Введение
Use this guide to remove or replace the front shell (front cover) on a Steam Deck LCD.
Remember: follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing your device.
This procedure involves almost a complete disassembly, including removing the display! Know what you're getting yourself into. You'll need replacement adhesives for the display and speakers.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:
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Four coarse thread 9.5 mm-long screws
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Four fine thread 5.8 mm-long screws
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Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.
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Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.
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Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.
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Remove the back cover.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:
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One 3.4 mm screw
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Two 3.7 mm screws
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Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.
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Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's left clip.
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Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the left trigger bracket.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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If any connectors are covered with tape, use a pair of tweezers to remove it.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
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Disconnect the D-pad cable.
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Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
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Disconnect the touchpad cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.
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Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the left button board:
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Three 5.2 mm screws
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One 3.9 mm screw
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad board.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.
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From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the left touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.
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Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.
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Remove the touchpad.
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Place the flat end of a spudger onto the inside edge of the trigger's right clip.
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Pivot the trigger clip out, away, and up from the peg to unlatch it.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the right trigger bracket.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the thumbstick cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 5.2 mm screws securing the thumbstick.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the button board interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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If any connectors are covered with tape, use a pair of tweezers to remove it.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flaps on the rest of the button board ZIF connectors. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cables out of their connectors:
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Disconnect the action buttons cable.
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Disconnect the touchpad board cable.
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Disconnect the touchpad cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the haptics cable to disconnect it.
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Use a Phillips driver to disconnect the four screws securing the right button board:
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Three 5.2 mm screws
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One 3.9 mm screw
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad board.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 4.7 mm screws securing the touchpad.
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From the front of the Steam Deck, use your finger to push the right touchpad partway through the front shell to unseat it.
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Lift the touchpad out from underneath the overhanging section of the midframe.
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Remove the touchpad.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button membrane.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the quick access button.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Steam button membrane.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.
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Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the sticker from the top edge of the fan.
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Use a Phillips driver to loosen and remove the two screws securing the heatsink to the motherboard:
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One captive 3.5 mm screw
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One 3.4 mm screw
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the fan connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the fan.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the edges of the speaker connector and pull up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up and remove the Wi-Fi shield tape.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the antenna connector close to its base.
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Pull straight up to disconnect the cable.
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Repeat for the second antenna cable.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the audio cable's ZIF connector.
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Carefully peel the audio cable off of the battery.
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If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the audio cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the three 3.7 mm screws securing the motherboard.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up on the mic cable's white locking tab.
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Use a pair of tweezers to pull the mic cable up and out of its connector.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 3.7 mm screws securing the audio board.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the audio board by the headphone jack.
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Pivot the board up and out of its recess to remove it.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape bundling the speaker wire to the Wi-Fi antenna cables.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the various strips of black tape routing the speaker wire along the bottom edge of the chassis.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the right speaker and the frame.
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Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the left speaker and the frame.
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Pivot the spudger up to separate the speaker from the light adhesive securing it against the front shell.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the sticker covering the display connector.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the small locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the cable out of its connector.
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Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for one minute.
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Apply a suction cup to the top left corner of the display by pressing down on it to create suction, as close to the edge as possible.
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Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the display and the frame.
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Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
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Slide the opening pick no more than 3 mm deep across the top edge to slice the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick down the right edge to slice the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick across the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
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Heat the left edge of the display for one minute.
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Slide the opening pick across the left edge to slice the adhesive.
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Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the display, carefully lift the right edge up, opening it like a book.
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Remove the display.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the left bumper assembly.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 5.2 mm screws securing the right bumper assembly.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the action buttons membrane.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the four action buttons, A, B, X, and Y.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the six 2.3 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell, located on the front side.
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Use a Phillips driver to remove the four 5.2 mm screws securing the midframe to the front shell.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the volume buttons up and out of its plastic clip.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the volume buttons by pulling them up and away from the front shell.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the right of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift the rubber flap to the left of the power button up and out of its plastic clip.
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Remove the power button.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the left end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.
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If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right end of the mic cable and pry upwards to peel it up from the front shell.
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If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the cable. Lightly heat the mic cable using an iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
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Remove the mic cable from the front shell.
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Only the front shell remains.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified re