orange. but now it dose not charge at all anymore. after i did the reset of the SMC but now nothing happens anymore. can anyone help?

    Roman Frauchiger - Ответить

    Hi guys, I have just replaced the battery on macbook pro retina A1398 with a 1417 battery, I have orange light on magsafe however the battery information shows not charging and to replace battery now. Can anyone one enlighten some information on to what to do next?

    I have also tried reset SMC several times I have noticed the right side IO board is not working properly.

    Thanks

    zemlo - Ответить

    Perfekt gute Anleitung! Ist wirklich einfach zum Nachmachen!!

    Many Thanks!

    MrHelipix - Ответить

    TIP: bevore putting in the new batterie, check that the batterie connector is centered, and alingned with the main board. Else you cannot nicley plug in the connector and the battery cannot be screwed in any more.

    Thank you for putting this together. I’m back again with my notebook. It took me 4 hours, and I skipped steps 5 to 34.

    derdietrich - Ответить

    ARE YOU SURE YOUR SMC RESET ACTUALLY HAPPENED?? HOW TO KNOW: I installed iFixit kit new battery 3mo ago into my mid-2012 MBP Retina with success except for a very abnormal battery discharge pattern (dropped to 77% in 1h, then to 28% in next 15min, then to auto-shutdown in next 45m). After multiple recalibrations, and after multiple attempts to reset SMC using the iFixit link to Apple instructions, nothing changed.

    This week I discovered that the Apple instructions are correct but incomplete. Here’s what finally worked for me and gives confirmation that SMC reset occurred and for me restored normal battery discharge behavior: With battery down to about 10%, shut down Mac with lid still open; connect the charging cord; do the Apple-prescribed left-side SHIFT-CONTROL-OPTION , plus POWER key; hold for ≥10 sec; release all 4 together AND WATCH THE MAG-SAFE LED CONFIRM SMC RESET BY BRIEFLY TURNING GREEN AND THEN BACK TO RED. (Not sure if 10% state of charge is needed — might just need the red charging LED.)

    Robert - Ответить

Заключение

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.

81 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Jeff Suovanen

Участник с: 06.08.2013

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sweet! Way easier than having to use a heat-gun to soften the adhesive. Definitely looking forward to using this product in future repairs.

Juan Lara - Ответить

is it necessary to remove the board? Can we just remove the battery directly?

reloadro - Ответить

Going straight for the battery will work, but the solvent will leave cosmetic damage if it touches your speakers (and maybe more than cosmetic damage if there's enough of it). It's pretty tough to get the solvent only under the battery while the speakers are still installed. Removing the logic board allows you to then remove the speakers, and at that point you have a nice clear path to the battery.

Jeff Suovanen -

Note: Early 2013 Retina Macbook Pro TRACKPAD REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS.

IFixit only has instructions for the 13” early 2013 retina trackpad, not the 15” and they are quite different. You have to remove the battery to replace the trackpad in the 15” retina.

When you remove the battery, you see a brown plate covering the trackpad and a single screw. Do not mess with the screw - that’s just the click adjustment. Simply pry off the plate with the spludger. Then you’ll see six tiny phillips silver screws - undo all of them and then push the touchpad plate out. It was pretty easy to put the new one back in. Then finally test the trackpad clickiness on the corners and middle and adjust the screw until it “feels right”

Jer - Ответить

I found something that works well loosening that glue. Cyanoacrylate UN-CURE. The stuff used to un-glue crazy glue. Readily available on line. Works very fast - <5mins. It’s somewhat scary in that - who knows what it will do if you get it on the speakers - or the motherboard, if you try to replace the battery without removing it (as I did). But the combination of the UN-CURE and a plastic spudger - and I had the battery(ies) out in about 10 mins. No ill effects. I used regular 91% Isopropyl to get the residue off the case and the plate covering the trackpad because I didn’t want to spread that UN-CURE around, wantonly. Alcohol works - but not nearly as well as UN-CURE. Probably safer.

joe - Ответить

Does the battery come charged? I’ve put the new battery in and reassembled the computer. I tried to power up the laptop but it won’t start up. Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks.

Brian T Prairie - Ответить

It is starting up but the display is not working. Any suggestions?

Brian T Prairie -

My questions now are did I mess up the display? Or the cable? Or the board the cable is connected to?

