Meta Quest 2 Controller Joystick Replacement
Введение
Перейти к шагу 1This guide shows how to remove and replace a drifting or broken joystick (aka thumbstick) for your Meta Quest 2 controller.
If you're experiencing controller drift, or your joystick isn't responsive, you'll likely need to replace the joystick.
The joystick is nested behind the controller board, requiring you to disassemble the entire controller to access it.
This guide is written with the right controller. If you're repairing the left controller, you can still use this guide, as the procedure is identical.
Выберете то, что вам нужно
Запчасти
Инструменты
Показать больше…
-
-
Use your fingers to slide the battery cover down towards the strap end of the controller.
-
Remove the battery cover.
-
-
-
Use your fingers to grasp the wrist strap near the anchor peg.
-
Lift the wrist strap anchor peg straight out of its recess.
-
Remove the wrist strap.
-
-
-
Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the controller faceplate for a minute.
-
-
-
The controller faceplate is secured with adhesive and three friction pegs.
-
Press the edge of an opening tool into the seam between the controller faceplate and shell, near the Oculus button.
-
Slide the opening tool to the base of the ring shell to loosen the adhesive.
-
-
-
Continue prying around the entire faceplate to separate the remaining friction pegs and adhesive.
-
-
-
Use a Torx T5 driver to remove the four screws securing the controller ring shell to the controller:
-
Two 4.7 mm‑long screws
-
Two 5.9 mm‑long screws
-
-
-
Press the point of a spudger firmly against the white alignment square to release the ring shell.
-
-
-
Use your fingers to grab the end of the ring shell that doesn’t have the white alignment square.
-
Gently lift the ring shell up and away from the controller to unclip it from the controller.
-
Remove the controller ring shell.
-
-
-
Use a Torx T5 driver to remove the five screws:
-
One 11.5 mm‑long screw
-
Three 5.9 mm‑long screws
-
One 18.2 mm‑long screw
-
-
Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use tweezers and your fingers to peel the battery information label out from the battery compartment.
-
-
-
Use a Torx T5 driver to remove the four 5.9 mm‑long screws securing the side shell to the controller:
-
Three screws inside the battery compartment
-
One screw near the corner of the battery compartment
-
-
-
Pull the bottom of the side shell slightly away from the controller to loosen the shell.
-
-
-
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the controller ring and the front shell.
-
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front shell and the controller.
-
Position the spudger so that it can stay in place without you holding the tool.
-
-
-
Guide the looped part of the side shell through the screw post gap.
-
Remove the side shell.
-
-
-
Spread the screw post wide enough to loop the side shell back around it.
-
Be careful not to pinch the antenna cable or the tracking flex cable as you reposition the side shell.
-
-
-
Use a spudger or an opening pick to gently pry the shell from the battery compartment side first.
-
Once it pops open, turn the controller over to remove the front shell.
-
-
-
Grasp the front shell near the bottom of the controller.
-
Lift and pull the bottom edge of the front shell outwards slightly to clear the plastic alignment peg.
-
-
-
Use a driver bit (such as the Torx T5) or the point of a spudger to push the front trigger pin out from the side shown. Pushing from the opposite side can cause the pin to rip the sensor cable.
-
-
Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
-
Hold the front trigger with your finger to prevent the trigger from flying out.
-
Use tweezers or your fingers to pull the trigger pin out.
-
-
Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use a clean fingernail or tweezers to flip up the ZIF socket's lock bar securing the outer tracking flex cable.
-
-
-
Use tweezers to grasp the outer tracking flex cable by its pull tab and pull it out of its ZIF socket.
-
-
-
Use the same procedure to unlock and disconnect the inner tracking flex cable from its ZIF socket.
-
-
-
Use a clean fingernail or tweezers to unlock and disconnect the joystick flex cable from its ZIF socket.
-
-
-
Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers under the metal neck of the antenna cable.
-
Pry straight up to disconnect the antenna from the controller board.
-
Gently pull the antenna to unclip it from its grounding clip.
-
-
-
Use a clean fingernail or tweezers to unlock and disconnect the interconnect flex cable from its ZIF socket.
-
-
-
Use your fingers to twist the battery shell slightly so that its edge near the thumbstick clicks out of place.
-
-
-
Gently wiggle the battery shell as you pull it away from the controller.
-
Remove the battery shell.
-
-
-
Use a Torx T5 driver to remove the four 7.5 mm‑long screws securing the controller board.
-
-
-
Use your fingers to lift the controller board out of the shell and remove it.
-
-
Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
-
Use your fingers or tweezers to remove the joystick.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
23 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
6 Комментариев
When replacing the joystick, make sure you place the metal cover on the right side, the joystick goes under the circuit board, and make sure the little metal flap is bent enough, also make sure the screws are tight.
id recommend this video so you get more what i mean, although it doesn't show exactly that i mean.
https://youtu.be/kQ2-XYEbOKY?t=98
otherwise you wont have the touch pad on the joystick, it'll still work good, just no sensing if you have your finger on it
You dont need to remove the pin/take of the tigger, if youre carful and paitent
id say its safer to leave it in
Can confirm. I looked at this guide before looking at any videos (all of which do not take the trigger out) and I must have bent the pin/spring when putting it back in because my trigger won't go back up now. I also broke the front shell alignment peg when going back to try to try again. Please update this guide so this doesn't happen to anyone else.
thank you for the guide, i am yet to do it, why is the anolog the first last thing to come out when they are notorious to breaking
Nooooo! I did everything perfectly but once I reached step 11 going backward for re-assembly I read the first two bullet points and for some stupid reason assumed it was going in Longest --> shortest screw length, Ughhh was rushing through it thinking this was the easy part!
I stupidly tried the 18mm in the 11mm and it broke off, no chance of ever removing that...
Put everything back together anyway and it works quite well even with those both missing, only issue is the buttons sit a little lower then normal and the touch sensitivity is not perfect for light touching. This is not used in any games I play so I'll likely leave it as is for now. Still infinitely better than with drift but that is annoying.
Anyway, the guide is extremely good, just don't be like me and read the instructions carefully and you will be fine. I Actually started off with a video teardown and then switched to this as this was more clear.
