DualSense Controller V1 Repair

Released alongside the PlayStation 5, the DualSense controller was designed as the successor to the DualShock 4 used with the PlayStation 4.

This controller can be identified by its unique design compared to the last generation, and the use of USB-C instead of MicroUSB as the primary ways to quickly identify the controller.

Other identifying marks include the FCC ID (AK8CFIZCT1) and IC ID (409B-CFIZCT1). IMPORTANT: CFI-ZCT1WA models use a similar FCC ID but add an A at the end.

Although all regular DualSense controllers use the same model number (CFI-ZCT1W), Sony often updates the controller's internals. Repair procedures vary between models.

To tell what version DualSense controller you have without disassembly, find the serial number printed on the back. It's usually 17 characters long and starts a letter, like E, F, or G. The second digit in the serial number is the version number, 1–5 correlating to V1–V5. For example, if the second digit is a 1, your controller is a V1.

Alternatively, scanning the QR code on the controller's back will return the same serial number—and the second digit is the version number. On iPhones, you may need a 3rd party QR code scanner application.

Internally, the versions correspond to motherboard models, namely BDM-010, BDM-020, BDM-030, BDM-040, and BDM-050.

After reports of joystick “drift” in PS5 DualSense controllers, an iFixit investigation revealed the cause.

This is currently in testing. IMPORTANT: DS4Windows 2.1.17 or newer is REQUIRED. At this time, the DualSense is not compatible with InputMapper like the older DualShock 4 controller.

• USB-C

It is possible to connect the controller to a PC over a wire with a USB-C cable. Make sure the cable is reasonably long and USB-IF certified if you go this route. Your cable range will be limited by your cable and the USB-C specification.

• Bluetooth

If you need to go beyond the USB-C specifications, Bluetooth is supported on these controllers.

CAUTION: Bluetooth performance is dependent on what chipset your receiver uses, or chipset used by your computer (often integrated into the wireless card, especially on somewhat recent computers). While most Bluetooth chipsets are reasonably compatible with this controller outside of the nonstandard items like the trackpad, some chipsets can be troublesome, primarily chipsets like Broadcom. As long as your laptop has a quality wireless card (or one can be installed, like an Intel/QCA ath10k based card), this can usually be remedied without use of an external adapter.
If you cannot change your card easily (or do not want to open your computer), a USB “CSR 4.X” adapter (that is verified to be compliant with the CSR specification) can also be used.