Brian T Prairie - Ответить

@briantprairie—The first and easiest thing to check is whether the display cable got reconnected properly. You can also try plugging in an external monitor—if it works, your computer is fine and there’s an issue with your built-in display connection or the display itself.

Jeff Suovanen -

I replaced my early 2013 model battery without any problem using this technique:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

I highly recommend it, as you don’t need to remove any electronics and you don’t have to use solvents. My tips are: I used cotton butcher thread instead of aluminum, and wear heavy duty gloves to avoid burning/cutting myself with the thread due to heavy pressure. As indicated in the video, start from the top of each cell, slide side ways and make your way to the bottom of the cell, it cuts the glue nice and easy (but it requires firm and steady pull). The whole operation took ~45 minutes. Ignore comments that battery cell will ignite, if you don’t puncture or pinch the cells nothing bad should happen.

lvw - Ответить

real easy with that method ! the whole process was done under 30 minutes . no solvant, no hassle.

Benoit -

The video doesn’t seem to be aware that the two center battery packs are glued, too. Was there any trouble working around the plastic frame when de-gluing these? And did you have any trouble with the track pad?

bobthrollop.redirect -

I ordered the battery including the fix kit from iFixit. But in the end i decided to also use the technique with the dental floss because it seemed safer than the method with the adhesive remover. I just performed step 1-4 of the iFixit guide and removed the batteries with the dental floss and plastic cards as shown in the video. It took me a bit more than an hour. Anyway thanks iFixit for the guide and the ordered battery also seems to work perfectly fine.

Thomas Biasion -

I did the battery replacement, but now my left side alt and tab keys don’t work. Any ideas?

davis003 - Ответить

Get tutorial!!! Tip, look though the guide, get yourself a piece of paper and write down the screw sizes or step and separate them as you take them out. Thought it wasn't going to be worth removing the board but once it was out I can see how it would have been much more difficult to apply the adhesive remover and to get the pry card under the batteries. Step 30 is missing instruction to revive the two screws off of the dc jack.

Dan Butler - Ответить

Well, I did leave the board in place, placed the mbp elevated to make sure the anti-glue did run below the battery away from the board (and foil to protect the screen). Then prying and cutting the tape with the black tool and finished the removal in 15 minutes. First tried the cutting rope method but that did not work out well. FIRST UNCHARGE THE BATTERY! Online browsergames work very well for this :) The battery (ordered via iFixit) worked immediately and was charged 72%. Somehow I think the iFixit toolbox should only contain a curved knife to cut below the battery (by turning it around in circles).

Hugo Logmans - Ответить

I highly recommend buying a MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2012-Early 2013) MagSafe 2 DC-In Board with this battery. Mine was so old and dirty that even after cleaning it, my battery would not charge. I finally took it out and cleaned the space between the center pin and the adjacent pins. My new battery is charging correctly now but I don’t think this will last forever. It would have been great to replace this part when my motherboard was out. Now, it’s gonna take me an hour just to replace this silly little part when it fails again.

bryan18 - Ответить

Everything worked perfectly, thanks for this great tutorial!

Mykhailo Opanasiuk - Ответить

Excellent tutorial-very complete. And kit was awesome-everything you need.

My only issue is many of the steps above are unnecessary if you are very careful. You really dont need to remove any parts (see Kim Pro YouTube video).

Also, touchpad backing plate is likely to come off with battery pack, no matter what you do. That’s okay-just remove it slowly and carefully once battery pack is free of laptop.

Finally, use plenty of adhesive remover, tilting top of laptop towards you and away from parts. And LET IT WORK AT LEAST 5-6 minutes (not 2-3 as instructed). Work with dental floss and prying tools.

Scott Oakley - Ответить

I recently completed this repair, after disconnecting the battery I dripped a couple drops of adhesive remover behind far right smaller cell, let sit for a min and wiggled the plastic card behind the battery came right up I just kept going without removing anything else, speakers or boards, just be careful when you get to track pad don’t pry just steady pressure and wiggle back and fourth while gently pulling up battery came right up then used razor blade to clean some of the left behind adhesive, new battery set fit right in alighted screw holes glued down plugged in put back on whole repair took less then half an hour.

dan - Ответить

I have finished this repair by using a thread and NOT removing the motherboard as described here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

. The key was to put couple of drops of adhesive remover every couple swings onto the thread. A floss was too weak, so I have used 4 intertwined floss threads . It took me almost 4 hours but I have spent almost an hour working on the first cell without using adhesive remover before I have realized my mistake. I have also spent decent amount of time cleaning the remainers of apple adhesive.

