iPad 6 Wi-Fi Battery Replacement
Введение
Перейти к шагу 1Follow this guide to replace the battery in an iPad 6 Wi-Fi.
If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage to the logic board. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
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Этот комплект содержит все детали и инструменты, используемые в руководстве.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
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While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:
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Front camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next step.
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Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
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Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.
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Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.
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Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.
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Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
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Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.
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Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.
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Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.
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Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.
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Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.
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Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.
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Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.
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Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
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Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.
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Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.
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While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. There may be glue around the screw holes that needs to be cut with a knife.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
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Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
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Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
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Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Polyimide Tape$9.99
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Insert a spudger under the antenna cable closest to the edge of the iPad and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
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There are two large pieces of tape wrapped around the right antenna cable, securing it to the rear case.
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Peel the tape up from the rear case.
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Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
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Slide the pick toward the home button to cut the adhesive.
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Push the bracket away from the speaker until it clears the tape underneath.
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Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the right antenna:
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One 2.3 mm screw
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Two 1.4 mm screws
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
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Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.
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Insert a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift upward to disconnect the antenna cable connector.
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There are five pieces of tape wrapped around the left antenna cable covering the right speaker cable connector.
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Peel the tape up from the rear case.
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Fold the antenna cable out of the way.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
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Slide the speaker cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
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Insert a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger in the groove in the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case.
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Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case.
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Use a spudger to help pull the speaker out from under the edge of the rear case.
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Remove the right speaker from the iPad.
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Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the upper component cable bracket.
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There are two remaining pieces of tape securing the left antenna cable to the rear case.
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Peel the tape up from the rear case.
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Carefully insert an opening pick between the speaker enclosure and the antenna cable bracket.
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Slide the pick toward the home button to cut the adhesive.
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Push the bracket away from the speaker until it is clear of the tape underneath.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the antenna and the speaker assembly.
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Slide the spudger toward the home button to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector.
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Gently fold the left speaker ribbon cable up so that it will clear the battery when you slide the speaker enclosure out.
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Insert a fingernail or the flat end of a spudger in the groove in the speaker housing, near the corner of the rear case.
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Pull the speaker down, away from the corner of the case.
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Use a spudger to help pull the speaker out from under the edge of the rear case.
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Remove the left speaker from the iPad.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from the logic board.
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Fold the front-facing camera cable out of the way.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector from the logic board.
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Fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack connector from the logic board.
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Fold the headphone jack cable out of the way.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from the logic board.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.
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The adhesive is in the form of six pieces of black foam tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.
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Place a heated iOpener over the rear-facing camera end of the iPad, and let it sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive through the rear case.
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Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery.
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Slide the pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop at the bend in the logic board.
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Slide an opening pick under the logic board from the front-facing camera to the rear facing camera.
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Insert an opening pick under the Lightning cable where it meets the logic board.
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Slide the pick down and around the bend in the cable.
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Continue to slide the opening pick under the cable, stopping before the cable bends to the Lightning connector.
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Finally, slide the opening pick between the battery and the Lightning connector itself to separate the last of the adhesive underneath the cable.
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Place a heated iOpener on the left side of the rear case, where the logic board is adhered.
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Insert a plastic opening tool in the rectangular gap in the upper area of the logic board, and pry the logic board up from the rear case.
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While keeping the opening tool underneath the logic board, slide it down the length of the gap to free the upper end of the logic board from the adhesive.
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Pry up the logic board at the lower edge of the rectangular gap, near the EMI shield.
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Slide an opening pick under the logic board between it and the battery.
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Slide the pick from the base to the center of the logic board to cut the adhesive.
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Slide the pick up the length of the logic board.
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Once the adhesive has been cut, pry the battery side of the logic board upward off of the rear case.
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Continue to lift the logic board along the edge nearest the battery, until you can get an opening pick against the far edge of the logic board.
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Cut any adhesive holding the outer edge of the logic board to the rear case.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:iFixit Adhesive Remover$19.99
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Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds.
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Place the heated iOpener in the center of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
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Move the iOpener to the right (away from the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
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Finally, move the iOpener to the right-hand edge of the iPad for 90 seconds.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Insert a plastic card under the lower battery cell, at the lower right-hand corner.
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With the card roughly halfway inserted, slide it toward the top of the iPad, stopping before the battery contact post.
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Lift the card up from the rear case slightly to allow it to pass over the battery contact mounting post.
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Slide the card from the center of the battery cells to the upper right corner of the battery.
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Place a second plastic card about halfway under the left hand battery cell to prevent it from readhering when you reapply the iOpener.
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Place an iOpener on the right side of the battery, opposite the cards, to loosen the adhesive.
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Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.
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Place the plastic card underneath the lower left corner of the battery.
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Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.
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Place the plastic card underneath the upper left corner of the battery.
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Grip both cards firmly and twist them to lift the battery off of the rear case.
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Remove the battery from the rear case.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Отменить: Я не выполнил это руководство.
46 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
12 Комментариев
analyzing the structure of the arrangement of the components, is it necessary to remove everything? I think you could only remove the battery without removing the logic card.
Hi Vik,
While it may not be necessary to remove the logic board to remove the battery, we found that it is the safest option. Removing the logic board first allows you to pry the battery around all the edges while keeping the bending to a minimum.
Thanks for a great guide! I left out steps 47 to 100 as some suggested and it worked fine for just replacing the battery. I was aware that the issue may be the bending of the battery and, therefore, iFixit does not recommend skipping these steps. However it worked fine for me. My tip is to allow yourself enough time to loosen the battery from the adhesive and keep the heated iOpener always underneath the section of the battery that you are working on. This way the adhesive softens and allows you to loosen the battery step by step. - It took me 3 hours of which the first hour was trying to figure out how to get Step 9 done. It took me a while to have the iOpener at the right temperature. So, be patient.
The guide worked perfectly, thanks! But now there is an issue with the battery after reassembling. The iPad can‘t be charged and it turns itself off every 5min.
Any ideas?
