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Введение

Follow this guide to replace a damaged or faulty digitizer on the Nintendo Switch game console.

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

Note: If the screen stopped working, you may just need to replace the LCD panel, rather than the digitizer.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.

You can complete this repair without removing the heat sink and the game card reader, but it makes disconnecting and reconnecting the LCD panel ribbon cable much more difficult. Keep this in mind when you perform this repair.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: step 1, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: step 1, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: step 1, image 3 of 3
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: step 2, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: step 2, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday - Ответить

    I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

    Joe -

    My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

    nin10doh - Ответить

    I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

    Banjomanperson - Ответить

    I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

    Pifase -

  3. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the top and bottom screws: step 4, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the top and bottom screws: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Ответить

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Ответить

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner - Ответить

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday - Ответить

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz - Ответить

    My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

    Jaxon Lee - Ответить

    this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

    Richard Aguirre - Ответить

    PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

    Shawn Spivey - Ответить

    One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

    Florian Kraupa - Ответить

    Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

    Jason Lane - Ответить

  4. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Ответить

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Ответить

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Ответить

    One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

    Nick - Ответить

  5. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

  7. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Ответить

    This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

    Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    David - Ответить

  8. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the microSD card reader: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

  9. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

    Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

    if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

    holmzee - Ответить

    Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

    Jonathan Stachewicz -

    Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

    Bill Little - Ответить

    Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

    Mike Snow - Ответить

    I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

    Katherine Harrison - Ответить

    Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

    William Scott - Ответить

    The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

    The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

    Matthias_ Links - Ответить

    I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

    Wes Stephenson - Ответить

    My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

    Nate Topical - Ответить

    Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

    I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

    Wende David - Ответить

    Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

    Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

    I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

    Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - Ответить

    Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

    cravenkeo khamone - Ответить

    Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

    Elia Veschi - Ответить

    Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

    Robert Morvai - Ответить

    Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

    I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

    J.R. Wood - Ответить

    This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

    Kris Morey - Ответить

    For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

    I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

    Yakarot Sennin - Ответить

    Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

    Rob M - Ответить

    When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

    Jason Lane - Ответить

  10. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the shield plate: step 11, image 1 of 1
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

    Draque Thompson - Ответить

    Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

    nin10doh -

  11. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 12, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - Ответить

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

    My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

    Christoph -

  12. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Ответить

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Ответить

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Ответить

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally - Ответить

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

    Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

    Philip W - Ответить

    As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

    lievjorg - Ответить

  13. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Disconnect the battery: step 14, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Disconnect the battery: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

    Nathan McKenna - Ответить

  14. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the heat sink: step 15, image 1 of 1
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

    • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

    • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

    spudger technique is perfect.

    Jaxon Lee - Ответить

    For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

    nin10doh - Ответить

    Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

    Trae Block - Ответить

  15. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 17, image 3 of 3
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Ответить

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - Ответить

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - Ответить

    They may sell it in the ifixit store.

    Joshua Graham -

    (1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

    (2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

    Travis - Ответить

    UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

    1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

    2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

    Good luck!

    Travis -

    you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

    just clean it afterwards

    Richard Aguirre -

    K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

    Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

    Cerus98 -

    i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

    Richard Aguirre - Ответить

  16. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the headphone jack and game card reader: step 18, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Remove the headphone jack and game card reader: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

    This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!

    Kar Wai Chan - Ответить

    The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.

    Loris Hofer -

  17. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

    The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

    Nick Wagner - Ответить

    It was not clear form the picture, but you need to pull sideways out toward the edge of the Switch where the JoyCon attaches, not up away from the motherboard.

    Benjamin Fritz - Ответить

    Thanks for the feedback! I’ll adjust the wording to reflect this.

    Arthur Shi -

    This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

    Ian Wilson - Ответить

    DONT DO THIS!! Just leave this long ribbon and fold it like a book. DO NOT DETACH IT. My touchscreen and gamecard reader are broken now because in the reverse i never managed to fix it properly i have done it like 20x times, headphone jack works. I cant play physical copies anymore on this switch and no touchscreen. Thanks for nothing ><!

    Kar Wai Chan - Ответить

  18. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

  19. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 1
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

  20. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

  21. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

  22. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Screen: step 24, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Screen: step 24, image 2 of 2
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  23. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    I’ve torn a few ribbon cables in my time. Use your tweezers to nudge the tabs on either side of the ribbon cable and “walk” the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector - slowly!! This should help prevent any tears in the ribbon cable when using tweezers.

    nin10doh - Ответить

  24. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 2
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  25. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  26. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:

    1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).

    2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.

    nin10doh - Ответить

    3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.

    4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.

    5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.

    6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.

    7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.

    nin10doh - Ответить

    8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.