Denis Kniazhev - Ответить

705/5000

I bought the kit to replace the battery of my MBP Early 2013 because the original baterry had exceeded a thousand cycles.

The change was a success. I did not follow all the steps, I just put the solvent in the cells and remove the battery. I cleaned the computer well and put the new one that came in the kit.

Now comes the NEGATIVE part, the new battery only gives me a couple of hours of service. When it is 100% charged, it says that it has four hours, but after that it only lasts two hours working as usual, less than what the previous battery lasted.

I have reset the SMC and I have calibrated the battery twice.

What can be happening? Being new, it marks 88% of the battery's capacity. I'm disappointed with this. I spent a lot of nerves changing the battery for fear of spoiling the computer and the result is not what I expected.

Javier Prado - Ответить

I hate to say it, but that sounds like a defective battery :( If you bought it from iFixit, they’ll generally replace it no problem.

Jeff Suovanen -

After installing the replacement battery from ifixit on the 2012 Macbook Pro Retina 15inch, I get an X symbol through the battery charge icon, If i plug the power cable in the laptop runs, but as soon as I disconnect the power cable the laptop shuts off. Can you help ? I tried reseting the SMC (Cont+Option+Shift+Power for 10 Sec) but either its not reseting or the battery is defective ? Not sure what to do, I installed the replacement battery exactly as the instructions stated. Please help.

marekjavorek - Ответить

This can sometimes happen if the battery was discharged to very low levels; try leaving it plugged in for a few minutes and see if the problem goes away on its own. If not, the battery may not be connected properly—try re-seating the battery connector and make sure there’s no dust or debris in the socket. If none of that works, you most likely have a defective battery. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

Just wanted to add a comment of thanks to both the creator of this walkthrough but also the commenters above who talked about using wire/fishing line/etc. to remove the batteries. I used this method and saved a considerable amount of time and it saved me from having to disassemble the laptop.

Due to the complexity of the device and number of components, I was really concerned about being able to put everything back together exactly right. Yes, even with the walkthrough. So this gave me some considerable peace of mind.

James Candless - Ответить

outils de bonne qualité

bon tutoriel

au remontage attention à bien repositionner tous les câbles sur la carte mère avant de la serrer sinon il faudra la redémonter…(expérience vécue…)

Jean

jean - Ответить

Did the replacement yesterday evening in about 2,5h. Everything works again as expected!

Peter Trebing - Ответить

is very simple with thick fishing wire ….

stefan.zanfir - Ответить

Thanks for the well tutorial.

Replacement actually worked well. But… after finishing the replacement i opened the lid and the computer started by it self. The battery level was about 85%. I shut the computer down and charged it for 20 hours. After that, the battery level showed only 5%. After shutting down again and doing a SMC reset it showed 2%.

On the command line i did: ioreg -l -w0 , which gave me, beside other things under +-o AppleSmartBattery:

- "CellVoltage" = (3734,3767,3499,0)

- "LegacyBatteryInfo" = {"Amperage"=18446744073709549492,"Flags"=4,"Capacity"=8601,"Current"=171,"Voltage"=11131,"Cycle Count"=1}

The 0 in the list of cell voltages makes me a bit concerned. Does anybody know how many cells the “A1417” battery actually has?

The nominal Voltage of 10.95V does not really fit into my understanding of lithium ion batteries, but it seems to me 10.95V is closer to 3 cells than to 4 cells.

Btw. the notebooks runs now for half an hour or more on still 2% battery level.

Other than that, everything still seems to work fine.

mich - Ответить

@michmg Not normal. If you haven’t already, try a full calibration just to be sure—and if it doesn’t behave after that, I’d try another battery.

Jeff Suovanen -

@Jeff Thanks for the reply. I already did reach out to iFixit Europe. They suggested a similar procedure, including a SMC-Reset. After that, they suggested i should do 20 more cycles and see if the battery will become good. If not, they agree to replace it.

mich -

Removed motherboard and speakers

Used Goo-Gone applied with Pipette

Pried cells up with an old credit card

cleaned surfaces with 91% isopropyl alcohol

perfect

nnherting - Ответить

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