gazza667

In case anyone else has had this issue. I found clearing the system partition cache helped. The system partition cache temporarily stores system data. It allows the system to access apps quickly and efficiently, but sometimes things can become corrupt over time. I found my Tab kept freezing on the Samsung screen when i turned it on. Clearing the system cache sorted my problem out. Below is how to do this. With your Tab 2 powered off. Press & hold the Volume ‘UP’ Button & then press & hold the Power button. As soon as you feel the Tab vibrate. Release the power button but continue holding the volume ‘UP’ button until the green Android Robot shows on the display. Then release the volume ‘UP’ button. You will then see the Android Recovery Options. To use these you will need to press the volume up/down buttons to highlight the section you want & then use the power button to select the required option. The option you want to use is the “wipe cache partition” option. Once you have highlighted it, press the power...

When you say you put a new recoil on do you mean a brand new one or a used one? I ask because if it is used then the cord may not be long enough. If so then you will need a longer chord. I usually fit a 3ft long cord to a GX360 engine. Because i can get a decent pull to it. It should give you around 3 revolutions of the crank on a normal pull, which should be plenty to start the engine. If it is a new recoil then it maybe the recoil spring inside has been allowed to unwind a turn or two. Or even been over tightened when the cord was installed. You will need to change the cord. See parts list attached for each item. Remove the recoil assembly (no/1) from the engine & cut the old cord off. Make sure the recoil spring (no/6) is fully unwound before threading the new cord in. You will need to remove the cover plate & bolt (no/11 & 8) on the recoil pulley (no/3) to be able to thread the cord in to the guide hole. Then knot the cord on the excess end that went through the plastic pulley. Making sure the knot is...

I don’t know if you managed to sort your problem out but if not then here’s a few things to look out for. If your stereo is DAB then try an FM or an AM channel & see if you get any static sound from the speakers. ie not tuned in correctly. If you don’t, then go through all of the audio settings on the stereo & make sure it is not in ‘MUTE’ or the Auto Volume is not set too low. Also check the Balance & Fader settings. Try adjusting the Fader to the front speakers only & see if that makes any difference. If not then try the rear speakers via the fader. It maybe someone has wired the speakers up incorrectly via the Fader settings. Sometimes the radio works separately to an AUX input or CD player. Because you said you get sound from the CD & the Aux input, i would say 100% it was something to do with the radio’s audio settings. Hope this helps. Gazza

Hi. I don’t know if you managed to sort this problem out but if not then i can tell you that it is possible to replace the battery holder. But….. & this is a BIG but. If you are confident enough exploring in to the camera & you can solder, then you could repair it. I had a similar problem with my sons S9600 a couple of years ago. So i ended up stripping the camera down & found it wasn’t that difficult to get to the battery holder. If you can do that then you can make your own connectors with something from an old battery operated device. Obviously it would need to be scrap so you can use the contacts but as long as the battery configuration is similar, it is possible to modify the contacts to fit your S9500. A little hot glue & a soldering iron should do. You may have to remove some of your battery holder plastic to get the contacts to fit & then secure them with hot glue. You will then need to solder the wires from your pcb to the replacement contacts. My ‘Go To’ bible for almost any kind of service...

Ive just done a Galaxy Tab 3 digitizer & LCD replacement. I used a hot water bottle 1/3 filled with fresh boiling water. The reason for it only being 1/3 filled was - if you put too much water in the hot water bottle it almost turns in to an oval shape. So you have less of the bottle touching the surface of the screen. With 1/3 the surface of the bottle remains quite flat, so all of the areas of the screen become heated, softening the glue enough to get a scalpel or other thin sharp object in. Once the digitizer was off it was just a matter of making sure all the peripherals & ribbon cables were disconnected from the logic board. Then place the exposed lcd side of the frame back on to a refilled 1/3 full hot water bottle. I found a small amount of adhesive holding the LCD to the inner frame. Once warmed up enough i then gently pressed the lcd from the inside part of the frame until the complete LCD just popped out. Installing the LCD & Digitizer was the same but in reverse. Once i was sure all the glass &...

To add one more point - Always try to get a genuine OEM digitizer. Because there have been quite a few instances where a non genuine digitizer is rendered completely useless after a software update. :-)

See my reply below. There isn’t one.

Gazza

I can vouch that there is NO CMOS battery on this laptop. I now own one from a friend who had it condemned by another ‘repair tech’. It turned out that the display connector was not secured properly. Anyway, having stripped it down completely, i decided to replace the CMOS battery before putting it back together & there isn’t one. On the underside of the board is an area with white plastic in the shape of a button battery. On reassembly i noticed the CMOS had lost the clock memory. Which i put down to disconnecting the battery. It must be powered when the battery is connected & not separately.

Gazza

I used your guide when i repaired my mates X553. I found it quite easy. So thanks for the heads up on what to look out for :-)

The battery i removed yesterday had way more adhesive on the under side than in the above pic. I ended up having to get the old battery fairly warm before the adhesive would release. A tip if you are doing this is to use an old credit card cut in to narrow strips and insert them in to the gap where the adhesive release. That way the battery shouldn’t re-stick before you remove it.

The NFC Antenna is delicate. If you are just replacing the batter then i had to use a bit of heat to soften the adhesive before gently peeling it away from the battery. The adhesive is quite stubborn.

If you do not have any picks, You can also adapt an old credit or utility card by cutting it in to thirds. Then with some fine emery or sand paper, rub a sharp point on the one edge of the card. This will help you get access to the clips that hold the rear cover on. The one i did yesterday had quite a lot of adhesive around the edge & around the finger print sensor. Another tip with an old credit card is to cut it in to narrow strips to insert in to where you have separated the cover from the frame to stop it getting stuck to the adhesive again.

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

Once getting to the corner of the bezel i left the plectrum in place & used another to continue my run. I did this up until the next corner & repeated the reheating & using another plectrum until there were 3 in each corner. When i put the 4th plectrum under the glass i returned the N& back to the Hot Water Bottle & then released the Digitizer cable & the LCD cable from their respective connectors. While the N7 was still warming i then gently separated the charging cable from the adhesive that was on the underside of the LCD.

I did have to refill the Hot Water Bottle once, so's to keep the temp high. Then i turned the bezel & screen over & used a medium sized sucker to gently pull the loosened screen from the bezel. Keeping an eye on the ribbon cables so they didn't snag as the lot came away. The only trouble i had was the lower part of the screen assembly required a little coaxing with my scalpel due to the thickness of the adhesive there. But everything came away easily.

I'd just like to comment on a slightly different way i have done this digitizer replacement. I managed to remove the digitizer & LCD without actually undoing a single screw from the frame. I did it with the help of a normal, every day, rubber HOT WATER BOTTLE. I filled the Hot Water Bottle 1/3rd full of boiling water & sat the N7 on a sheet of polystyrene packaging. The kind your replacement digitizer is sent in. I then placed the Hot Water Bottle on top of the glass of the N7 & left it for around 15 minutes. Once the heat had transferred through the glass & the frame, i then gently lifted the glass with one of the triangle plectrums & very gently slid it around the joint between the digitizer & the bezel. When i came to a section that was difficult to separate i left the plectrum in place & returned the N7 to the Hot Water Bottle for a few minutes to reheat the adhesive. Then tried to move the plectrum again.