Введение
Follow the steps in this guide to replace the logic board in an iPad Air LTE. Note that replacing the logic board will result in losing all your data, as well as Touch ID functionality.
Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.
Warning: the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated, and may result in irreversible damage to the battery pins of the logic board, effectively destroying it. If you choose to isolate the battery this way, heed all warnings and work extremely carefully. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except only when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Front-facing camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
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Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.
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Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.
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Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.
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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.
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Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
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Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
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Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
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If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.
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Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
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Skip the next two steps.
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
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Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.
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Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
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With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.
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On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the glass panel like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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Remove the four Phillips screws securing the LCD:
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Three 4.0 mm screws
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One 4.8 mm screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.
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Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Leave the blocker there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.
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Remove any tape covering the home button ribbon cable connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward.
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Carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Polyimide Tape$9.99
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit panels come with the proper insulation, and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to peel and remove the piece of tape covering the SIM board cable connector on the logic board.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the SIM board cable connector.
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Slide the SIM board cable straight out of its ZIF connector.
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Remove the following screws securing the upper component cable bracket:
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Two 2.0 mm Phillips screws
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Three 1.4 mm Phillips screws
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to start peeling back the tape securing the upper component cable bracket.
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Slowly peel the upper component cable bracket up out of the iPad—leaving the tape pieces on the bracket to make it easier to reinstall.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Slide an opening pick underneath the front-facing camera cable to break up the adhesive holding it in place.
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Push the camera cable up with a spudger to reveal a second ribbon cable connector underneath.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently disconnect the headphone jack ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Again, carefully push this second ribbon cable aside to reveal more connectors underneath.
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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the pointed tip of the spudger to disconnect the GPS antenna cable, directly to the right of the microphone cable connector.
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Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the antenna interconnect cable by lifting it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the primary cellular antenna connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw securing the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently fold the primary cellular antenna interconnect cable bracket up and out of the way.
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Remove the piece of black tape covering the upper button assembly cable connector.
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Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the upper button assembly cable connector.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers to carefully pull the upper button assembly ribbon cable straight out of its connector.
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Disconnect the left and right Wi-Fi antenna cables by lifting them straight up from their sockets on the lower end of the logic board.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the tape securing the right Wi-Fi antenna cable near the SIM board.
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Repeat the previous step to peel up a second piece of tape directly underneath, securing the left Wi-Fi antenna cable.
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If you accidentally peeled up both pieces of tape together, carefully peel them apart and separate them before proceeding to the next step.
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Four additional pieces of tape secure the left Wi-Fi antenna near the lower edge of the iPad.
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Peel the tape up from the rear case.
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Fold the antenna cable out of the way.
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Instead, grip the tape just under the speaker and peel it down, away from the edge of the case.
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Continue peeling up the tape away until there is enough slack in the left speaker cable to disconnect it.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left speaker cable connector.
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Disconnect the left speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right speaker cable connector.
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Disconnect the right speaker cable by pulling it straight out of its socket.
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Remove the two 3.3 mm Phillips screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case.
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The adhesive is in the form of seven strips of black tape—refer to this step as you work at heating and prying to keep track of where each piece is located.
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Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the bottom edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive securing the Lightning port ribbon cable to the rear case.
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Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften, then move on to the next step.
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Slide the flat end of a spudger under the Lightning connector cable to break up the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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If necessary, push the left speaker cable gently aside to provide access to the Lightning connector cable.
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Lay a warm iOpener over the upper edge of the iPad and let it sit for a couple minutes to soften the adhesive holding the logic board in place.
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Carefully insert an opening pick under the logic board, between the front-facing camera and the battery.
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Slide the guitar pick toward the front-facing camera connector, and stop at the bend in the logic board.
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Reheat your iOpener and lay it lengthways on the rear case, directly over the logic board.
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Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften, then remove the iOpener and move on to the next step.
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Insert an opening pick underneath the logic board at the corner of the large EMI shield.
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Slide the pick upwards until you reach the battery connector to break up the adhesive holding the logic board in place.
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Инструмент, используемый на этом этапе:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Remove the battery isolation pick.
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Insert a plastic card underneath the logic board at the battery connector.
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Slide the card all the way underneath the logic board, separating the adhesive along the outer edge.
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Insert a plastic card underneath the lower end of the logic board, directly underneath the display connectors and Wi-Fi module.
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Gently lift up on the logic board from its lower edge and remove the logic board.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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23 человек успешно провели ремонт по этому руководству.
4 Комментариев
Hey Evan just wanted to pass along a quick thank you! You rock man!
Is this the same procedure for the 2017 MacBook pro 15” ?
Download Temple Run 2 new version.
Is it possible to replace the logic board from ipad air 2 with no 3g to ipad air 2 with 3g?
Excellent quidance !