    9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.

    10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.

    Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.

    nin10doh - Ответить

  27. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 29, image 3 of 3
    • Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.

    • Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.

    Used a heat gun at 3/4 power for TWO 2-min bursts. The remainder of the sides each took a single 2-min burst.

    Jaxon Lee - Ответить

  28. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 30, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

  29. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 31, image 3 of 3
    • Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.

    • Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.

    • Leave the opening pick inserted.

  30. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  31. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 33, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

  32. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 34, image 2 of 2
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

    make sure to follow exactly which side it says to do... i just sliced straight through the digitizer cable doing this ^^" whoops

    qu in n - Ответить

  33. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  34. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 36, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 36, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 36, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  35. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 37, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 37, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 37, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  36. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 38, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 38, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 38, image 3 of 3
    • Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.

    • Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

    My digitizer separated from the lcd screen during this step. Wasn’t a problem. Just something to be aware of

    Jaxon Lee - Ответить

  37. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 39, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 39, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 39, image 3 of 3
    • Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.

    • Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.

    • You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.

    What kind of glue is required to re-assembly the screen?

    Deedend 77 - Ответить

    only thing missing. I am scraping the old adhesive off and trying to re-use

    Jaxon Lee -

    UPDATE: So, I was able to peel off the re-apply the old adhesive. It seems pretty secure, but we’ll see. Otherwise, this step needs an additional detail about what type of adhesive would be ideal to finish this.

    Jaxon Lee - Ответить

    Hi Jaxon!

    Thanks for the suggestion! I added an extra bullet for the adhesive.

    Arthur Shi -

  38. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Separate the LCD panel and digitizer: step 40, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the top edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive holding the LCD panel to the digitizer.

  39. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 41, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 41, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 41, image 3 of 3
    • Turn the screen assembly over.

    • Insert an opening pick in between the LCD panel and the digitizer at the top-left corner.

    • It doesn't matter how deep you insert the opening pick, but about 5 mm is enough to slice through all the adhesive.

    • You can slightly bend the digitizer to create a wider gap, but take care not to bend it too far to cause damage to the digitizer if you're reusing it.

    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

  40. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 42, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 42, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 42, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  41. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 43, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the left edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  42. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 44, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 44, image 2 of 2
    • Insert and slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

  43. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 45, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 45, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 45, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the screen assembly to slice the adhesive.

  44. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 46, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the bottom edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  45. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 47, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 47, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 47, image 3 of 3
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

  46. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 48, image 1 of 1
    • Heat the right edge of the screen assembly for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  47. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 49, image 1 of 2 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 49, image 2 of 2
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger in between the LCD panel and the digitizer along the left edge of the screen assembly.

    • Carefully and slowly lift up the left side of the LCD panel, opening it like a book.

  48. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 50, image 1 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 50, image 2 of 3 Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement: step 50, image 3 of 3
    • Continue lifting the LCD panel away from the digitizer to separate the two components.

    • The LCD ribbon cable is slightly adhered to the digitizer. If it doesn't remove easily, apply more heat to that area and try again.

  49. Nintendo Switch Digitizer Replacement, Digitizer: step 51, image 1 of 1
Заключение

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

If your new digitizer doesn’t work properly after you boot up the device, turn it back off and disconnect and reconnect the battery connector.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Answers community for help.

14 участников успешно повторили данное руководство.

Craig Lloyd

Участник с: 10.02.2016

27 099 Репутация

Автор 82 руководств

5 Comments

Are Digitizers from original models (HAC-001) and revision models (HAC-001-(01)) compatible?

I don’t mean switch lite but the revision with the longer lasting battery.

GBG HNM - Ответить

Yes, the digitizer is compatible with both models!

Craig Lloyd -

The ribbon cable for the digitizer is too short and cannot plug in to the connecter on the game card reader. Any ideas what the issue could be? im using a custom housing for it

Daniel - Ответить

there should be a slit on the front housing where the ribbon cable goes straight through to the back. pay attention at where it comes out of on step 39

Ricardo Ortega -

Ive tried replacing the digitizer twice, both were successful but when i took the first one off to replace it i snagged the digitizer cord and figured nothing of it as new digitizers have new cables. But upon implementing a new digitizer and reassembling there was ghost touching (input as if someone was using the touch screen when no one was touching it) the digitizers i previously got were from a sketchy amazon company and both suffered from ghost touching. Was it caused by me snagging the cord? I didnt tear the original cord and didnt yank it hard enough to cause any damage but i have trouble blaming it on the sketchy digitizers as they were both scratched and such but both did it. Seemed too coincidental to be two bad digitizers. Anyone have any thoughts?

Ethan Smith - Ответить

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